Majed Almajed

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since Jul 15, 2026
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I have an elderberry tincture method written up, and before elderberry season I would rather have it picked apart by people who make one every year than find out later where it was thin.

What I have written down, in short. A fill line rather than a weight: one-third to one-half of the jar for dried berries, closer to two-thirds for fresh, with 100 proof for fresh to account for the water in the fruit, otherwise 80 proof vodka or brandy. Fresh berries steamed or briefly cooked and cooled before they go in. Only fully ripe fruit, uniformly dark purple-black and slightly soft, nothing green or red-tinged, and no leaves, bark or green stem in the jar. Four to six weeks in a dark cupboard. Top up with alcohol if the berries swell above the liquid line, since fruit sitting in air can eventually mold.

Three things I am least sure of.

The ratio is eyeballed. The sources I leaned on all give a fill line rather than a weight, though I may have been reading the wrong shelf, since I know weight-to-volume ratios exist. I cannot tell whether people who do this every year end up weighing anyway to keep batches consistent.

The four to six week window. Longer is said to give a darker, stronger result. I do not know whether that is real extraction after week four or mostly colour.

Topping up. If alcohol goes in at week two to cover risen berries, does that dilute the finished tincture in a way that matters, or is it noise?

On raw berry safety I am not reopening anything. The long toxicity and tinctures thread here covers that better than I could, and the tinctures from the homestead thread covers the general method. One thing I already think is wrong in my own write-up: it puts the steaming of fresh berries in the FAQ rather than in the method steps, which is the wrong place for it.

The write-up is on my own site, so read it as the thing being checked rather than as a source: https://growforageheal.com/elderberry-tincture/

How do you decide a batch is finished, other than counting weeks on a calendar?
1 week ago
Rose hip season is still a couple of months out here, but I'm setting up my drying racks early this year because last fall taught me some lessons the hard way.

What worked for me last season:
- Harvesting after the first light frost - the hips sweeten noticeably, but if you wait too long they go soft and mushy on the shrub.
- Halving the bigger hips before drying. Whole hips took two weeks plus to air dry and a few molded from the inside; halved ones were done in days.
- Low and slow in the dehydrator, around 95-105 F. A friend did hers in the oven at 200 F and they went dark brown and lost most of the tart flavor.
- Storing them whole (seeds in) and only grinding right before use - they seem to keep their tartness and vitamin C much better that way.

The itchy mistake: I de-seeded a big batch by hand without gloves. The fine hairs around the seeds are a genuine skin irritant - kids used to use them as itching powder - and I spent the whole evening regretting it. Gloves, or just leave the seeds in for tea.

I wrote up the full process with temperatures and timings here if it's useful: https://growforageheal.com/drying-rose-hips/

Curious what others do - do you bother de-seeding for tea, or just crush and strain? And does anyone harvest before frost on purpose?
2 weeks ago
I finally got around to turning our comfrey patch into salve this season, and after a few batches I wanted to share what actually worked, since most recipes I found skipped the details that matter.

What worked for me:
- Leaf only, never root. The pyrrolizidine alkaloid concentration is much higher in the root, so I keep the root for the compost tea and use only leaves for anything that touches skin.
- Drying the leaves first (2-3 days until crumbly) before infusing. My first attempt with fresh leaves made the oil go cloudy - too much moisture, and it molded within a month.
- Slow infusion in olive oil over a double boiler, 2-3 hours on the lowest heat. Faster stovetop infusions smelled "cooked" and lost the deep green color.
- Ratio that set well: about 1 ounce of beeswax per cup of infused oil. The spoon test (dip a cold spoon, let it set, check firmness) saved me from a too-hard batch.

What I'd do differently: label everything immediately. Comfrey salve looks identical to my plantain salve once it's in the tin, and comfrey is external-use-only on unbroken skin - not something you want to mix up with a salve you'd use on scrapes.

I wrote up the full process with measurements and the safety notes here if anyone wants the step-by-step: https://growforageheal.com/comfrey-salve-recipe/

Curious what others do with the alkaloid question - do you use comfrey salve on broken skin at all, or stick to bruises/sprains only?
3 weeks ago