John Weiland

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since Aug 26, 2014
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Recent posts by John Weiland

Phil Swindler wrote:..... Every time they increase electric rates the further ahead we will be.  In 14 years when the system is paid off we will be way ahead.



We aren't off the grid and likely won't be in our lifetime, but you never know.  Nevertheless, now in our 60s/70s, we are at a point, assuming at least some of the affordability of solar remains for the next few years, that it seems worth adding a system stepwise to meet our needs.  We have some horrible electrical usage/bills that result from heating animal quarters and still using electric for kitchen range and hot water heating.  Granted, we use an air-fryer more now for baking along with the woodstove in winter, but the hot water heater is old, too large for our needs really, and so this resonates with the argument that reducing electrical needs is one part of making solar affordable and realistic.  Additionally, as Phil S noted above, grid pricing into the future looks pretty shaky.  As I type this, I have a bill in front of me from last May and the most recent one covering February.  We don't use AC and our usage in summer is still around 10 - 20 kwh per day, but this jumps bad in winter.  More importantly are two rate numbers and taxes:  Monthly facility charge went from $51 USD to $58 USD at the beginning of the year while the cost rate went from 12.5 cents per kwh to 13.3 cents per kwh. Taxes appear to hover around 10% of the cost of the kwh usage.  As I understand it, these rates are rather low, but are increasing steadily and due to other forces that most of us are witnessing, may jump quite suddenly in the days ahead.  For the present, we are a 'net-metering' state, so if we decide to grid-tie, we would get paid back at the retail rate for any production over what we use.  However, even with a strong public utility commission here in Minnesota, the coops have found ways to add extra facility/connection charges that one has to consider in the budgeting.

One disappointment when we had an installer out to quote to us a full-house solar system is the propensity to assume the full energy replacement of what the grid is providing is what will be quoted.  Certainly I understand the rationale behind this for most homeowners, but I was a bit surprised that no discussion ensued about simple reduction of power consumption via the solar set-up.  That was two years ago and now battery technology and cost enters the picture and we are wondering if we would want to grid-tie at all!  In this regard, and directing the next comment at someone in tune with recent policy changes, how did the state of Utah get legislation passed allowing for direct plug-in of inverted solar power directly into home outlets (solar power not more than 1,200W and assuming 120V)?  From an AI response upon searching:  "Utah law allows the direct plug-in of small-scale (<1.2 kW) solar inverters to reduce adoption costs, boost energy independence, and simplify access for renters and homeowners, removing the need for complex utility interconnection agreements. Enacted in 2025 (H.B. 340), this legislation promotes affordable, safe, and portable "balcony solar" technology."  These configurations with the micro-inverters avoid, for the most part, the risk of 'back-feeding' into a downed grid power line by virtue of shutting down the solar side when the grid goes down....thus minimizing shock of company linemen.  Are more states working on this?....Seems like it would be pretty significant in cost reductions depending of level of typical home power consumption.

But the bottom line for us, even as it's early days in planning, is to (a) install our solar electrical power initially off-grid in a scalar fashion with a few panels at a time, (b) take advantage of either home-built or pre-built battery storage from commercial vendors to back-up power for use when grid not available, (c) configure farm vehicles (electric) to run on 48VDC which can serve as power sources when plugged into master hybrid inverter for brief home power, and (d) continue to improve my 'sun dance' so that solar energy days are maximized and good vibes continue to foster improvements in the tecnnology, which seems to report breakthroughs almost weekly! ;-)  Based on my current fitness and dance steps, I'm not holding my breath regarding (d).... Ha!
1 day ago
For reasons I won't expand upon, I've shelved my box elder tapping for the time beingbut can attest to the wonderful taste it has!  It's about half the sugar concentration of sugar maple, but still worth doing....especially if it grows like a weed in your area.
1 day ago
Yes...although I don't know what kind of budget you might have in mind for your project.  Please look at the links within the following web-page for the North Dakota Agricultural Weather Network (NDAWN) which monitors 91 independent recording stations for both above and below ground metrics:  https://ndawn.ndsu.nodak.edu/help-equipment.html

