Bill Haynes

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since Nov 05, 2018
Home school survivor,
Pentecostobabtist, (now theres a dichotomy!)
Questioner of needless authority.
Master Electrician,
Jack of many trades!
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Recent posts by Bill Haynes

As  follow up....
These people wax rhapsodic over their composter and give the full run down on almost every aspect of it you can think of!

https://www.gonewiththewynns.com/composting-toilet
2 months ago
Thats something I've always wondered.
Has anyone tried using a glycol mixture as mass in a rocket mass heater?
2 months ago
Well...
A $20,000 septic system (in my area they're actually about $5,000)  IS the safe,sanitary, legal system!

The problem with "alternative" building is; while you may be willing to jump through hoops to have an alternative lifestyle chances are the next owner of your house probably won't be.
Since few people have the courtesy to burn down their "alternative" constructions, and instead wish to turn a profit off them when they move on, the safe, sanitary, legal, system (the one in place!) has proven to the broad cross section of the people to be the sanest solution.

County officials aren't so concerned with some oddball living with the consequences of their alternative lifestyle as they are with a subsequent owner showing up in a public meeting screaming "Didn't you people enforce any standards!" after their kid fell into a barely covered sump of sewage that wasn't in the realtor's description.

Your best bet is to show how the long term disposal of your self contained system will be as easy, thorough, and trouble free as a conventional system.
Septic systems have a reasonable lifespan of 50 to 75 years, Most peoples fascination with emptying catch tanks, ash pans, etc, wanes after a few years and disgusting shortcuts become common.

A few counties still allow pit outhouses, it may be worth your effort to see if its legal there.
2 months ago
FWIW
If your heat source is at least 2 feet below your storage bins than a thermosyphon loop can be set up without pumps.
just link all storage in series (on the bottom of the tank) and pull your cold from the bottom at one end and push the heated water into the top of the opposite end of your tank series.
Ebay sells stainless heat coils you can install inside your woodburner, or a copper winding outside your chimney will work. the stainless coils are by far the most efficient option IMHO. The larger the heat coil diameter the better!
Barring the two foot (or greater) drop to the heat source a small 1/25 hp pump can run round the clock for pennies, link the tanks as previously mentioned with the low end of the source being the input to your pump.
Be carefull in a thermosyphon system to avoid air traps in the line as they will bring flow to a halt. A constant uphill gradient is an absolute requirement if it cannot be achieved than a pump is required.
Don't forget this system cannot be sealed or you will create a bomb, a small one if the storage is plastic, a huge one if you have sealed metal drums, an open j breather in the top of each tote or drum will keep pressure from building. IF you have CERTIFIED RATED components ( pressure rated) you can get by with a common water heater Temperature and Pressure valve in every tank.
Also if your system has any ferrous metal in them each new flow of fresh water will increase rust in the system, boilers operate for years via oxygen depletion...and chemical inhibition, a fresh flow / domestic water system has neither option.
2 months ago
Pyrex flows 1510 degrees Fahrenheit......
2 months ago
I'm a master electrician with thirty years in the trade.
If the creek is constant......and adequate to power a micro (or larger) turbine it is hands down your absolute best source.
If you have adequate fall (100' or more between hydro units) you can reuse the same water multiple times thru multiple hydros. if you have a massive flow you can power a massive gen set,
20 KW is adequate to power any task on the farm. Most of them concurrently.
If you have adequate volume, no nonsensical DC battery bank, inverter, or the mental, and schedule, contortions of balancing output, vs charge times, equalizing batteries, and a host of other minutia that keeps micro power such a headache.
Small Flows? still far simpler (and constant) than Solar.
Bad weather? a hydro unit only needs an adequate screen to keep floating trash out and it will create voltage thru darkness, storm, freezing, and fire(if your source dam is deep enough!).
So here's what you need to make a reasonable decision;
1;  Gallons per minute (or acre feet per hr) flow rate at the low water time of the year. (August - September) 20 GPM @ 6'drop will make usable power. (Without going into the micro power routine)
2; Maximum achievable fall between a reasonable dam site (one on YOUR property that YOU control) and if possible a site to put the genset near point of use. (2.6 foot drop = 1 lb pressure) Running wire from far away to point of use is possible, but wire (size and length) is the second largest limiter in the system.
3; Legal right to use the water from the creek, in Western States most of the surface water has been ceded to the tribes if it flows into any major river or stream, or if the creek flows across multiple owners properties, previous landowners may have rights to so many acre feet that by the time it gets to you in a drought year, flow will become inadequate.

Solar sounds wonderfull......especially if you have remarkably deep pockets, and enjoy fighting with your spouse/kids about energy conservation if you have a kid you WILL become the energy Grinch and your deep pockets will be lightened every seven to ten years,
The Obama EPA brought such brutal restrictions on lead into play that its smelting has almost disappeared in America, scrap batteries are rising in value yearly, and rifle  bullets are an average of thirty percent higher in 4 years, batteries do not last (except NIFE batteries ( not efficient but never obsolete!)).
Where Solar really shines is in passive design, think water heating, space heating (space cooling! if your clever or educated!)
Wind is a hit and miss, unless your site is ideal, but water pumping is a good application, (if you have adequate storage!)
Obviously if you have an ideal sight (equatorial for solar!) or unobstructed high winds , the costs start to balance out. One thing never taken into account is wind is remarkably destructive old windmills hang in tatters all over the west and leave any building for a few years unattended and roofing will blow loose!

Overshot wheels make torque, Undershot wheels are a distant second choice (OK its only my humble opinion!) Turbines make use of pressure efficiently, and if you are extraordinarily fortunate to have adequate drop, a Trompe will generate power and compress air concurrently.
3 months ago
It almost sounds as if you are using your hot water heater as a storage tank,
Short cycling happens because you have too large of a pump / too small of a storage tank, or the storage tank is waterlogged.
To set your storage tank for best efficiency fill the air bladder / air space to 2 PSI  less than the low pressure cut in (I.E. if your pressure valve cycles between 35 and 50 PSI set the pressure in the air bladder to 33 PSI).
Set it when the water is at its low point! You're trying to achieve maximum volume drop between cycles, forcing the pump to run as long as possible for every start cycle.
4 months ago
FWIW.... Win 10 has wonderfull security features....for other people beside the "end user /not really the owner".
Worried you might accidentally copy a DVD by mistake? Windows will work overtime to help you avoid that horror!
Concerned that you might accidentally have some copywritten software that you no longer have the license for? Win 10's EULA assures you that a snapshot of your system will be made (and frequently updated!) and any interested party can see if you are participating in piracy!
Want to enter your bank password, and keep your data (on your own computer) safe?
Well the best way to assure that, is to take your Windows computer and disconnect it from any network, ensure there is no microphone attached, disconnect power, bury it in reinforced concrete, and pray to the entire pantheon of Deity that Microsoft hasn't found a buyer willing to pay enough to recover that data....because...they've put in a backdoor just in case....

The copy referenced above is called a DiskImage and it allows you to reinstall you system EXACTLY like it was the moment you backed it up... Under Win 8 / 10 its called Windows7 backup in comparison to an "incremental" backup.

Almost any Linux edition will allow you to make a "Live CD" and test the waters without making irreversible commitments.
4 months ago
for a raging fast installation download "Puppy" linux to a cd and run it off the cd until your ready to commit to linux
Linux has a brutal learning curve so keep a seperate connection to the internet handy until you learn your way around.
You'll have to create it as an "iso" file system so read up on it
5 months ago