Andy Bhill

Thought I’d update this thread. I’m unable to build this and use it due to insurance company. Even though the local office that I deal with did take the time to learn about this style of heater, he likes the idea and understands how it works. He actually wants one now. We spent several days discussing it and it basically came down to the underwriters didn’t want to insure it because of ul approved. I do understand their point and they understand mine. I have to have insurance!!  Want to thank everyone for your time and help.

Matt thank you for the link. I’ve read about the isa but haven’t saw the thread about steel and the 20%. Good to know. What I have been doing is the weight of the tank. I’m going through the numbers several times to convince myself I’m even close. But maybe others will have the correct answer. Let’s say I have 480# mild steel, raise the temperature from 50 to 400 degrees in a hr, that will take 7-8kw hr.... convert to btu. I think I guess a 6” box would hold about 15# of wood, that’s around 80k in btu depending on type/moisture etc. But I could be way off on my thinking, it’s happened before

This evening I made a base and added a way to level it once tank is welded to it. Thought this would look good.

Thanks Satamax for the info. I decided to just build what I’ve been thinking about. So I pull the tank out and put in on rollers so I can start cutting the extra junk off and remove the paint. I figured I’d post pics as I build it and people could give advice or straight up tell me I’m wrong.

Satamax Antone wrote:

Andy Bhill wrote:

Satamax Antone wrote:My only reply will be, big batch.

https://permies.com/t/44806/Cobbling-workshop-heater-cooktop-oven  

Heating 635m3 iirc. Going sometimes down to -20c°

Thanks for the link. That is a big boy. How was the steaks?  I like the idea of cooking on a stove.

It's hard to learn to cook on it. Controlling the temps, or even knowing the temps is complicated. But i get better at it. The oven was a lovely addition. The top of the firebox plate, is perfect for stews, and sizing steaks. Thought, that stinks the whole place.


The things i would do differently now, is less, metallic surface, for less fast heat. Because it overheats the place, and more mass. I think leaving just the firebox and oven door, plus the cooking plate is sufficient for my fast heat needs. Mind you, when it's real cold, it might not be. It's hard to find a happy medium.

How big of area are you heating? As I search it’s hard to get all the info on people builds. Knowing you go down to -20c helps me. My winters average around freezing at nights. Couple yrs ago was the coldest in 20yrs. Had about 7-9 days below freezing dipping down to -10c at nights. Shop never go below 11c last winter. I have to covert as I’m use to Fahrenheit here.

Glenn Herbert wrote:I think part of the DSR combustion effectiveness is the change in direction from firebox to top box, and rotating the top box might reduce that effect. Flow would be able to go more directly from firebox to exhaust and create less beneficial turbulence.

Fair enough. I’m only a couple  weeks into learning and the reason I ask is due to the size tank I’d like to use. With the firebox on the outside would allow more area in the bell. I have to consider the bell is 3/8 think and could use a bigger riser. But it’s my thinking based on what I know now. That could change if it’s all wrong.


Sorry Todd!! Not trying to throw your thread off.

Satamax Antone wrote:My only reply will be, big batch.

https://permies.com/t/44806/Cobbling-workshop-heater-cooktop-oven  

Heating 635m3 iirc. Going sometimes down to -20c°

Thanks for the link. That is a big boy. How was the steaks?  I like the idea of cooking on a stove.

It relies entirely on aerodynamics and under atmospheric pressure


That makes sense to me. It’s not a internal combustion engine. Doesn’t have the ability to change rpm’s unless it’s forced with air.

Peter van den Berg wrote:

Matt Todd wrote:Turns out the guy who designed this core (Peter Van Den Berg) was running a little 4 inch core for his tests in 55 gallon drums.

Not entirely correct, it happened to be a 5" system, quite tiny still.

Since you are here and I’m just in the process of learning. I do have one question,  when the p traps are installed to induce air, have you tried one that would come out in the center of the secondary burn camber at the bottom?  The only reason I ask is due to what I know about car injection systems. The carburetor came first then there was throttle body fuel injection, then port fuel injection and now cars have direct port injection where fuel is delivered straight into the cylinder.

Matt Todd wrote:

Andy Bhill wrote:Yeah those pages had me going back and forth. I don’t have all the 3D stuff but a quick sketch is something like this.

Edit. Pic needs turned 90 degrees. Haven’t figured this site out yet

Ok, I guess that's kinda how I did imagine it. That should work just fine... but it makes the structure more awkward in needing support and you lose the ability to use the top box for an oven or just a window. And seeing the secondary fire burn is half the magic of this design

The Sketchup 3D program was too difficult for me to make anything decent with. But I did find it possible to use for measuring and scaling up Peters existing designs and verifying my calculations.  

I’m just going to learn a lot more and figure out a size for the tank I have. Yes I do like the secondary burn is amazing. The metal work will be a piece of cake for me but those white boards and chemicals you did is where my ignorance comes in.