Jan White wrote:This is tough. I lived surrounded by cherry orchards for a few years. My dog got an autoimmune disease and almost died. I had to send him to live with my parents until we could get out of there. Every time he came back, it flared back up.
Cherries get sprayed a lot, too. But sometimes what they were spraying was fertilizer or something pretty innocuous. The orchard where I was would send emails out to surrounding properties telling you what they were spraying and when, so you could make sure your windows were closed that day or whatever. Maybe there's something like that you could access, too.
Seeing how sick my dog got was pretty telling. Even though my other dog and my husband and I were fine, there was obviously very bad stuff in the environment that we were being exposed to every day. I couldn't wait to move.
Eric Nar wrote:I'm in the arid desert and want to store water with earthworks. The soil is sandy and dry, so I wanted to sheet mulch to build soil.
I was wondering, even though sheet mulching is so you dont have to dig, I was thinking that sheet mulching would work to store (absorb) water like basins and build soil at the same time.
Is it worth it to dig a foot or two for a sunken sheet mulched bed?
Also for sheet mulching, cardboard-manure-straw..that works? can I use alfalfa hay instead of strawbales? I have free access to manure, but not straw
thanks!
Rufus Laggren wrote:Thanks for the idea, Patrick.
That sounds real workable. Might help my sister considerably. <g>
Cheers,
Rufus
Barb Allen wrote:
Patrick Humphrey wrote:I live in Florida where its hot as heck and we have some red russian kale that is still going. The stalk is super high but it is still creating leaves at the top. Ive never had any go to flower yet surprisingly. I need to clear it out but i dont want to get rid of it LOL
Hi Patrick, I have had great success MOVING Kale plants (even in late August!) - at almost any time in their life! So you might try moving your red russian somewhere where it can just keep going and not be in the way. You might also try cutting some back to 6 or 8" and seeing if they will resprout a top. Most kinds that I grow do this very well.
And - I forget who asked about it continuing on after flowering -- My experience has been good with this as well! I have even let really special plants go to seed, collected the seed, and cut off the seed stalks and had them just continue on. I find kale one of the toughest most useful long producing plants in my garden. I get the wonderful flower sprouts to eat in spring - and always let some flower for the bees - and harvest leaves for me and the chickens all year round! If one of the plants gets aphids at the top around the new leaves (a common phenomena), I just break the whole top off and give it to the chickens - who love the aphids as well as the kale! I have plants that are going on 5 yrs. old... If you break the tops off they will branch out instead of making a tall skinny plant. They you have short bushy plants with many more leaves and tasty bud heads in the spring. A great plant to experiment with!
Rufus Laggren wrote:Is the twine staked at the bottom?
Did those tomatoes just crawl up the twine by themselves or did they need lots of guidance?
Thanks,
Rufus