Tom Brookens

A link to the car charger option would be useful, I have not found a model for ridgid tools in my search.

Thanks in advance

Douglas Alpenstock wrote:You may be able to buy prebuilt circuits on Amazon.

Checking the no-load voltage of the wall wart would also be useful (probably higher than 18V).

It's hard to know if the charger/battery electronics will work properly in an undervolt situation. To avoid that, I suggest overbuilding the DC-DC converter by a good margin, rated for a continuous output of 4-5 A and 20 VDC.

Thanks for this, I will definitely test the wall wart and make sure the components I purchase are overbuilt.

So the photo in last post is the plug side box indicates to me the power conversion from ac to 18 v dc is complete before the charger and internal electronics.

So I just need to source a step up dc to dc charger.

Knowledge gained from responses also led me to the following:

https://youtu.be/idpWmOmBtRY?si=k90RT-pP4hgVCamY

Looks like  parts available for around $20

Thanks

Thanks for all the responses.

I have mostly ridgid tools, so is for a rdgid charger.

The interested.

I have a cabin powered by a 12v solar system.

In order to change my power tool batteries I need to convert the power to 120v ac to plug in the charger.

The power supply for the charger is 120v ac in and 18 v dc out.

I would like to convert my 12v dc to 18v dc to power the charger without the need to convert to ac.

Any recommendations for the right component to perform the power conversion from 12v to 18v dc.

Trying to keep as simple as possible and don't want to do anything that would harm the batteries.

I have a small solar system.   12 volt system with a single 300watt panel.  The solar panel is located on a dock by the lake,  the charge controller and batteries are located at the cabin approximately 50ft away.   The panel has a grounding lug connected to a ground wire which i have not yet connected to any in ground plate or rid.  

The questions are should i install the grounding rod/plate near the lake?  Do i need to bond the grounding wire to the components at the cabin as well?

Amazing how a month can pass by.  I have been trying to research and better understand all of the conflicting information regarding the best way to insulate.

Here is what I am planning to do, I am interested in all critiques of my plan, so please continue with your appreciated advice:

Firstly I have installed the device to measure if radon is an issue in our situation.

I plan to remove all of the the existing insulation.

I would like to insulate the rim joists and the walls of the foundation in order to maintain a warmer climate in the crawl space.  I am looking at 2 different approaches.

1 - use of a spray foam product to provide a complete air sealing and insulation in one application.  I understand that there are environmental concerns with respect to these products, so I have some reservations about proceeding with this option.  It is also expensive at about $3 / ft2 for a 2" application.  Are there alternative products available that are more environmentally friendly?  Are the energy savings worth the use of this product?

2 - Individually insulate the rim joists and walls with a rigid board product and substance to seal each are of the rim joists and seams.  If I am going to go with this option, I need to identify the best product(s) for this application, so I am looking for recommendation to consider.  In our local hardware stores they sell rigid rock wool based boards that could be used, which seem to be a better option to the typical foam products, but I am not sure that these are actually a more environmental option.

I saw a post that I am having trouble locating again, where there was a mehthod to insulate rim-joists with some type of board and a lime based (maybe hemp based?) product was used to complete the air sealing around the board.  I also cannot remember what the "board" material was.

I am interested in opinions on both the most effective and economical options, so if there are other alternatives that I should be considering please let me know.

The recommendations in Canada also include insulation of the floor of the crawl space, but I am not planning to do it at this time but will evaluate how effective my first attempts at insulating are performing.

Hopefully these interventions will improve the comfort in the living room and prevent the pipes from freezing...I plan to monitor the temperature in this crawl space and will add space heating if required to prevent freezing.

Thanks for the great  responses.

Some clarifications.

Living room is above the crawl space.  The living room is currently heated by electric baseboard.

The floor joists are insulated with the pink bats.  A layer of chicken wire was nailed in to help support the insulation which is sagging in some places.   There are signs of rodents.

The plumbing is on hanging in the crawl space on the cold side of the insulation.

The other parts of the house have a 5' basement there is a 3'x3' opening between crawl space and basement.

The crawl space has a dirt floor.

There are places where additional insulation could be added  along the rim joists.

The living room in our house is built over a crawl space about 3 ft high. The foundation of the addition extends about 4ft down and is uninsulated poured concrete.

The crawl space is connected to the rest of the basement through a 3ftx3ft opening.

In really cold weather the pipes in the crawl space have frozen.  The wood floors tend to be cold.

The floor is insulated, but the walls of the crawl space are not.

I am looking for suggestions on the best strategies to improve comfort in the living room.