R Scott

There are many such systems, but most are not much more than heat tape and a few clips to hold it. Earthships in the high desert do this, as much of their water comes as snow and will sublimate in the sun and not make it to the cistern without the melting system.

How much do you intend to interact with the orchard in the first 5-10 years? I’d make sure the brush is knocked down enough to walk EASILY if you want to do anything before it decays.  

Rebar in the columns might have avoided that damage, but it probably would have cracked rafters and punched metal.  definitely would have made any repair harder/more expensive.

Built like a brick sh…. Er, smoke house. :)

Glad things worked out like that. Looks like a manageable repair in good weather, other than that roof does look ridiculously heavy. Do you have a machine or a way to rig it or do you have to disassemble it?

SCORE!

Glenn Herbert wrote:I notice that, aside from the unavoidable waste from panel geometry, the panels could all be made a couple inches bigger from the 4x8 sheets, making the whole structure maybe 6" bigger in diameter.

I do think that in terms of usable space beyond raw floor square footage, you could get pretty close to the same with ten sheets of plywood making an 8' x 8' cubish structure with a gable roof and 6' eaves and 8' ridge. The parts would be much easier to make and quicker to assemble, and very easy to waterproof. With 12 sheets, you could make an 8' x 10'-8" structure with 6' minimum walls.

Absolutely. The advantage of the dome is in wind resistance, like in a desert environment. Any other environment, a square box is better.

The $100 price is a little outdated. More like $300 now with similar materials. Maybe $500 with the better grade materials that withstand the weather without swelling.

Otherwise, I like it as a pack in shelter that fits in a pickup bed. Build it before you head to your new land, then set it up like a permanent camp.

A roll of zip tape or similar window tape will waterproof the seams. Using the newer osb with weather barrier like zip ( the green or brown or blue sheeting you see when they are building apartments etc) would make it last years in the weather.

The one I saw goes up like a yurt—they built a temporary post to hold the skylight ring. That door slice is obviously molded on that drawing and would be difficult to replicate in other materials for the untrained, but it can be done.

There are programs to build the patterns, for aircrete domes and parachutes and hot air balloons, etc.

The issue is your pieces get to be really long, longer than most materials are readily available.

I remember bits and pieces from seeing these years ago…

The top band is just a trim batten for rain. The panels were connected together under that, but there weren’t many connectors, mostly spray foam or caulk sealant. If I remember correctly, they are connected at the floor and the top ring mainly.

Michael Qulek wrote:

R Scott wrote:There is higher efficiency when the inverter can convert directly from solar instead of charging the batteries and then pulling the power out for the inverter. Choose the string that gets direct light when you use the most power

I don't think this statement is correct.  As far as my understanding goes, ALL solar power passes through the controller into the batteries, and then All power comes out of the batteries to fuel the inverter.

What you might be thinking about is system potential, instead of battery voltage?  When sitting idle at night time, with no power coming in, the system potential is the voltage of the battery.  In daylight however, the system potential is the battery voltage, plus the charging voltage.  So, for example, a fully charged 24V battery bank at 8pm might be 25.4V, but the system potential would be ~28-29V towards the end of the absorption phase during the day.

The system potential becomes very important when you're trying to run a very big load, such as a 240V well-pump.  A BIG load like the well-pump could cause so much voltage drop that the inverter shuts off from a low-voltage warning.  While charging, the higher system potential prevents inverter shutdown because the battery has to first drop from a higher potential, and because power is coming into the batteries, the voltage sag will not be as great.

That might depend on the model of all in one, but mine can be set up to run the inverter direct from solar if available and then divert excess power to the MPPT. I can’t find the video now but I think it was Will Prowse that explained it better.  You gain efficiency because you bypass the MPPT inefficiencies. For lead acid, there was an additional gain as well.