Joshua Plymouth

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since Jun 24, 2020
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Recent posts by Joshua Plymouth

post on charcuterie too

I’m rebuilding a very large smokehouse, it is 20 ft by 10 ft, and the beams make it 8 ft tall, 10 feet tall including the space in the roof. My ultimate goal is to be able to smoke meats, and a lot of meats all at once, potentially a whole beef, a flock of birds, or a herd of hogs. Maybe also just some veggies or something. The possibilities are endless, in old days people built large smokehouses for similar needs, below I am listing some videos.

Here is an example of an old smokehouse founding fathers used for their meats.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H0qDCMgGCJ4

Here is an example of a smokehouse with brick walls, now that’s a sturdy smokehouse!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XTcUqJiPLXM


Here is an example of more of what I am making, it is kinda. Log shack, not nearly airtight. But the details on how they built it are all missing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UawRK6nxFhY


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S6UkXhHUTfM

A father and son hanging some hams to cold smoke, but they still give no details on the smoking process.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vk3FaIZhRS0


Its great stuff, and maybe I am missing something tin that perhaps it is so simple that the details never really mattered, yet so many details seem so important, so I’ll take all I can get.

The details of how far out the fire is, or what kind of plastic sheets or curtains they used to seal in the smoke are nonexistent. I want to make a Smoking apparatus that fills the whole chamber, and smokes all the meats in the chamber thoughroughly Any sources or ideas are welcome. Under the smokehouse is a root cellar, and the smokehouse is built into a hill so having a stove or burn chamber, that has an exhaust pipe underground is doable. Please give feedback, I can’t find any material on this forgotten technique. It held up generations, it’s hard to believe in 300 years all knowledge was forgotten and replaced with an outlet and some refrigerant in tubes. Here are some pics of the current project. and a little diagram drawing
4 days ago
I have lots of cats, and I'm looking for a way to ensure litter doesn't get on the floor, and breaks down reliably, with  low to no odor, and maintenance once a week or less. What is your solution to cat littler? the clay pellets do not break down I would love to have something that could go across the field or in a compost pile. I've even thought about a robotic system that changes litter so it snot something I have to actively worry about. I also have a friendly pig, which I've heard can be litter trained, do you hav e a solution to this? Thanks!
1 month ago
Bumping this post to look for people out there again. 24 now, still looking for someone. You can reach out to me through permits or send an email to this address: joshua@slaterunfarm.com
2 months ago
Last year I kept a small home warm with two wood cookstoves! The overwhelming knowledge that I could be making food storage by drying foods was overwhelming, alas the season passed and all I managed was some tasty pumpkin seeds, however I did burn a bit in the oven. This upcoming winter I want to go wild. I want to reliably put up a whole freezers worth of jerky with all that wasted upwards heat. I want to build a large drying rack that can safely hold upto 100 lbs of food. I'm talking drying fruit, mushrooms, herbs, jerky and even substantial hams or fish pieces. I want it to be adjustable in height from the stove to the ceiling, and even to have to option of adding several layers of drying racks, or holding up large pieces of meat, above the heat. I've done some research on ideas and I want your thoughts or opinions on how you would do it. I've seen several drying racks that are awesome! However they would keep me up all night, every night, they use a rope and do a cool figure 8 knot that keeps the rack in the correct position, but I would fear a kid, or animal, or some gnarly huge spider would undo the knot in the middle of the night and send a wooden platform burning over top of the stove and burn the whole house down! Here is a great example of the awesome drying rack, but it is only held up by a figure 8 knott:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a6DnQL4E2L0


I want a redundant system that would be able to crank higher with manual easy, (even with 100 lbs of food up there) And also be locked, or have safety redundancies. I would hate however to use an an electric pulley, or something that would require electric, as I know its possible to lift it with a proper pulley.

Here is my closest working idea on how i would do this, thanks to these ingenious young boys: The system requires 9 pulleys and one hoist.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9UxhXnp1mcg


More on pulley science:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M2w3NZzPwOM


Here is an example of a steel system on a small scale that sits directly on the stove, much too small for my needs.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xPID83WlzC0


Drying clothes is also great but frankly I doubt I should hang flammable cloth above the stove unless I need it dry really fast... Maybe that was the practical use of the clothing iron...
2 months ago
I was just offered a pair of "feral" male and female donkeys that can breed. I've been struggling with having a successful pasture raised egg situation due to predators, many times this has made me consider a livestock guardian dog, what is the realistic possibility of having a donkey protect a flock of mixed birds instead? I have another herd of cattle, but i've never struggled with predator problems with them, they are black angus and I live in Ohio, where the worst predator we have is the coyotes and occasional stray black bear. Bobcats, are rare and mountain lions are much much more rare. For the chickens/ducks the main struggle is stray dogs killing large numbers mid day, foxes snagging one or two mid day, and raccoons finding a way in the chicken house at night.

r ranson wrote:The biggest risk of lead is breathing dust (like from sanding).  Please take precautions. Asbestos is also a worry as that was used in houses long after lead paint was banned. Asbestos causes more harm, over shorter time, with less exposure.  This is also most risky when breathed.

