Kārlis Taurenis

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since Mar 26, 2020
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A forest garden designer from the UK, now living in Latvia - a new climate with new possibilities!
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Recent posts by Kārlis Taurenis

Hi again Thomas! Thanks so much for the extra info!

Tephrosia sounds excellent - we'll be looking into that one further!

I also love your enthusiasm about Acacia mangium. As it's a pioneer plant growing on bare ground, I wounder if it could become weedy in this landscape. We have a lot of wild fires here! On the other hand, it sounds like it will produce loads of biomass + nitrogen fixing to boot! I'd be curious to learn more about your work in Thailand, too. Are you using biomass plants there?

Anne, thanks for those suggestions, I'll do some more research there!

Appreciating your help guys!
1 month ago
Hi Everyone!

I'm a forest garden specialist from Latvia/the UK but am currently working on permaculture projects in Southern India. I'm thinking about moving here more full time, but know very little about this climate and the plants that grow here!

So far, I've been totally gob-smacked by the lack of literature on tropical agroforestry. With 40% of the world's people living in the tropics, why on earth are there not dozens of books devoted to tropical food forests and agroforestry systems? The information would be transformational to huge swathes of Asia, Africa, South America, and even Australia.

I sincerely hope that I'm missing something and that there are some gems out there! Please, please, please could someone tell me of some tried-and-tested books on the subject? Or at second-best just generic 'Permaculture / Permaculture Plants in Tropical Climates' type books... this would be a God-send to help me get to grips with this incredibly rich, diverse and fruitful climatic zone :)

Thank you,

Charlie/Karlis
1 month ago
Hi Nancy and Thomas!

Thank you so much for your answers.

I do use the PFAF database extensively but so far haven't found the filters super effective. I find a list of unknown names hard to relate to. Hence why I'm hungry for a good tropical agroforestry book with pictures etc.! I will consider Canna Lilies, thank you!

As for the suggestions for woody plants - our soil here is very dry and acidic so I think that rules out Leucaena. Neem also prefers alkaline soils.

Acacia mangium is an interesting possibility, as is Tephrosia candida - both drought tolerant, Nitrogen fixing, and fast growing in poor soils! I would prefer to work with native species - I just wonder if these two could be invasive?

Thanks again!
Charlie


1 month ago
Hi everyone!

I think most folks here, like me, come from temperate or subtropical climates. There's lots of talk about biomass crops for cooler climates, but 40% of the world's inhabitants live in tropical zones. I'm currently working on some permaculture projects in Southern India and need your help!

Does anyone know the best biomass/carbon accumulating plants for tropical climates?

We need to add as much organic matter to the soil ASAP! We're looking for both:

A) fast-growing woody species that can be turned to woodchip/biochar etc.

and

B) Vigorous herbaceous perennials that can be chopped and used for mulch easily.

Sincere thanks,

Charlie
2 months ago
You can also use toilet paper! I'll try it next week, it looks very easy! Check this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WQlolVGRWic

Good luck! :)
1 year ago
Breeding hardy passifloras! Fascinating topic. Yet it seems imperative to get fully clear on passiflora hardiness to understand the implications.

Alexander, you say:

P. lutea is hardy to zone 5 here in the US. P. incarnata and P. caerulea are hardy to zone 6. Tropical P. edulis hardy to zone 9.



and later:

Incarnata and caerulea have a well known hybrid called Colvillii which is noted as surviving temperatures as low as -15F, which corresponds with zone 5.  



Some of this is fairly contrary to my understanding. P.caerulea is sometime quoted as being hardy to zone 6 (-10°F or -24°C) but other sources such as PFAF - https://pfaf.org/User/plant.aspx?latinname=Passiflora+caerulea - state zone 9 (20°F or -7°C). A huge difference!!! What is the truth?

From seeing them only marginally surviving where I'm from in Southwest England, I'd say they're hardy to around zone 9 or probably zone 8 for well established specimens.

As for P.incarnata - it's native to states like Illinois and Indiana, so definitely hardy to zone 6 (-10°F or -24°C).

A hybrid between the two, then, would seem unlikely to be more hardy than either. You mentioned the hybrid P.colvillii is hardy to zone 5. I would simply love for that to be true, since I now live in zone 5 Latvia! But a quick search at https://www.passiflora.it/colvillii/246/eng/ tells it's only hardy to -10°C (zone 8).

It would be lovely to cut through all the conflicting information by getting real, first hand experience from growers - which exactly is what makes permies forums so great! So let's have the truth about hardy passifloras y'all!
2 years ago
Thanks very much all of you for your input! Very interesting to learn about native bamboos and woody grasses...

I would be tempted to try growing Giant Miscanthus here (in Latvia) also, except that when I tried growing it in Devon, southwest England, late spring frosts killed the emerging shoots, setting the plants back.

Late spring frosts can be harder and later here - easily til the end of May, so I think it's not worth trying. I'm hoping that bamboo shoots are a little tougher!
2 years ago
Hi all, thought it's time to breathe new life into this thread!

Cold hardy bamboos - a really important topic for all of us living in colder climates, and I intend to write a proper article about it on my website soon!

The Phyllostachys (classic, big, spreading bamboos) species that Jennifer mentioned are the usual suspects for cold climates:

Phyllostachys bissetii  - This species seems to be the toughest and most cold hardy, and it has foliage branching almost all the way down to the ground.

Phyllostachys aureosulcata and ‘Spectabilis’ variety

Phyllostachys nuda  

Phyllostachys atrovaginata - This species has the strongest wood, but foliage doesn't begin until 5-6' up.  

