3. I read a good pruning book that started by saying the author learned it all by returning to
trees he had pruned one, five, fifteen years afterward.
The basics: The shape and extent of a plant is a history of which buds have grown, and how quickly. Hormones flow through the plant, shifting the odds of which bud will grow: inhibiting hormones flow down from higher parts of the plant and are destroyed by sunlight, so highest-up, farthest-out, best-lit buds tend to win. You can sever buds or pick them out to limit the plant's options. Reaching in with a thumbnail early on can keep a tree from wasting nutrients on leaves that won't catch any sun, fruit that would break it in half, or on branches that would throw it off balance or strangle other branches. Plants heal from wounds, but they heal better if the person pruning knows how this happens and what to expect.
1. I have read that cuttings do much better in damp enclosures, and that picking off 2/3 of the leaves serves the same purpose as limiting sun exposure (i.e., reducing moisture loss), but works better.
2. You might consider placing old tires or
pallets full of mulch and/or earth (or something similarly cheap and sturdy) to block their way. That will give you some variety of height to work with, and not take much space away from useful
gardening. You might even find an arrangement that doesn't block bipeds.
"the qualities of these bacteria, like the heat of the sun, electricity, or the qualities of metals, are part of the storehouse of knowledge of all men. They are manifestations of the laws of nature, free to all men and reserved exclusively to none." SCOTUS, Funk Bros. Seed Co. v. Kale Inoculant Co.