J Davis wrote:If you are tight on timing, maybe do one small one so you can validate your method and results before putting an entire slope at risk of erosion.
Many of the factors will be local. Soil, rain, cover crops, etc. So even researching and prepping will only mitigate some risk. Much risk will remain until you have tested your method onsite.
Permie methodology is observe, act small, observe, expand scale.
Especially important when dealing with potential erosion on sigilnificant slope.
That said, sound idea. A bit jealous on your water supply :)
Tyler Ludens wrote: If you want the swales to act as swales and not ditches, and have more control over the water, you might consider digging them on contour and installing swivel pipes so that when you want to move the water downhill instead of holding it, you can swivel the pipes. At minute 4:00 in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dcgHvYWLs-Q&t=80s
J Davis wrote:Sounds perfect.
Only advice would be have your mulch, straw, seeds on hand and ready to go and choose your timing as best you can to ensure heavy rains dont arrive while distrubed soil is bare.
eric fisher wrote:
-- You have some potent stuff in this list.
Good to know about the ash, it’s just usually a resource I have a lot of in winter because stove fires. Weeds usually include, at least in the batch of tea I’m referring to, chickweed, miner’s lettuce, foxtails, etc.
You gave me a lot to think about here Dillon so I slept on it, and then there is the time zone differential. Anyone reading this and posting on here, be rest assured I will get to you.
You have already told me that you feel your mix does feed your plants and you notice a positive response so I expect the feeding aspect is positive. If you want to enhance things further consider the nutrient balance and what essential and beneficial elements are available to your plants. For the sake of brevity I won’t go into the ‘law of the minimum’ and essentiality here which you may already be well aware of.
Don’t think you have to worry much regarding phytotoxins since you leave it in the 3-4 months and these are usually prevalent in fresher organic matter.
I am rather nervous regarding your use of the ash (Potassium Hydroxide), it has a very high pH of up to 14 ! ; which is very extreme. On a plus side it is likely to nuke any pathogens around because most of them are neutrophils. On the minus side it’s going to nuke almost every other living organism too. When you put your solution/mulch on the land the earthworms may want to avoid it, which is not something you want. I gather you have laid down a lot of ash. I would be inclined to do a soil pH test and test your solution as a matter of urgency.
I would also be inclined to use the ash as a separate amendment and add seaweed instead in your bucket which is high is potassium, traces, growth hormones and is more gentle.
Chickweed (Stellaria media) is high in calcium, magnesium, manganese, zinc and iron.
Miner’s Lettuce (Claytonia perfoliate) is an interesting one. It is high iron and high in oxalates which have pesticidal properties like rhubarb leaves.
Regarding foxtails present in varied grasses be careful with this stuff. It is toxic to dogs, horses and an irritant to humans. The inflorescences and spikelets can enter the body via the nose and ears and is high in oxalates like miner’s lettuce.
Hope that helps. Just for the sake interest I have included a spikelet pic below.
eric fisher wrote:
1. Can I ask if you stir it at all and the frequency ?
2. How long did you wait to use it ?
3. Did you put a lid on top; was it tight fitting ?
4. In what way did you apply it to plant ? eg. foliar spray, root drench.
5. Which plants ? and their use. For instance if you are pouring the stuff on salad leaves then eating them straight after, I might be concerned.
Regarding the ash I would be inclined to do pH test because too much alkalinity might be a problem. Also regarding the 'weeds' did you spot any you know because some are dynamic accumulators and can be real asset to your brews.
eric fisher wrote:
Hey Eric, I’ve heard a lot of spiel denouncing anaerobic teas, mostly around the idea that plants like aerobic conditions (not drowning) so anaerobic microbes encouraged by anaerobic teas are worse than whatever’s different about aerobic teas. What’s your take?
I think many people decide on one camp or the other and I really don't think it is as straightforward as that. It is a broad area and depends on how you make it and then how you use it.
Do you have a particular example of anaerobically prepared tea so we can consider the pros and cons in a more concrete way ? I ask for a specific example because there is very broad range of methods under the anaerobic banner from the Bokashi style to chucking manure in polythene bags. Also an anaerobic process can just be one aspect of the substances path to being used in a meaningful way. For instance you could have something that is really nasty, seething with phytotoxins and disease then spread it out on your land and encourage the worms for a year then things can turn around.