Phyllostachys parvifolia



As far as I've seen in my research, P.bissetii is often recommended as the most cold hardy species, but it's worth digging around online gardening forums. I found this from a grower in southern Ontario:

nuda was a total bust here in zone 4b/5a. I heard the same thing from a fellow in Niagara, not that it failed, just that it was like having 'running sticks' as opposed to bamboo. I can't list all of the plants that have failed here, but a list would include: P. vivax, rubromarginata, F. murieale (could try again), P. bissetti, P. aureosulcata 'aureocaulis', and about 15 other Phyllostachys that I can't remember right now! Outside of zone 6, and even in zone 6, plants need some serious size to have a chance of making it long term (i.e. larger than 7 gallon sized). I imagine that I'd still have lots of different species if I had listened to that advice when I first started with bamboo!

The ones that are succeeding are:
P. aureosulcata, probably averages 15' or so. Usually mostly top-kills here, shoots in May.
P. aureosulcata 'spectibilis': Seems to downsizing here, probably no taller than 10'. Not as vigorous as the species.
P. aureosulcata 'alata': Running like a champ. Has spread very quickly, but is still really short at (perhaps) 6'. I keep hoping for an upsize.



So - it seems that this fella was having the most success with P.aureosulcata than P.bissetti, dulcis, or others, although interestingly he says that the P.aureosulcata variety 'aureocaulis' failed. I hope that was just bad luck because I just ordered one for my land in Latvia in zone 5!

P.parvifolia also sounds so promising - maybe the hardiest, but hard to get hold of. It's said to even thrive in wet soils.

I've also ordered Fargesia 'Jiuzhaigou' I - Red Dragon, which, according to https://www.bamboogarden.com/cold-hardy-bamboo - is hardy down to -20°F.

Let's see!

I'd love to hear more of your experience guys, cheers!

2 years ago
Interesting post, thanks for sharing experiences, everyone!

I'm looking at growing Jujubes in Latvia, Northeast Europe, but I think it might be just too cold, with not enough summer heat.

We are at USDA Zone 5B here (lows to -15°F or -26°C) & a nursery from Poland where winters are warmer states the bush may need covering in cold winters. See: https://kielkowski-szkolka.pl/produkt/glozyna-pospolita-tzw--daktyle-chinskie----ziziphus-jujuba--204

On the other hand, I saw a nursery in Canada saying that Jujubes are hardy to -25°C and can be grown in a pot and brought into a garage in colder climates. See: https://www.greenbarnnursery.ca/products/ponderosa

Of course summer ripening is another issue - here we only have 3-4 frost-free months, frosts can easily return by the end of September some years.

I would love to hear more from your experiences guys, as this post is already a couple of years old - did they grow for you?

Thanks to all for sharing precious knowledge & experience, it really helps!

Charlie

2 years ago
Hi everyone,

Thanks so much for your feedback, your own experiences, it's always helpful.

I've done quite a bit more research into this and am amazed how much debate there seems to be on forums and things when there's actually been really good studies into borax on wood - you just have to find them!

The results that I can see is that borax is a pretty effective wood preservative and fire-retardant as long as it is not constantly exposed to the leaching of water.

Based on my findings it seems that borates either have no effect, or actually improve the structural strength of wood. Good protection from insects and fungi, although perhaps not moulds. Low toxicity to humans. A slight drawback that it can blunt blades a little faster than untreated wood!

Firstly wood strength! :

This study experimented on the effect of borax on bamboo, and I assume the results could also be applied to wood:

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/347109744_The_Effect_of_Borax_Solution_as_Preservative_to_the_Mechanical_Properties_of_Bamboo

This excellent study from 2020 concluded that:

"This  study indicated  that  30% to  50%  borax in  the preservative  solution is  sufficient  to provide  significant
increase in strength for  compressive strength,  tensile strength, and  bending strength  of bamboo  specimen."

(Great study - I'm just slightly puzzled about how one could achieve a 50% borax solution in cold conditions, am I misunderstanding something?!)


More research on borates (including boric acid) for timber preservation from Australia in 2004, contains lots of findings from many other studies, encompassing a lot of helpful information:

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/328600265_Treatment_Methods_for_the_Protection_of_Hardwood_Sapwood_from_Lyctine_Borers

"Boron has a number of advantages as a wood preservative... Borates are relatively inexpensive, colourless, non-flammable, and can be applied by a variety of methods, ranging from cheap dip tanks to sophisticated VPI plants...

Boron also has sound health, safety and environmental credentials (not withstanding the directive from
Sweden mentioned above), as it has low toxicity to mammals, and low environmental impact
(Currie, 1997). "

"Borates are generally effective against sapstain fungi. However, at the levels normally used
commercially, borates do not protect timber from surface moulds. " (Amburgey, 1990)

"Boron treatment has no significant effect on the strength of timber" (Anon., 1994).

"Boron treated timber will blunt saw blades more quickly than untreated timber" (Davis and Norton, 1995).

"Provided the treated timber is dried to a moisture content below 18%, borate treatment should have no adverse effect on painting" (Anon.., 1994).  

"Borate treated wood can affect phenol formaldehyde glues, but most other glues seem to be
compatible." (K. Lyngcoln, pers. comm., 1996)

Cold water soaking:

"It usually involves soaking in 3 to 4.5% borax for 12-14 days (Johnstone and Humphreys, 1972). The length of time needed to treat timber by soaking depends on timber species and thickness. As a general rule for 4.5% borax solutions at 18C, timber of 2.54 cm thickness requires seven days soaking, while timber of
3.81 cm thickness requires 14 days soaking" (Davis and Norton, 1995).


There's loads more information in both of those studies quoted about the preservation powers of borax. As long as the wood is not being exposed to water constantly, I'm very encouraged that borax is a sound, environmentally friendly method of treating wood.






3 years ago