Next risk come ingestion, and the least (but still not safe) is from absorption through the skin.  But these are infinitesimal compared to the risk from sanding and breathing dust.

The simplest way is to leave the old paint and create a barrier.  Most old houses I've seen deal with this by building a false ceiling below the old one using modern materials.

Added advantage is this adds an air gap that helps with insulation.

Another barrier is to put new paint on top, but if it's pealing, that needs dealing with first (we are back to risky sanding) and it's probably oil paint which usually needs specific paint to stick to it long term.



The added layer of insulation is grand! but in my experience it gives rodents a place to hide where my cats can't reach them... I also may struggle to find a way to place a drying rack with a less sturdy ceiling between the rack and the sturdy ceiling.
2 months ago

Pearl Sutton wrote:Personally, I'd put several good thick coats of elastomeric paint over it. That makes things waterproof, I expect it would constrain the lead paint.

I hate sheet-rocking over my head. It's heavy!  I'd use wood paneling on 2x4 studs rather than sheet rock. But if I were doing that, I'd still give it elastomeric paint before I did. Lead dust is not a thing to skimp on, and it will continue flaking if not glued in by something evil (like that paint) and the flakes will wander out cracks.

So my vote would be a glue it down hard layer of some sort, followed if desired by a ceiling smoothing layer of some sort. But I would NOT skip the glue down layer, and regular cheap paint won't be mean enough.  



according to chat GPT putting elastomeric paint above a woodstove with a drying rack between the paint and the stove is a bad idea, as it may leech toxic fumes into the drying food... SO SCRAP THAT IDEA... A cheap solution i just thought of is using aluminum foil like you get at walmart and somehow sealing it to the drywall ceiling.

Chat GPT wrote:
Using elastomeric paint above a wood cookstove is not a safe option, particularly when there's a food drying rack between the stove and the ceiling. Here's why:

🔥 Why It's a Risk
1. Elastomeric Paint Isn't Heat-Resistant
Elastomeric coatings are designed for exterior walls and roofs for flexibility and waterproofing—not high heat.

Most are rated only up to 150–200°F (65–93°C). A wood stove can radiate heat to ceilings well above this, especially directly above it.

Off-gassing risk: When overheated, elastomeric paint may release toxic fumes, especially problematic near food.

2. Proximity to Food
A drying rack between the stove and ceiling means food is directly in line with:

Heat

Rising fumes

Potential off-gassing from paint

Even if the paint doesn’t visibly burn, volatile organic compounds (VOCs) could contaminate drying food.

✅ Better Alternatives
For Ceilings Above a Stove:
Use heat-resistant paint specifically rated for high temperatures (e.g., Rust-Oleum High Heat, or stove/fireplace paint).

Use a metal heat shield or cement board above the stove instead of paint if protection is needed.

Maintain clearances per stove manufacturer specs—often 36" or more to combustibles.

For Food Drying Areas:
Ensure food drying is done in an area with:

Clean, food-safe surfaces

Good air circulation

Protection from smoke/fumes

Avoid drying food in areas exposed to any kind of non-food-safe coatings or adhesives.

Summary
Do not use elastomeric paint above a wood cookstove, especially where food is drying. It poses a heat and toxicity hazard. Use heat-rated paint or a non-combustible barrier instead.

Let me know your ceiling material or layout if you'd like specific safer options.

2 months ago

Pearl Sutton wrote:Personally, I'd put several good thick coats of elastomeric paint over it. That makes things waterproof, I expect it would constrain the lead paint.

I hate sheet-rocking over my head. It's heavy!  I'd use wood paneling on 2x4 studs rather than sheet rock. But if I were doing that, I'd still give it elastomeric paint before I did. Lead dust is not a thing to skimp on, and it will continue flaking if not glued in by something evil (like that paint) and the flakes will wander out cracks.

So my vote would be a glue it down hard layer of some sort, followed if desired by a ceiling smoothing layer of some sort. But I would NOT skip the glue down layer, and regular cheap paint won't be mean enough.  


Thanks so much I think this is the best option for me, grinding off the paint residue seems like it will be impossible without removing the Lath and boards against the joists, which I really don't want to do. I do hope however that the paint is heat resistant because a wood cookstove will be under all of this, The drop ceiling could help with the aesthetics of the whole room, however I also want to have a very large drying rack. It will be best to secure a drying rack to the sturdiest support in the ceiling. Pic related is similar to the goal, but this video is more of what i'm going for:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a6DnQL4E2L0
3 months ago
I have a really old house with lead paint on the ceiling of the kitchen i need ideas of what i could do to prevent that lead paint form getting into my food! The ceiling is lath and plaster, so as I
tried scraping off the paint with a wire brush grinder it started rubbing off the plaster, which I really don't want to do because the lath seems to provide better insulation and support. Scraping it by hand seems impossible because much of the paint tis still very stuck to the top. The next option would be to simply cover it with some sort of drop ceiling, or paneling, but there is plumbing on the under side of the ceiling, however I also have a woodstove in here and I want to have some sort of food drying rack. What are your thoughts or ideas? Let me know! Thanks.
3 months ago