david tremaine

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since Aug 08, 2011
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Recent posts by david tremaine

Dale, I really appreciated your comments on professional deconstruction, and at the risk of asking too much of you, I'd love to learn more.

I'm a young guy in Eastern Washington trying to figure out what, if anything, I want to "do" with my life. So far, salvage seems like 1) an under-represented profession in my area, 2) interesting, and 3) intermittent.
2 and 3 are tops on my list, and 1 leads me to believe a semi-smart/skilled salvager could be very successful here.

When you write a book, I'll gladly buy a copy. Meanwhile, can you offer any more helpful hints, or perhaps even walk us through a typical operation?
- What sold best? worst?
- What wasn't worth salvaging?
- Were there top-dollar items you saved, transported, stored for niche markets?
- How important is being licensed and bonded, or having insurance?
- Are companies so eager to save a couple dollars that they're willing to have someone they don't know come in, or was it that you were able to build up a good reputation?
- What, aside from absolving oneself from responsibility for hazardous waste, is important to consider in a contract?
- ***How did you get started?
- How big of a job was "too big"?
- Essential equipment that a beginner might not think of?

You seem inclined to share your knowledge; I am eager to gain it, that I (and others lurking here) might better decide on whether to pursue such a career, and if so, how best to begin.

Also, winsol, thanks for the link to BMRA. The library on their site looks like a great start 
13 years ago
JRTGirl et al:

I tend to have dry skin, and live in a dry climate, and am always dealing with sharp, dirty, splintery, potentially spider-infested things. I've found lightweight nitrile-palmed work gloves to meet my needs in many respects: keep my hands clean, provide better grip, a good fitting pair almost feels like surgical gloves yet are pretty puncture resistant, palms are moisture (think water/mud/chemical) resistant, but fabric backs allow for some airflow.
(I've tried gloves with polyurethane palms and was not impressed. Grip not so good, easy moisture penetration (which = cold hands in early spring) and the PU seemed to wear out quickly.)

Ansell Hyflex and Atlas Nitrile Touch / Nitrile Tough (check 'em out on eBay) are a couple examples of better quality (likely longer lasting, better fitting) nitrile-palmed work gloves. If you buy them at a hardware store, be ready to pay $5/pr. eBay, maybe $2 or $3, if you get a package of 5 or 10 pairs (try 'em on at Home Depot first, to know what size you want).

Farmtek.com had a deal on 'em at $1/pr (smalls only) but I can't find it on their site, so it seems those sold out.

Also, where I live, we have a place that sells what they call "industrial surplus," and they always have work gloves in a wide selection of styles and sizes, and usually at 1/3 to 1/5 the retail price. Might be worth calling around where you are...

Good luck! Good gloves (for me, at least) make all the difference.
  - David in Spokane
13 years ago