In particular, they provide links to the vendor sites for equipment that would be able to provide the data in which you are interested.  I'm pretty sure the data from each station is linked via cellular signal to a master database for recording, although I can't recall the time intervals between each recorded datapoint.  At the site homepage ( https://ndawn.ndsu.nodak.edu/ )  you can click on the various locations to see what kind of information is recorded and in what format it is provided...within each site link there is an additional link for 'hourly data'.   Hoping this is of some use...Good luck!
1 day ago

r ransom wrote:

This is why a lot of professional saw on a stick have a bend so the saw is level with the ground when it cuts the branches.



Agreed.   I don't know how many of these types of saws are built with the blade projecting straight out from the pole, but the Dewalt that I just used yesterday to cut a 4" round balsam poplar limb has a pretty good angle between the cutting head and the pole.  Even fully extending my arms for this high branch, the blade was mostly parallel with the ground.  In case it wasn't mentioned, the only other issue in such situations I've encountered is when the leafy end of the limb is already being supported by neighboring branches.  In this case, there is no 'drop motion' to force the cutting gap open and the blade will bind.
3 days ago
Putting the link here for others and for discussion:  https://ember-energy.org/app/uploads/2026/02/Reframing-Energy-for-the-Age-of-Electricity-1.pdf

I live in a region of the US that is quite politically conservative and rich in fossil-fuel advocates.  It becomes quite frustrating to argue points of alternative energies when local opponents continue to cite the legacy of those fossil fuel foundations at providing reliable power to the consumer.  The linked paper does a decent job of indicating the sizable inefficiencies of those power source compared to current and emerging alternative technologies.  I hope some of this information will be helpful for others here also.  An ~11 minute podcast on YouTube providing an overview of that paper is linked below as well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qokwulKU9Bg
1 week ago

Michael Qulek wrote:
The system potential becomes very important when you're trying to run a very big load, such as a 240V well-pump.  A BIG load like the well-pump could cause so much voltage drop that the inverter shuts off from a low-voltage warning.  While charging, the higher system potential prevents inverter shutdown because the battery has to first drop from a higher potential, and because power is coming into the batteries, the voltage sag will not be as great.



Very good to know as powering a well-pump is a top priority for our homestead and I suspect of that of many others!.....
1 week ago

Douglas Campbell wrote:A completely different option is an EV with vehicle to load option.

John: If connected to the grid the EG4 battery self heat would be a minimal draw.




Thanks for additional comments....and yes, I've enjoyed and gotten good information from many of Will Prowse's videos on LiFePO4 batteries.

Douglas C., the EG4 batteries look interesting and I'd not really delved into the 'Powerwall'-style of batteries at this point.  But with the configuration in mind, I think that could work well for our needs and I will keep researching that angle.  Also, I had not really considered vehicle-to-load option as we don't have an automobile EV per se......but we do have an electric Polaris Ranger for farm chores (48VDC X ~300 Ah).  Just now it's still running on the stock configuration of 8 X 12V lead acid batteries, but the hope with the declining price in LiFePO4 or other advanced battery tech is to replace these old batteries soon.  I had rigged up those batteries to be charged by solar and so already have that battery pack feeding into a plug receptable into which I plug a solar PV/MPPT controller combo for that purpose.  Seems like this circuit could be used to at least feed 48VDC into a hybrid inverter as well for low-level house power.

As always, lot's of good and helpful info running through these threads....much thanks!
1 week ago

Douglas Campbell wrote:We have 3x 10 kWh EG4 self heated batteries.
They work but it is, so far, tough to figure out the power consumption of the self heating.
I think/fear it just keeps the batteries above a setpoint whether charging is imminent or not, which was an issue during a prolonged cold/dark stretch last year.

'BattPack' sells all in one portable units for low temperature.



Thanks for responses to my query.  

