Troy Martz

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since Aug 16, 2012
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Recent posts by Troy Martz

Renate,

I was worried about 2 feet of wood chips turning into a large, flat compost pile too... I have been checking the temperature (just by touching it), and it's luke warm, all the way down... whew... If this plot heated up, I would have waited until planting anything. I have a few compost heaps that are 3-4 foot tall (with the same ingredients as my plot), and they are HOT. So I guess the "must be at least 3 feet tall" rule in hot composting is revealing its magic.

I love what you're doing with the pigs... Letting them pulverize and poop in the straw. It's probably close to an ideal carbon/nitrogen ratio I would imagine. What are you going to do with the stuff? Plant right in it in the Spring, or move and spread it on the garden?

Troy
12 years ago
Martin,

It's definitely a lofty goal... I'm on 6 acres, but most of it is still sandy desert. I'm still a few years from even coming close to caloric needs for the family. And yes, we are big on micro-greens and veggies -- for us as well as the chickens, quail, and rabbits.

We're not vegan or vegetarians either. We're trying to decide on which animal protein source is best for us (lowest feed to protein ratio is a big factor). Our chickens are dual-purpose, but we only collect eggs right now. After hearing a pretty cool podcast, I'm seriously considering raising quail on a larger scale. Right now I just have 3... Rabbits and pigs are also very appealing (for different reasons).

Long story short... It's a lofty goal, but it's also a bit of a self-imposed challenge to see how close I can get.

I'll post some pics here soon. Thanks!
12 years ago
Correction... after looking into potential calories/acre, my estimate was way off... Instead of this plot producing half of my families caloric needs, I now believe it will producee about 1/5th... A little disappointing, but the formula seems to be legitimate...

Damn... I have to do this 4 more times... Whew...
12 years ago
Disclaimer 1: I have yet to try my latest batch of compost, as my Spring planting is still 3 weeks away (high desert, CA).
Disclaimer 2: I am only 2 years into transforming a patch of sandy desert into a lush food forest... I am expediting soil building (details below)

Ok, so the end goal is to evolve into a Jeff Lawton type system, with chop and drop, self-mulching, etc., etc.... I'm not there yet, so I am expediting the process. Here is what I've done...

For the past year, I've been fortunate to convince tree trimming companies to dump their wood chips on my sandy, barren soil. Wood chips is a bit of a misnomer, as it includes the leaves, needles, and a good portion of "green" in the mix. However, it's still predominantly carbon heavy. Todate, we've probably had 200 cubic yards of the stuff (awesome). My two prerequisites are that the loads don't include any aleopathic material (primarily eucalyptus and pepper cuttings... a small amount of this is acceptable), and that these trees weren't given fossil-based fertilizer, or weren't in the vicinity of any Round-Up, etc., etc.

Fortunately, I have a good relationship with one of the drivers, and nearly all of these loads came from rural areas, and the property owners have indicated to him that these are mostly trees left to nature's device. Could there be some residue? Perhaps, but I'm going on their word. Additionally, after a conversation with Jeff Lawton, he told me that nature has a way of rendering the bad chemicals inert, provided that we're dealing in small quantities...

Now, what in the heck do I do with all this high-carbon organic matter!!? I help it along, that's what... Here is an example of one scenario:

1. I filled a 100 x 80 foot bathtub-like basin with almost 2 feet of this stuff
2. I waited for 3 days of rain to get moisture down to the original ground level
3. I brought in 40 cubic yards of spent mushroom compost (very low salt variety)
4. I spread the mushroom compost across the whole field (about 4-5 inches thick)
5. I spread 3 55lb bags of volcanic rock dust and other minerals over the field
6. I spread a few hundred gallons of a special diluted mix of:
- 3 gallons of seaweed extract
- 2 gallons of black strap molasses
- 1 gallon of humic acid
- mycelium spores
- 10 gallons of actively aerated worm tea
- 3 5-gallon buckets of biochar that I've saved from my pyrolosis runs (very low ash)
7. I spread 4 wheel barrels full of dried chicken manure (my chickens, all organically fed)
8. I used a rototiller to mix the ingredients all together... The tines never came close to the original sandy base

