John Carr

+ Follow
since Sep 25, 2025
Merit badge: bb list bbv list
For More
Apples and Likes
Apples
Total received
In last 30 days
1
Forums and Threads

Recent posts by John Carr

Anne Miller wrote:I have read a lot about rubble trench foundations here on the forum and the use of drain pipe and synthetic geotextile fabric is new to me.

https://permies.com/t/121202/rubble-trench-foundations



That's interesting, because elsewhere on the web it's always presented as necessary to have liner and a plastic drain at the bottom. E.g. https://www.buildnaturally.com/post/rubbletrench

If it were a shallow foundation and it would be relatively easy to remove the stuff years down the line, I might be willing. But I have to go 5' to get to frost depth and I don't want my grandchildren to have to excavate out a bunch of plastic. I like the idea of a compostable house.
3 days ago

Kevin Olson wrote:The need for the drain probably depends on: local soil; local terrain; local hydrology; and the type of building you are constructing.  And, local building codes will probably trump all of that.

For example, where our house is, the soil is what my neighbor terms a sandy loam, but it's quite sticky when wet.  There's enough clay that the surface of the driveway where I park cracks as it dries.  For any new construction, I'd want either a perimeter drain or battered (pitched away from the foundation) closed cell insulation, covered with a couple of layers of 6 mil poly sheet, and then back filled.  Or both.  I've managed to mitigate some leaks through the 1890s-era rock basement wall by doing the foam board and poly sheet trick, though when we get a torrential downpour out of the northeast, we still have a bit of water in the basement.  Everything important is on pallets or otherwise not directly on the floor, though, just in case.  On the other hand, at our lake property, it's pretty much beach sand, though the water table is high (or the ground is low - depends on your point of reference, I suppose).  Out there, any drainage scheme is probably both unnecessary and unhelpful.  Anything earth sheltered there will need to have earth bermed up around it, rather than excavating down below grade.  And so on,

The Northmen YT channel had a video on building a rock filled trench foundation in a very Permies-friendly and traditional way, which may be worth a watch:


The soil at this site must drain fairly well, since they repeatedly wash sand between the stones by filling the trench with water.  Their rye-flour modified mortar is interesting, too.



This is a great video, thanks for sharing and for the advice. I have pretty wet clay soils, but I feel like that can also play to my advantage if I slope the trench enough, because the clay is less likely to fragment and seep into the foundation, right?

I don't have any zoning where I am, so this is not an issue (undisclosed location in rural northern New England). And I'm not planning to do a basement because I don't want to deal with drainage and maintenance issues.
3 days ago

Glenn Herbert wrote:My land was a farm for something like 150 years before my parents bought it to build their house. Between two fields, essentially huge terraces on a hillside, was a drainage ditch which becomes a ravine. To get between fields the farmer threw rocks into the 5' or so deep gully to make a level driving surface. It still drains through the rock fill after probably 100 years or more. I have never seen the flow overtop the roadway in the heaviest storms.

I think if you start well below frost depth and slope the bottom positively, and use plenty of larger stone with little gravel or sand, you could have a dry footing for a lifetime or more.



Fascinating, thanks for this anecdote. Now I need a good source for field stone.
3 days ago

Aaron Yarbrough wrote:If you keep water away from your foundation(by having large roof overhangs, installing gutters, and grading  the landscape to move water away from the foundation) I think you will be fine not using geotextile fabric or drain pipe. I've installed drain pipe on the two rubble trench foundations I've done and I'm pretty sure it just gets crushed anyway. As an alternative to geotextile you might consider using burlap instead. It will break down eventually but should help initially to keep sediment out of your rubble trench.  Hopefully, by the time it the burlap is compromised you have the roof on and the soil around the site has stabilized so incursion isn't as much of an issue.    



That's my intuition also, that the drain pipe gets crushed or broken as the stone is compacted on top of it. I guess no one has excavated one of these trenches and reported back?

I had the same thought on the burlap.
3 days ago

Kevin Olson wrote:And, welcome to Permies, John!

If somewhat belatedly...



Thanks!
3 days ago
Hi, I'm new on here and have a question for the natural building folks out there.

I am planning to build a timber framed house and put it on a rubble trench foundation. As I research the rubble trench idea, I am concerned about a couple of elements. The rubble trench typically contains a plastic drain pipe and synthetic geotextile fabric. I'm concerned about synthetics and microplastics in the soil and I'm wondering whether these elements are completely necessary. It also seems to me that the trench liner will degrade over time anyway.

Any thoughts? If I slope the trench and make it wide enough, and the stone is packed well, will I really regret not putting in the trench liner later on?

Thanks for your thoughts.
4 days ago