Ben Charles

Hi Douglas, thanks for the welcome.

Yes, the Inkbird controller uses 120V. I unfortunately have been unable to find any wiring diagrams from the manufacturer.

Austin Laureski wrote:Not sure what your looking for but I build and repair coolers and freezers for a living. The coolbot is a neat controller but wouldn't classify it as efficient. Freezers use different gas then coolers and require more horsepower then coolers. I wouldn't use a window banger for anything else than what it was built for. Please clarify the question and I can try to help.

Hey Austin, I know this post is a few years old but if you see this, I could use some help. I'm trying to make a DIY version of the coolbot using an Inkbird ITC-1000 to keep the compressor running when the temperature is above setpoint and a Johnson Controls A19ABA-40C low limit temperature switch to prevent the coil from freezing. I got this to work on a smaller AC but it didn't have enough capacity to cool the room down as low as I wanted. I got a larger AC unit but I'm unsure how to wire it because on this one the compressor is wired into a capacitor and the thermistor is a 28 gauge wire going into a control board I'm worried about frying. I made a post about it here: https://permies.com/t/187503/Voltage-Wiring-Walk-Cooler

Any advice or aiming me in the right direction is much appreciated.

Thanks!

Ralph Kettell wrote:For those of you who might be interested, I will put on my engineer hat  and tell you very briefly how the coolbot works...

Ralph, I know this post is a few years old but if you see this, I could use some help. I'm trying to make a DIY version of the coolbot using an Inkbird ITC-1000 to keep the compressor running when the temperature is above setpoint and a Johnson Controls A19ABA-40C low limit temperature switch to prevent the coil from freezing. I got this to work on a smaller AC but it didn't have enough capacity to cool the room down as low as I wanted. I got a larger AC unit but I'm unsure how to wire it because on this one the compressor is wired into a capacitor and the thermistor is a 28 gauge wire going into a control board I'm worried about frying. I made a post about it here: https://permies.com/t/187503/Voltage-Wiring-Walk-Cooler

Any advice or aiming me in the right direction is much appreciated.

Thanks!

Hello all, I am attempting to make a small storage room on the back of my house into a walk in cooler for dry aging chicken, pork, venison, etc. using a window AC unit. I got the idea from this guy here: https://archeryrob.wordpress.com/2017/11/07/deer-cooler-with-a-diy-coolbot-clone/  

Basically one controller (Inkbird) keeps a contact closed, running the compressor as long as the temperature is above the setpoint. There is also a low temperature limit switch which opens a contact if the temperature gets too low, to prevent the coil from freezing. I did this with a cheap widow AC I had and it functions, but the unit did not have enough capacity to get the room down to the desired 40°F

I found a larger 12,000 BTU AC, but when I opened it I found is wired differently from the smaller AC. The original small AC had a 16 gauge wire coming from the compressor into a small box that was connected to the temperature control dial. This also had the wire to the thermistor coming out of it. I cut that wire, connected it from the compressor to the Inkbird, Inkbird to the low limit temperature switch, switch to the thermostat dial/thermistor on the AC. The new 12,000 BTU unit has the wiring from the compressor going into a capacitor and some 28 gauge wire from the thermistor into a control board. I'm unsure how to proceed and I'm worried about frying the control board troubleshooting. Attached is a picture of the controls board area of the new AC unit. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.