Attila Németh

Glenn Herbert wrote:I notice your plan shows windows set deeply into the south wall. This will cause the glass to be shaded much of the day except near noon, drastically reducing solar gain. I think you would get much better results putting the glass near the exterior face of the wall.

Yeah the app is not smart enough or me... windows will be outside 50 cm thick walls so man can sit there contemplating like in movies in the kitchen kids can sit there the other side of the table when im chopping.
Inside i will put a
https://roletta-rolo.hu/roletta/tokozott-roletta/
Blind curtain in a rail? another heatbarrier.

What is that 4" system means?
Where should i put a thermosiphon water heater coil?
Can it be on the bell way down to the hole to the tubes for the mass?
Thanks in advance

Thanks Sir!

I didnot really get your concept. Googleing the cavity came out as a teeth
The normal raiser size should be fine i dont want to chop the woot into chopsticks.
My question is the bell could be built by bricks partially by the same shape as a barell? With a piece of metal each room but bricks in the wall. The metal should be able to open for cleaning.
The picture is the black wood goes in the big circle is the "barell" purple is the chimney as i think right now.

I think it can work.

The house will be strawbale passivHaus windows mvhr so maybe i dont even need this other rmh i will habe a masonry rocket cookstove with bench in the kitchen.

I would like to know your opinions.
16.5 m with the walls but 4.5 plus the cellar and entrance room i will put bales walls beetween living room and cellar as well. The windows are south facing.  I will put a lot of cob into it with least straw as possible.

The house will be in Hungary middle europe. With - 20 max in winter. Not too much snow though. We are becoming dessert as i see it changing.

allen lumley wrote:

This is only my latest interpretation of what goes on within the  Heat Riser, (which I think we all agree works as a 1st, primary chimney) and the Barrel, and the words are my
own, I claim no special knowledge! Everything said here relates only to the functioning of a Good R.M.H. !

Not only does a Well insulated Heat Riser create the High flow rate, high Volume flow of Hot Exhaust gases, these hot exhaust gases by their very nature is/are packed with
'potential energy' !

The rapid cooling of the until then Hot Exhaust gases, from their contact against the skin of the Top and sides of the Barrel, allows them to fall rapidly through the transition area
and flow out the horizontal pipe ! The turbulence created within both of these sections creates both more heat, and the Rocket-y sounds that you hear !

Failure of the External skin of a R.M.H. to radiate sufficient heat will eventually cause the  Flow of the Hot Exhaust Gases to stall as the temperature within the R.M.H. equalizes
everywhere ! This is even more pronounced when the Heat Riser is poorly insulated, as enough heat can then leak through the Heat Risers External wall - into the area of the
barrel or exterior skin of the R.M.H. to cause that 'stalling' to occur at a higher temperature and sooner ! Massive fail, and a living space filled with smoke !

Thanks for the great info

My aim is to make an efficient heater which heats up a 120 sqft and 96 sqft rooms being built into the wall beetween them. I planned a cob wall maybe bricks around the heat raiser outside...

How would you do it? How would you provide radiant heat both rooms and heat up a mass under a double bed next to the wall in the bigger room please?

To your info about the Conductiving and gases flows the cooling way(sorry for my english) would a water heating pipe in the right place create the draft? For example on the bottom of the outside of the heat raiser near the exhaustion pipe starts?

Thanks in advance
My first post