Tay Ob

Part of what I am debating is whether it is better to (1) insulate the steel and have it on the interior side of the framing or (2) have it on the exterior part of framing to prevent any contact between the interior walls and the metal. (1) has the advantage of reducing the cold air in contact with the metal, which reduces the chances of condensation, however, the bottom of the steel frame will still be in contact with the cold air since this part of the trailer will be exposed. On the other hand, (2) won't allow the inevitable condensation from contacting the warmer wood on the interior walls; is having condensation in contact with the sheathing an issue?

I'm not sure which one is better? or if it is just safer to remove the steel all together?

https://ibb.co/gyW0DCG

So my current plan is to keep the existing steel framing on the walls, yet cut out the roof and build a pitched roof with lumber. I am think I will use 2x4 studs in amongst the steel wall framing in order to frame in windows and a door as well as provide some additional room for rockwool insulation. This will allow me to easily attach the sheathing to the outside and also attach interior wood to the inside. However, my main concern with using the steel framing is the moisture that will collect on the metal due to condensation. This will be in direct contact with the sheathing and some of the framing, which would likely result in rotting relatively quickly. Does anyone have some suggestions on how to prevent this? Can I wrap the metal in something? Thanks!

Thanks Scott! I wouldn't have thought of that.

Thanks Nikolis!

I finally got to see trailer in person and the steel framing seems pretty sturdy; I may just have to do some rust removal and put on a fresh protective coating. I also measured the width of the trailer and the whole width is 96" (it was 93" inside of the framing). This may change your opinion on the insulation.

Can you send a link for the type of rockwool panels that you are referring to please? Are you suggesting putting it on the outside of the metal framing? How does the sheathing/siding attach to this? Sorry, I am a bit unsure of the ordering of materials you suggested from the inside out.

I am on Vancouver Island, so it is a relatively cold climate, and moisture is definitely an issue. What will I need to do in order to prevent, say, condensation on the metal from affecting the other materials?

I would also like to have a wood siding and plenty of windows. Is this possible with the method you suggested?

Thanks again.

Thanks Eliot!

Yes, that is the alternative; remove the upright structure all together and just frame from scratch. I'm definitely interested in hearing other opinions on this!

For additional stability, perhaps I can leave a few metal uprights where I am confident they will not interfere with any windows, etc?

Another question I have is regarding the gooseneck platform. Most gooseneck trailers that are built specifically for tiny homes seem to have a rectangular steel platform on the gooseneck, but as you can see from the photo, there is only the triangular metal frame there. Is it ok to frame a floor directly onto this if I bolt it directly to the steel frame and attach it to the wall framing from the rest of the house? or do I need to weld a steel platform down first?

Thanks again!

Thank you for the suggestions!

There won't be a loft above the main deck; I plan to knock down part of the front wall and build stairs to a bedroom above the gooseneck.

The current height (ground to roof) is 130.5" and the limit is 160". The current width is 93" and the limit is 102". So I will be going for the max legal size for a private owner.

I am thinking of cutting out the existing roof entirely and framing a pitched roof instead. With sheathing, siding, roof overhang, and gutters, I should be getting close to the width limit. By cutting out the existing roof, My ceiling height will be extended a bit, which would otherwise start to become limited due to adding the floor framing, etc.

To give more room for insulation and make it easier to attach the sheathing, etc., I plan to attach 2x4s to the existing metal frames. I like the idea of not having to worry as much about the structural integrity by using the existing frame, but I am open to ideas.

How does this sound?

Thanks again!

Hi William,
For the most part sedentary, though I expect to move it once it is built to a location where I can live for an extended period of time.
I haven't gotten my hands on it yet, but I don't think there are any issues with the roof. As for the walls, the trailer originally came without walls attached to the frame.
Thanks!

Hi there,
I am looking for general suggestions on how to be utilize a trailer that has existing steel framing on the walls. The tube frames are 2″x2″ and the height from ground to the ceiling is 130.5″ (therefore the walls are 8′ tall). Here is a link to an image of the trailer:

https://ibb.co/8msxHb3


I would like to cut out at least some of the front wall and turn the gooseneck landing into a bedroom.

What I am unsure of is how to best insulate and frame the house. Should I attach 2x4s to the steel frame? Should I remove the ceiling entirely? Any suggestions are much appreciated.
Thanks