Daniel Ackerman

pollinator
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since Oct 05, 2018
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Lehigh Valley, PA zone 6b
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Recent posts by Daniel Ackerman

I'm afraid I have to respectfully disagree with folks that say that these worms improve the soil. This is both my anecdotal experience and what forest ecologists are saying. The latter is easily researched using google scholar or even watching academic presentations on youtube, so I'll focus on my and my friends' experiences. Using permaculture principles, I spent 6 years improving the soil from lawn to garden on my 1/3 acre, and it was developing beautiful tilth and stuff was happy. These worms came in about two years ago and destroyed it in less than one. For example, in one area I had been in the process of mulching a bed when I ran out of time, leaving a pile of arborists about a foot tall that I had been planning on spreading. They ate it. It literally disappeared leaving a pile of clay in its place. This is at the base of a stone wall, so judging the relative height of the ground level is simple. Any castings of organic matter sit on top of the soil beneath the duff layer like ball bearings, and they just flow away with any water. I have a number of areas where they collect, and I've experimented with trying to get the to incorporate with the soil layer, and it just doesn't work.

In my main food producing beds, the story is the same. They eat the organic matter and leave the castings on top. It washes away, and the soil compacts on its own. The mulch disappears leaving bare soil. There's no layer anymore where the distinction between mulch and soil blends. It's just mulch on top of clay. My annuals don't do well anymore, although my established deep-rooted perennials are doing fine. In response, we are re-contouring our beds to direct the castings inward, but I'm not sure how mulch that'll help.

These worms are voracious, as well. Their metabolism is much higher than European earthworms, so they eat far more. In one presentation I watched, the vermologist (yep, that's a worm scientist) was comparing the two types (there are multiple species of each), and he said that your average european earthworm lives about five years and in that time moves no more than 30 feet. The jumping worm lives only a single year, and in that time it can travel 300 feet.

I've tried the mustard water to get them to come to the surface, but that doesn't seem to make much of a difference. Saponin compounds are supposed to be toxic to them, but they are also toxic to amphibians and other soft-bodied animals, so that's out. My plan for this coming year is to use a fungal control that's showing promise. It's very cutting edge, but I'm basically going to follow the lab protocol below, but instead of doing it in a controlled bucket, I'm going to treat half my beds and leave the other half alone. We will see. In short, you inoculate millet with a fungal product that's sold to the greenhouse industry, and it acts as a bait. The fungus is toxic to the worms, but it has to be ingested. I'll definitely be reporting my results here on permies.

https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8035901/
1 month ago
Sure you can! “Building” doesn’t necessary mean anything large or even involving tools.

Your beans will need something to climb. Consider getting a couple of bamboo poles that you can stick in the soil, and weave some twine between them to create a trellis. It’s a pleasant way to spend a some time. Then watch how they climb.
I’m assuming these are climbing beans, rather than bush beans.

A google image search for “twine trellis for pole beans” will turn up plenty of inspiration.

-D
2 months ago
Hi Taylor. If you are still active here, I’d love to know how did your article turned out? I’m battling them here on my small property, they’ve really made a mess of my soil in just a couple of years , and I’d be interested to see what mechanisms exist in their native ranges that keep them in check.

Next year I’m following a protocol that used B. bassiana as a myco-remediation.

https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8035901/
2 months ago
That's a bean! The first leaves that come out of most seeds are called cotyledons (I think I spelled that correctly), and they rarely have the same form as the standard leaf of the plant. They are actually all wrapped up in the seed casing, so the plant doesn't have to expend any energy until it receives some sunlight! It's very cool. Take one of the beans you didn't plant and soak it for a few hours. Then tease it apart and see if you can unroll the cotyledons and beginnings of the taproot. Beans are an excellent choice for this kind of exploratory experiment because they are so large and their structures are robust.

It looks like it's stretching for the light. You might try to get it into brighter light, ideally outside.

-D
2 months ago
We have a lot of shade on our small parcel, and we talk a lot about what food we could grow that would actually provide some real calories. General advice for food is leafy greens, nuts, and berries, and we do that. Squirrels get the hazelnuts, the effers. They’re all named Kevin. Effing Kevin.

Potatoes are so varied and are able to grow in so many different less-than-ideal environments (I recommend everyone find a copy of 1493 at their local library and read the section on the potato) that I actually wonder if there are any that anyone knows might actually have some shade tolerance.

-D
2 months ago
Hi Luna, and welcome to permies. I’m not the most active poster, but I know that I can say that you are welcome here and your voice matters.

Late fall/early winter can be a tough time in the garden, at least where I am in Pennsylvania. It is also a time for hope and planning, something I think many people are struggling with. It looks like you have a small bed and room for a few pots. I would encourage you think about more than just getting something to grow, like dill (which is lovely, keep growing that). Do certain colors make you happy? Grow a selection of plants that bloom st different times to give you that color over a longer period.

What about texture? One of my daughters (9) and spouse (considerably older) both have type 1 autism (I am borderline), and they both are extremely sensitive to touch and texture. I grow a variety of plants with soft, feathery textures that are a pleasure to touch, and they smell sweet and delightful. There are big, mature plantings of bronze fennel along the path leading to the front door, where one can brush a hand along as you walk by. They are perennial, and also look good when they go dormant, as they hold their form (google New Perennial Movement to see how herbaceous plantings have be used ornamentally during their dormant phase).

As long as it doesn’t get too wet, you can also grow Mediterranean herbs like rosemary; I have zone jealousy of people who can grow creeping rosemary. Creeping thyme comes in a wide variety of cultivars, and the insects love it. It’s more forgiving of heavy soil than rosemary.

Could you grow vines? A climbing structure in the middle of your bed would allow you to grow beans; scarlet runner beans are arguably perennial south of zone 7, and they flower prolifically. We use them as a screen to shade our west-facing porch. They are very popular with hummingbirds. They tend not to set fruit when days are over 80 degrees, but they keep flowering. I would speculate that you would get a spring/fall/maybe even winter harvest. It’s worth an experiment.

Tomatoes may be the classic garden crop, but they are fickle, and it can be hard to find the right one for your particular situation. If you find yourself easily discouraged but want to grow tomatoes , don’t try growing a slicer or saucer tomato first; grow a cherry or grape variety. Here, an heirloom called Matt’s Wild Cherry is bulletproof, prolific, and delicious. They keep coming back via volunteers, too.

Create a log or gardening journal , maybe on your phone, maybe using a notebook. And just one more thing; I’ve heard it said by more than one person in the know that childhood is hard, but autistic people are some of the best adults. I hope permies can be part of your tribe.


-D
2 months ago
I don’t have a lot of potted plants, but for those that I do have, i generally water the soil rather than the foliage. Unless I give my begonia a shower, which it likes.
My thinking…,you can rarely go wrong watering the roots. One can often go wrong with overhead watering.
Hi Chris. Great link (the second one, first is currently broken). I’ve had a similar thought. Different plants prefer to get water different ways, and I’ve oftentimes observed the shape of the leaves to see if it channels water directly to the crown or outwards to the spreading roots.

/D