Thanks for taking the time to tell about your experience with the toaster/oven. I bought one of the "reconditioned" ones because I falsely assumed that when the factory "reconditioned" it, they removed whatever bugs and failed components were defective. I was fortunate in getting a 2 year warranty for about $8, since I only had 90 days manufacturer warranty. The unit is only used six months a year, as we are snowbirds and just before the two year extended warranty when added to the 90 day warranty was running out...... my unit failed. The Extended Warranty offered me about 80% of what I paid as settlement, which I accepted because I was not sure how much inconvenience it would be to get it to a repair facility and back home.
Not wanting to throw it out when it was still in like new condition, I carefully pulled it apart (after some minor cuts on hand before using gloves) and like you, was a bit puzzled by how it should come apart. After removing all the screws described in a later posting and faced with the "clinched clips in the front lower sides, a bit of a struggle released the cover. Running a meter detected the bad door switch which had not only failed, it allowed electric to flow at times (when touched lightly). I am trying to read the data on the switch that seems unreadable because of scorching, but interested if the amperage of the micro door switch is meant to carry the amount of amps required for all heating elements and fan? I am surprised that the switch is rated 125V 20amp and failed. Is it possible the switch doesn't make good contact and tends to arc? This is not about ONE switch but rather about multiple and dangerous failures, especially since the switch is NOT a full disconnect. For an unit that may be opened several times while under FULL power, the danger of arcing is very possible and dangerous. Will consider replacing the micro-switch but may have to resort to the more drastic "bypass". Since my adjusted cost is less than $40, it will be easier to toss it when it loses its usefulness.
