Daniel Barrett

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since Jun 03, 2023
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Recent posts by Daniel Barrett

Yeah, the temp rating is a concern.  I was hoping that by applying it just to the rim, which will be nestled in insulated refractory, it won't be exposed to the full heat, but it's probably wishful thinking as the glass itself will conduct heat to the rim region.  

I've seen higher temp coatings, but they tend to get expensive, and this was supposed to for cheap prototyping.....  I'll try to arrange the primary air to wash over the door to keep it cooler, and shield the silicone from direct radiation and air as mentioned above.  We'll see if it fails spectacularly or not.
2 years ago
I had a very successful  composted-charcoal  tomato plant experiment last year.

I had just started using charcoal in my compost piles as a carbon source the previous year, and this was the first use.  

First, I make my charcoal by burning soft and hard wood tree clipping on my property and dousing the fire with water after the coal bed builds up.  I'm hoping to get a little "steam blast" action to create more pores and lighten the charcoal.

So, burying the lede here,   I planted a tomato plant in a  1.5ft deep hole completely filled with my compost-charcoal mix. It proceeded to thrive through a drought we had WITHOUT WATERING.   It completely blew my mind.  I woke up every day expecting it to be dead.  But instead it fruited.  Harvest wasn't huge and tomatoes were small, but the lawn around it was dead, dead, dead.

End of season I pulled up the plant and the roots had completely interwoven and penetrated many charcoal nodules  which came up with the plant.  I was surprised just how firmly the plant was hanging onto that charcoal.   So,  I think there's zero argument that the charcoal helped make it a better mix.  The only question is how much of the boost was from water-holding,  nutrient storage, and  symbiotic bacteria living in the charcoal.  I'm also speculating  the charcoal was able to grab and hold water from the brief rain we did have during the drought.

I found a article last year where some university had tested charcoal amendment along side compost and the compost-with-charcoal technique.  They found a 10% yield gain when charcoal is part of the composting process vs just adding it later.

Also, I'm wondering if charcoal is speeding up composting itself.  I'm in Massachusetts, so our our summers get pretty warm.  I process/chop all new greens with a  liter or two of old compost to inoculate it and increase the surface area exposed to bacterial action.  I then cover the batch with some old material.
 Starting in June, a fresh load will be fully composted in 5 to 7 days.  I don't know if that's normal, but it sure seems fast.  I'm wondering if it has to do with charcoal helping with aeration and/or easy carbon source from charcoal dust.
2 years ago
So.... I found an old thread here on Permies where others have tried Visions pyroceram lids in the past, and still gotten some shattering issues.   I'm still going to try using the lids I got, but with a slight modification.  I'm going to cover the rim with high-temp silicone caulk.

Breaking risk goes up with scratches and nicks in the glass.  They concentrate stresses and lead to early failure.  And it's easy to get scratches when your door mates against  a refractory mix stove and also possibly putting the lid down on rough surfaces.

So, maybe the failures seen were due to a combo of scratches and lots of thermal cycles.  If true, then coating the mating surface in high-temp silicone to prevent scratching should increase the glass lifetime.  Also, if the caulk is applied thick enough, it's also a buffer against thermal shock when you put the lid down somewhere.

I'll post if it fails massively.....
2 years ago
I actually ordered 3 to have extras, and not have to pay shipping again if one breaks.    These are for prototype ovens.   It's not obvious to me how to build a metal door with a window, and also  NeoCeram seems to go for ~$50 for a 6"x4" piece.   So I'm prototyping with a casserole plunge-door to avoid the cost and skill issues for now.

I suppose finding used / broken woodstoves and stealing their doors would also solve both problems for me, but I don't know a source for that.
2 years ago
So, I like the idea of the casserole doors but while standard pyrex should be able to handle 900F,  it's boro silicate glass still prone to cracking from thermal shock.

I just found out that Corning/Pyrex has recently re-introduced a line of Pyroceram cookware called "Visions", than is rated to 1,560F and better able to handle thermal shock.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Visions_(cookware)

There's a  8.25"  diameter lid for $8  (+$6 shipping).  It's a smokey color, and round  vs oblong of a true casserole lid.  Cheaper than Neo-ceram!

https://www.pyrexhome.com/product/glass-lid-2.35-liter-dutch-oven-pot-or-2.5-liter-saucepan-0

2 years ago