Joseph Lofthouse wrote:I grow strawberries as a perennial in full sun. It works really well, as long as I kept the grass weeded out. It only takes one year of not weeding out the grass for a patch to succumb. Annual weeds don't compete well with the strawberries.
Michael Qulek wrote:David is very correct. That is a scam product designed to separate you from your money. It is a cheapo PWM controller marketed by a company called "MPPT Solar".
There are a couple of clues for you to look for in this ad. Reading the questions and answers section, you see...
3. Q: My solar panel is 36V 200W, can I charge 12V battery?
A: To charge a 12V battery, the working voltage of the solar panel can be between 17V and 23V, and for a 24V battery, the working voltage of the solar panel can be between 36V and 46V.
The fact that the solar panel can only have a max voltage of 23V is a BIG clue that it is a fake. Real MPPT controllers, start at 100V, and go up from there.
Another clue is that shipping weight of 12oz. A real MPPT controller has lots of heavy copper wire toroid-rings. The MPPT acts as a transformer, taking high raw solar voltage, transforming it down to battery charging voltage, making extra charging amps out of the extra volts. A real MPPT controller will have a shipping weight measured in pounds, not oz.
Please forget the 12V starter battery idea completely. You will quickly destroy the batteries, waste the money you spent on them, and get disillusioned about solar. Let me give you some suggestions for putting together a reliable system that won't fail you.
Start with golf-cart batteries. They are designed to be deeply drained, have fairly high capacity, and can be found just about anywhere. Typical GC batteries are 6V, so you need to buy two to make a 12V battery bank. You wire the two batteries in series. Wire the negative terminal of battery #1 to the positive terminal of battery #2 to make 12V. An economical choice right now is the 210Ah GC from Costco, which is 110$ right now. Get two of those. A step up from those is Trojan's T-105 GC. Those are 250Ah, but a bit pricier.
Next, the charge controller. A good for the money entry-level controller is Epever's Tracer 4210AN. It can be used for either a 12V or 24V system, has a 100V limit, and can charge the battery with up to 40A of current, if the power is available. You can pick that up on Ebay or Amazon for ~125$. You connect the positive terminal of battery #1 to the + battery terminal of the controller. You connect the negative terminal of battery #2 to the - terminal of the controller. Once you let the the controller boot up, it will display the battery voltage, which should be ~12.5V or so.
Now, the solar. Skip the little 12V panels designed for the automotive market. You get far higher W/$ going with high-voltage residential grid-tie panels. Shop for those locally on Craigslist, with local cash and carry pickup. That way you avoid the high shipping charges associated with mailing panels. Expect to get 3-4W/$. Two 240-250W grid-ties (~75-80$ each) wired in series would be good, or maybe a single 350-400W panel (~175-180$ each). Connect the positive and negative leads from the panel(s), to the + and - terminals of the controller. Do this ONLY after you have booted up the controller first on battery power. NEVER connect the solar to the controller before connecting the battery. Build a frame to hold the panels directly facing the sun at noon. On an average day, the best you can expect to see in terms of real-world solar output is ~85%.
This will give you a system that can power just about any RV appliance you want to buy. It's best to not drain flooded batteries less than 50%, so this system will give you about 1.2kWh of power per day. 12V lights, a 12V TV, a 12V laptop power supply.
Buy a gallon of distilled water and check the electrolyte levels monthly. Top them off as needed, maybe once every 2-3 months.
You may at some point want to buy an inverter that can convert battery DC into regular household AC. Make sure you buy "sine-wave" if you run anything powering an electric motor, a refrigerator for example. Keep in mind though that an inverter just being left on is load on the system, and may consume 250-750Wh per day, depending on the brand.
Good luck!
Made in China
Maximum Power (Pmax) 260W
Maximum Power Voltage (V mp) 30.6V
Maximum Power Current (Imp) 8.50A
Open Circuit Voltage (Voc) 38.2V
Short Circuit Current (Isc) 9.00A
Maximum System Voltage IEC1000V/UL1000V
Maximum Series Fuse 15A
Module Application Class A
Stephan Halasz wrote:I am about to renew my efforts on a project like this, and a quick search online revealed this MPPT controller at a modest price. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0894CTHCY/?tag=cleanenergysm-20&th=1
I assume it's ok to post Amazon links here, new to the forum.
In my past, I experimented more with old laptop chargers, or wall warts to charge, with dry cell batteries and had modest results.
I have often read in the past that deep cycling auto batteries is really hard on their lifespan.
I look forward to reading more replies on this thread, as the more I watch going on, the more likely I think an EMP is going to be a part of the next war waged on the US. You know, like one floating over us at 60,000 ft in a Balloon, I mean UFO.
amazon review wrote:
Largest issue: in my specific setup (4*100w 12V panels) this solar charge controller will not consistently provide power to the battery. While the controller does appear to be able to handle the current (most I saw as just above 10 amps) it is unable to sustain this current. It will intermittently stop providing power to the battery for no apparent reason. I even confirmed that there was power by using a Multi-Meter. (22~23Voc and 10 amps)
I did not notice this intermittent charging issue until I installed my latest 2 solar panels ( I noticed I was barely charging the battery (maybe 120wh on a sunny day out of 2 100W 12V panel), but I initially contributed this to the fact that it was winter.
Lessons Learned: do not cheap out on your solar charger.
Angyl Eternity wrote:Yeah I've been mining ⛏️ Crypto for over a year on solar and was wondering if anyone was doin that and wanted to chat about it!
Carlos Lam wrote:Yep! Rigs aren't 100% solar powered but get a good chunk from PV panels. The rigs are in a grow tent to concentrate the heat (1). The heat produced from the rigs is siphoned into a 2d grow tent (2) where I've stacked some wood (3) for my wood stove (the temp is over 100F and humidity under 10%). Finally, the heat is pumped to the return duct (4).
John C Daley wrote:The car batteries cant have deep discharges.
But if you play with number of batteries, total cost of those batteries you may be able to get something working.
I have used car batteries when I had no money spare.