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Liam Alderdice wrote:
thomas rubino wrote:Hey Liam;
Very clean-looking build you have there.
Peter thought it looked like a 6" system, I think it looks larger like maybe an 8".
I would like to see the transition area better. Is that one continuous pipe or two legs?
How much pipe do you have, not counting the vertical rise?
At this point before cobbing, you could easily change from pipes to a bell system.
Bells are so much easier to run than a piped system.
I have an 8" piped system that started with an 8" J-Tube feeding it. Worked great!
That same piped system is now fed by a 6" batchbox, it also works great, but only once it is completely warmed up.
It does need to use its 4" bypass anytime it is not warmed up.
If you are happy with your draft then start cobbing over those pipes, they are a part of the condensation issue.
This is a 6 inch system with just over 6m of flu in the bench and around 4m of vertical flu out the roof. The top couple metres in the loft will be insulated. I've installed a Y inline with the vertical flu incase I need to preheat it (Venturi?)
I understand how the system works but calculating surface areas and knowing what I need to subtract confuses me so would love some help there!
Unfortunately I can't really afford to buy new materials right now so if the cob doesn't work I'll have to build a bell system. Or install a bypass if that'll work.
I'll add some more images
thomas rubino wrote:Hey Liam;
Very clean-looking build you have there.
Peter thought it looked like a 6" system, I think it looks larger like maybe an 8".
I would like to see the transition area better. Is that one continuous pipe or two legs?
How much pipe do you have, not counting the vertical rise?
At this point before cobbing, you could easily change from pipes to a bell system.
Bells are so much easier to run than a piped system.
I have an 8" piped system that started with an 8" J-Tube feeding it. Worked great!
That same piped system is now fed by a 6" batchbox, it also works great, but only once it is completely warmed up.
It does need to use its 4" bypass anytime it is not warmed up.
If you are happy with your draft then start cobbing over those pipes, they are a part of the condensation issue.
thomas rubino wrote:Very common Liam.
Quite a few first/second, and even third burns have drips.
Covering the flue is very important to keep the cooling air traveling out of your chimney.
Exposed pipes radiate too much heat.
The wood you are burning can also be a source of moisture.
Tape your pipe joints with metal tape, cob over all that should be.
If you used a mortar and had wet bricks, all need to be dried.
How about some pictures of your build.
Liam Alderdice wrote:Here are a few photos of the room and ceiling. I have laid the flu out in the rough shape I'd like the bench to be so you can get an idea.
Scott Weinberg wrote:
Liam Alderdice wrote:
Hey Thomas,
I will be building a 6-in batch box tubed bench design. I was thinking of using the water containers upright so they are strong and flat on the ground. I did think of making it so I could refill the water but that might lead to more hassle in the long run.
💚
I presume you know that for safety sakes, your water set up would have to be open for steam prevention reasons. And if your system is open, you will always be faced with evaporation, And with a 6" system, depending on your water location, (steam would be evident, right quick--- so refilling will be a must, not sure if you meant using water will be more hassle, or refilling the water???
I have used water in various amounts, and I would not consider it a slow release of heat, but that depends a bit on the radiator system. You never said, again if the 25L was a typo, or was your actual intended amount. 25L is not much for heat storage.
Nancy Reading wrote:The mass of the bench itself in a ducted cob bench stores the heat pretty well for most situations, I believe. You don't say what climate you are in, but take a look at the second video in Paul's post here: https://permies.com/t/231359/evidence-rocket-mass-heaters-efficient#2012171. Andrew is based in Caithness, Scotland and has a relatively small bench in his living room that is also exposed into the bathroom, but he claims it heats his house comfortably now. He also has a great build video that is worth a watch if you are thinking of doing something similar. In short, I don't think you need extra mass if you have access to good quality clay.
As regards heating water on the barrel and circulating it round the bedrooms. Please do take care! It is easy to have a serious explosion when water and heat mix! In a bungalow you don't have the option of gravity circulating, so will be reliant more on electric pump to move the water in the circuit. I have seen something done in Devon - Sagara was setting up a radiant floor system on one of his Rocket mass heaters ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DR5sv0r8-lw), but it all looked very complicated to me! One of Paul's videos has an underfloor ducted system, which looked interesting, (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6lUCOowOmJ8) the flue ducting and firebox is set into the floor rather than a bench. Unfortunately I can't find a follow up video to see how it worked - the downside again is that involves digging up your whole floor, which may not be an option!
I think a combination of radiant heat (situating the heater in the wall between rooms like Andrew) and air circulation (ducting or fans to circulate heated air around) would be simpler and a lot less expensive. In Erica and Ernies book (which I recommend if you haven't got a copy) there are several discussions of layout that may be of help.
Fox James wrote:Ok, so I think your idea would be to use 25l plastic containers alongside the piped bench or somehow incorporated in the bench?
Personally I would study how a bell works rather than a piped option and depending on the look of your house a bell may look a lot better than a barrel.