The concept I'm thinking of is derived from the fact that (a) I'm a cheapskate, (b) we have a transfer switch at the grid-provided power pole in the yard, (c) wife is hesitant to have a large stack of batteries in the basement of the house when said battery chemistry has even a minor reputation for catching fire, (d) we are both in our senior years and may have limitations on system maintenance, and (e) the garage best suited for batteries is unheated.  Although lately mid-winter temperature has not gone lower than -30F, it is prudent in the region to plan for nights near -40F as this has occurred in the past 30 years of our living here.  I'm looking into placing a hybrid inverter (48VDC) near the power pole and be enclosed within a shed that would house both inverter and batteries.  Initially, the system would run power from the grid into the batteries for back-up and keep them topped-up for times when being on battery power makes more sense (outages, other reasons...).  Solar panels will be added to the system over time, providing prioritized charging power for the batteries.  So if the self-heating circuit is not too demanding, I would be fine....for now....with grid power providing that juice for heating, *provided* that they will be maintained above a threshold temperature at all times so that the battery is not damaged.  Your statement, Douglas C., that "I think/fear it just keeps the batteries above a setpoint whether charging is imminent or not..." is exactly what I was wondering.  In my scenario, keeping the batteries heated and 'safe' is the priority over the fact that they will indirectly be using grid power and hence adding to the electrical bill.  With a properly insulated shed or battery center, however, this draw from grid power may be pretty minimal....?   With the shed positioned near the power pole, I was envisioning simply using the same cable that I now use between gas/diesel generators to feed into the transfer switch  So I will need to determine if the outlet (AC) leads from the hybrid inverter can be wired into a proper receptacle for that cable.  An addition issue, perhaps trivial, is that the generator and cable combination currently provide both 120V and 220V power to that transfer switch....this combo allows low level 120VAC to the house plus enough power for the 220VAC well-pump.  Thanks again!.....additional comments/criticisms welcomed.
1 week ago
Even though the OP here posted about unheated LiFePO4 batteries, I'm hoping a related question on heating might be answered here.  Is it possible when using a heated LiFePO4 battery to program the battery management system (BMS) to maintain the battery temperature above some minimum even when it is not going through a charging cycle?  My impression is that when the charging system is called upon to initiate a charge when batteries are cold, the BMS will prevent initial charging.....first initiating a heating period to bring the batteries up to an acceptable temperature for charging....and then beginning the charging run.  My question pertains to a 48V parallel-connected battery array that would be semi-permanently plugged into grid-powered charging unit that would sense when the batteries were getting below a certain threshold before initiating a charge.  But I'm not clear on whether such a battery array, in an unheated building, could be maintained above a certain temperature simply by virtue of being charger-connected....and in some way using that fact to keep the internal battery heating circuit active to maintain the batteries near the minimum charging temperature.  The point being, having that battery array never dip down for any length of time to a temperature (~ -30F to -50F) potentially damaging to the battery.  Would it be better just to heat the whole enclosure/shed that the batteries were being kept in? Thanks!
1 week ago
Just wanted to add some ideas to these entries based on a recent snowfall.  For sure, my situation is very scaled-down and reachable compared to that describe by the OP, but may be of use.  We had a fairly typical late winter storm move through that started out as sleet, then wet heavy snow, then a larger amount of colder, drier snow.....and then back to near zero F nights for several days with highs in the teens.  Still, the sun has gained some strength and is up for a longer stretch of the day now.  So I used a long-reach truck window brush and squee-gee to clear off the top layer of snow.  With the squee-gee side, I was able to get down to the ice layer across the surface, but this now rendered the panel dark in color versus the reflective white of the snow.  Figuring to use the panel later in the day, I went back into the house for a few hours to work on another project.  At some point less than 2 hr later, I looked out to see the panel completely cleared!  The black background of the panel combined with the design had provided enough heat from the sun not only to melt the ice, but to dry off the surface of he panel.  So **if** you were able to replace the metal scraper head of one of of those long roof rakes with a lightweight shop broom head, you might be able to remove sufficient snow to enable the sun to do the rest in short time.  Just a thought....
2 weeks ago