A. Root

Anne Miller wrote:

A Root said, All the smoke will exit the attic an it will be use to preserve the shingles and smoke meat.

Too dangerous a situation.  Nifty idea.

Smoke sometimes has ember that might catch the attic on fire.

Mr Google said,  The height creates a stronger draft, which improves airflow and ensures efficient combustion, preventing smoke from backing up into the house. A chimney that's too short can lead to inadequate venting, fire hazards, and poor air quality

In this case I will extend the chimney to exit the roof.

I'm more interested on the technical bit of the fireplace construction.

John C Daley wrote:Have you looked at old images of these?
Do you really need the mud?

This is interesting https://www.medieval.eu/open-hearths-ovens-fireplaces/

Yes I need the clay/mud because I'm copying a museum one. But that one has wood in it's core structure and wood planks for it's smoke chamber:) which for me is a no no.

From the site that you have pointed mine is at the "“Stube” the beginning of the 16th century from Fränkischer Frelichtmuseum" tiled stove but without tiles, level.

Hello again. I will need some advice regarding planing for a fireplace.
So please let ignore the regulations for a moment and try to make a theoretical exercise.
Let's say a wood cabin with an internal fireplace on the middle internal wall (or close to it). All the smoke will exit the attic an it will be use to preserve the shingles and smoke meat.
I have attached below scheme.

The legend is red-brown line are brick, black line is the smoke chamber (steel sheet welded) and the smoke pipe. Blue parts is where the interested bit comes, I'm thinking a metal frame welded (a scheleton box) and covered on the sides with chicken wire mesh and plaster with earth and straw. There are two kind of this boxes one on top of another. Everything is plastered at the end with clay and limewash.

Is this a achievable plan? Do anyone has any experience with cob fireplaces and plastering a wire mesh?

Thank you.

Benjamin Dinkel wrote:If you have so much of it you could also use it on the outside and use lime just in the last layer. Make a plaster with fiber and/or more coarse sand for the first layer and then use a mix with finer sand and lime for the last layer.

I forgot to mention that I limewash everything clay or lime or or brick. But you are talking about a proper lime layer. I have seen a post on wide internet of someone totally opposed to the idea.

Cristobal Cristo wrote:If someone is building from Porotherm then there are a low chances that someone would like to use clay plaster, especially for the exterior. I would assume clay/earth plasters are used for 3 reasons:

-cheap and widely available material
-improving interior atmosphere of the rooms
-compatibility with earth buildings

In case of Porotherm it would be the first reason.
When I build from fired clay bricks I always use lime plaster. It adheres well, looks gorgeous and will last.

I'm changing to Porotherm from logs and reason is cost and woodworm. What I don't want to change is clay plaster even if like will be the chosen one in the end. All the excavation of the basement will give so much good clay and it will be a pity not to use it. But maybe I can use it in the interior and for exterior to go with lime.

Hello,

Does anybody have experience with clay plastering monolithic blocks like Porotherm? I have seen some internal walls examples but never on external walls.

Thanks.