HI Lena,
People use the sawdust when using
humanure systems for several reasons: One of these is because it's easy to scoop onto the deposit. It is also used because it absorbs moisture. The primary purpose, beyond those, is to add
carbon. Because poo lands in little uneven piles which can topple in time, and these get dusted with coverings of sawdust, there are bound to be air pockets when sawdust is added with every deposit. Sawdust is otherwise potentially a bit too fine for regular compost making, as it does not add the air to the system very well unless something else that does add air (like straw) is added. If you are planning to do a 'build it and leave it system' (rather than a turn it in a week type system), then you want some air-space in the pile. Does that make sense?
When you have an
outhouse, or pit toilet, or an improperly done humanure system (where the poo has not been mixed with any carbon source-as seems to be your case), then you have very little air, and so your "old poo" is bound to be quite dense and probably anaerobic. Bad bacteria tend to thrive in such anaerobic conditions unless you are culturing things properly (like bokashi).
I think your plan, the way you are describing it, should work, but I would amend your formula somewhat. I would ensure that the poo material is broken apart (to make sure that the anaerobic bacterial colonies are taken over by aerobic systems) and mixed well with your carbon sources, particularly your sawdust. One way to do this is to do the mixing in a wheelbarrow and chopping it with a hoe. I would think that having straw under the system, as you describe, will help to give some air to it, but you might want to add some straw to your pile itself, instead of just sawdust. The straw can be a pain in the butt to chop up and mix, so just use the sawdust to work in while mixing in the wheelbarrow with the hoe. The straw can be added when you create the piles. It will add more air spaces, and thus give you a much better chance of generating aerobic conditions. Ensure that the pile is an even damp consistency (this is generally done throughout the pile layering process), but is not wet. It should have a sheen of dampness, not be saturated at all. The pile will collapse on itself after an initial hot phase that peaks a few days after building, and it will then become fairly dense again, but cooler. If you have compost worms, when you build the pile add some to the bottom or sides (where it doesn't get nearly as hot (and they will multiply and take over the pile to not only finish the job but also to add air holes throughout the pile). These air holes further the aerobic process, increases it's internal surface area, and allow for a larger diversity of microbes to have a habitat niche.
Be very cautious about handling this raw poo material. Use rubber gloves, and hose off and scrub any of your tools that come into contact with it.
Best of luck.