I ended up with a homogenized mix of yummy goodness... I waited 2 days before I came back for my final treatment. I then thoroughly drenched the soil with my hose (well water) and used my feet to compact the loose mix. When not compressed, your foot would sink into the chips about 5 inches (too loose). The drenching and compacting cycle took 5 days, as my well water level and pressure needed to recover after about an hour of straight drenching. When fully saturated and compressed, the ground feels like you are walking on a stiff mattress... Exactly what I was after. Also, because of the nature of this mix, I know there are vast amounts of air pockets for oxygen to move freely. I just didn't want it to be too loose, primarily to retain some water-wicking characteristics.

The mushroom compost comes from a facility here in San Diego that has an extremely low salinity level. It's pH neutral, and able to hold vast amounts of water -- the exact opposite to the wood chips. My hypothesis is that by mixing a water-holding substance in with the wood chips, the breakdown process would happen much faster. I am stunned with the results. It's only been 2 weeks, and I've been peeking "under the hood." I am amazed...

The wood chips are not just damp, they're fully saturated with water, and are already showing signs of breaking down. There is mycelium everywhere (to be expected). It already has a rich, earthy smell. It's been dry and hot here for the last 10 days or so, and only the top 2 inches are dry -- the rest is still very damp and humid.

Initially, I thought I would just wait a year for this mix to marinate well, but after inspection, I think I'm going to plant some nitrogen-rich, soil-building plants from Peaceful Valley... At the end of this growing season, I'll start my first chop-n-drop after I harvest the peas. From this point on, I'll shift into a more "permaculture purist" methodology...

I'm left with 2 feet of fantastic soil now on a large plot -- enough to feed my family about half of our caloric needs for the year. Can't wait until next year when I plant food crops. By then, my soil should look much more like nature intended with the one year of the soil food web doing their thing.

How much did I pay for all this? Not much... wood chips were free. mushroom compost was free (had to pay the driver $300). The various other mixes ran me about $600. So 100 x 80 foot field, 2 feet deep ran me about $900 and a few weeks of hard labor... I'm more than pleased.

I'd be interested in hearing any feedback from other permies.

Thanks!











12 years ago
@Galen - You don't have to use petroleum-based fuel to power machines with an internal combustion engine. Natural diesel was first made from peanut oil. Syn gas, from wood gasification will power just about anything. Bio ethanol will work as is in just about any combustion engine.

Wood gas - made from pyrolizing wood chips (ironic). The exhaust from burning syn gas is similar to a rocket mass heater (CO2 and steam). You also get the amazing byproducts of bio char (another soil amendment), and ash (a soil amendment... unless your soil is already alkaline). Almost zero negatives with wood gas. You'd be sequestering carbon with the biochar, releasing CO2 and steam as an exhaust, and using the captured energy for mechanical work.
Ethanol - made from anything with a sugary/starchy content (like sorghum). With a few hundred sorghum plants and you can extract the sugary water, ferment it, distill it, and come away with several gallons of 100% ethyl alcohol -- A very non-polluting exhaust. Additionally, the seeds/grain can be fed to the chickens, the stalks that have been pressed can be fed to the goats, sheep, or cows.

In short, I think the internal combustion engine is a wonderful invention by mankind! However, the close association with petroleum-based fuel sort of clouds people perception about the wonders of using mechanical advantage for work... Even hand tools are instruments of mechanical advantage.

Wood gas, ethanol, biogas... are ALL very permaculture friendly.

My two cents...
For all you people living in Montana interested in NiFe, the best in the business lives down in Dillon. His name is Hank Muntzer, and he builds NiFe batteries right in his shop... These are the only "Made in the USA" NiFe's on the market. I'll be working with Hank soon, and we're set to blow the lid off some of the false data about nickel iron batteries. We will be publishing test data on every aspect of performance. They perform quite well when compared to lead acid, are far superior in some cases. There are some downsides, as with anything, but these aren't in the performance arena, and certainly not with the longevity.

Stay tuned... More info to come...

- BigDaddy
13 years ago