Paul Stockton

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since Oct 17, 2022
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Recent posts by Paul Stockton

Ya..umm, I didn't check the date of the original post...geez.
1 year ago
I'm known for wild ideas, especially when I have a good feeling I could pull it off.  However,  you'll be wasting a lot of energy, for the insurance that pipes won't freeze, and as another member stated, probably hasn't happened in the past.
If I were to try the "air" method, I'd probably try to run an attached, insulated horizontal duct into the crawlspace, over to the pipe area, somehow encase some of the pipes within the ducts, and then, return that air back into the living space.  The booster fan  could be mounted horizontally in the crawlspace, and set on a timer, a basic air filter..... geez...don't do it this way....
I think you nailed it with the electric heat tape.   I'd use the pipe tape.  It is much simpler and has a thermostat in the plug.    Try to prioritize any pipe that is 2-3ft from an outside wall.  Secure it in place with tape, cover it with  pipe insulation (per mfg recommendation).   You could go all fancy and get the foam 90° or TEE shapes, but those pieces just add cost and would not be required...you'll figure out how to get maximum coverage.  It is also OK to go up  1/4" on pipe insulation to make space for the heat tape.
Keep in mind, you don't have to have heat tape along the whole length of pipe to be effective as heat will transfer from the metal and water in the pipe.  I would probably insulate most all of the pipe.  I'll bet you  would be surprised at how warm the crawl space is on a typical 0F° night.  However, if you have several days of -10F nights and the house is empty, the pipes could freeze, or worse.
(With the heat tape, you could (should) use an extension cord to make sure the plug is under crawl space.  That way, if it is 25F° outside, but the crawlspace temp is still 45F, the heat tape will now consume energy....
Good luck.


1 year ago

Dave Lotte wrote:

Paul Stockton wrote:You might try using 3 or 4" wood lawn edging....



Just need to find it 10 inches wide 😁



...discarded, used conveyor belt, clamps, and asphalt glue.... for both frame and door.  Incorporate a "step" to facilitate a jam....
You might try using 3 or 4" wood lawn edging. It's about 3/16" and very flexible.  Make your outside perimeter and then sprial in about 3 or 4" with glue between each spiral, add screws as needed.... It's called "bender board" in theses parts.   I do enjoy your project updates....

So, imagine this coil, the diameter of your door...
Looks cozy but won't work.  What causes the draft needed to make a rocket stove to work is the temperature differential between the internal Insulated riser and the exposed uninsulated barrel.  From there, a long, tall chimney...(and in-between those would be thermal mass).  If you were to pursue this design, consider a mattress on top of the thermal mass would act more as insulation and won't radiate the heat stored in the thermal mass.
1 year ago
Here's a good article from the builditsolar.com website I commented about earlier....

https://www.builditsolar.com/Projects/Sunspace/LTMSSGuide/LTMSSGuide.htm
1 year ago
I bought the window screen frame kits from " the friendly hardware man" (frame material much stronger than the major home improvement stores).  Then, bought the window insulation kit (cellophane and double-sided tape and made my own double later  "storm window inserts" to fit tightly, with the aid of weatherstripping material, inside the window sill.  Just be sure to shrink both sides, and only shrink it a little or you will warp the frame.  Visibility through the plastic is very good.
1 year ago
I am not a pro, but I'd do water.  Water solar systems can be enhanced with additional panels easier and augmented with boilers.  Air systems would be difficult to augment with a fuel based furnace, lest there is a "high-velocity blower" involved, due to the small diameter of the pipe/duct. Water systems do need special care and maintainance in areas prone to icy conditions.  
If you want an air based system, consider a well Insulated, sealed sunroom-type collector. (Think...4-10ft wide, running the length of your southern-exposed wall.
Some ideas.... builditsolar.com ...
1 year ago
If you were interested...

https://oupower.com/phpBB/

Site includes projects that have worked and readings of projects that didn't.

Relative to this site interests:
Windmills, watersheds, circuits, energy-efficient projects, solar, etc....
1 year ago
Yes, mirrors can improve performance by reflecting more sunlight than what would normally shine through window.  They are called heliostats and can also be put on sun trackers.  They also don't  necessarily need to be put adjacent to the window...such as 50' away. You could also build "shutters" having a mirror on one side, insulated, and a tracker to shutter the window over night....
1 year ago