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Tiling over laminate counter tops

 
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Location: Myrtle Creek, Oregon
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I want to tile my back splash and kitchen counter top but it has a laminate particle board counter. I read that you need a glue and some kind of paper to lay on top of the glue then apply mastic and tile over that otherwise the tile doesn't stick right if you install it directly over the laminate.
Anyone here tried this? Also what tips do you have for the tile grout that won't stain easily? If I was staying here I'd just tear out the top and start it from scratch.
 
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I think there are sealants made specifically for grout.
You.might beable to skip the special glue and paper step if you glued and screwed some backer board onto the laminate.
I made one of my counters by stapling window screen to wood and parging on water stop cement.
Its structurally sound, but my final coat is lumpy

Out of curiosity, are you fixing it in order to sell the house?
 
Susan Boyce
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I've been wanting to do it for years and have slowly gathered all the materials I need to do the job. The house was built in 1949 updated in the 80s with the gaudiest taste. When I moved in the master bath had green and gold veined vinyl flooring that was curling up near the tub. I fixed that right away and the floor still looks great today..the counter top as well as the floor is very unattractive and doesn't flow with the rest of the rooms I have tried to brighten up. I know (especially in today's market) that selling my house will be effortless…….I would like to attract high offers, so putting in the work will be worth it. The living room/dining room is large has oak hardwood floor and a huge plywood patch was underneath the carpet…I'm close now to putting on the finish…couldn't leave this undone especially after I refinished the oak floors in 2 other rooms plus installed more in the master bedroom…I'll miss this room!
 
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I tiled my countertops when I first bought this place.  The grout, in spite of sealer, picked up every stain possible.  Debris was constantly collecting in the grout lines.
 
Susan Boyce
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Wow bummer. I would think that this can't be the case in every tiled kitchen otherwise no one would tile it. I might have to go to a pro tile shop and ask them about it too. I appreciate your input though :)
 
John F Dean
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I am sure I did something wrong. Nevertheless, this was my experience.  For starters, if I had it to do again, I would use larger tiles for fewer grout lines.k
 
Susan Boyce
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That was also my thinking so I did get some 12x 12 tiles to eliminate so many grout lines. The back splash are large as well, just need to buy the round over ones for the edge. The counter top is not rounded off it has sharp edges..
 
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I tiled my counters nearly ten years ago. I used black grout. It remains black and there are no white stains    ;)

I used the epoxy type grout and avoided sand.  The reason I chose the epoxy was, look at a KFC or heavily trafficked commercial building with tile floors. If that grout can hold up to us for a few decades, it's what I want.  I watched a guy grouting a KFC I was helping paint (new build). That is what he told me he was using, so, twenty or so years later, that's what I used.  

I used 12" tile, greatly reducing the number of lines, and that helps a lot.

Use a block of wood with sharp edges to make sure every tile is even with the one next to it so when you slide that glass of ale across the counter you don't waste the contents when it hits a speed bump (I should have given myself this tip - I have one coffee cup speed bump).

Susan Boyce wrote:Wow bummer. I would think that this can't be the case in every tiled kitchen otherwise no one would tile it. I might have to go to a pro tile shop and ask them about it too. I appreciate your input though :)


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Susan Boyce
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Thanks Kelly
Your tile job looks great and using black or a dark grout would work out so much better….
 
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Tiling over a laminate particle board counter can be a viable option to give your kitchen a fresh look without the need for a complete overhaul. The process you described, using glue and a layer of paper followed by mastic and tiles, is one approach that some DIY enthusiasts and professionals have used successfully. It helps create a suitable surface for the tiles to adhere to securely.

Before proceeding, it's essential to ensure that the laminate surface is clean, dry, and free from any grease or debris. Proper surface preparation is key to achieving a long-lasting and stable tiling job.

As for the grout, choosing the right type and applying it correctly will help prevent staining and improve its durability. Consider using epoxy grout, as it is more resistant to stains, moisture, and chemicals compared to traditional cement-based grout. Additionally, sealing the grout after it has cured can provide an extra layer of protection against staining and discoloration.

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Susan, it has been a while so I am wondering how your project came out?  Did what you were wanting work?
 
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