kees ijpelaar

Benjamin Dinkel wrote:

kees ijpelaar wrote:
Wel I do now now why it does not work well, the cros sectional space in tunnel is 225 cm3  and the rizer
is 176 cm3.

Reason, the riser is round, the tunnel and output is square.

Hi Kees. That shouldn’t be a problem. For a fluid the corners don’t really count. So 15cm diameter round is almost the same as 15x15cm square. Doesn’t really make sense at first, but it’s the case. There’s no flow in the corners due to friction.

And I’m with Scott. It would be good if you gave us a reminder of what you’re trying to achieve and in what step you are.

The thread started as a batch box for hot water. Now it’s a j tube cottage rocket that’s outside?

Well what I discover is that the rizer is 68 cm and the burn tunnel is 48 cm. did make the rizer longer but is close to top.

I go make the burn tunnel  shorter so it match with the rizer later, so also the fire get into the rizer and not in the tunnel like now happens.


The book roacket mass heaters do state that the tunnel is the smallest part, also with square or round rizers.

C is the burntunnel in the book see attachment need smaller then the rest.

I go just test all, if nabure is quite but I have trouble with her who is heavy anti woodfires.

Lttle confusion here I see, yes it is cm2 a typo.

The letters K,G etc are from the book rocket mass hearts III, and I have read
some more about the rockets.

The burntunnel needs to be the tightest part, because the rizer is round and the tunnel is square I did make a mistake
who let the tunnel bigger.

I have now make it little smaller as the rizer and it give a better result, now I see flames in the rizer.

Other part I did not right is the burntunnel length, I have not 1/2 lengts, I miss 10 cm, but this is because it is a different
beast an less space in barrel, what I can do is shorten the tunnel, because also in the book the dimensions needs
to fit calculations, and the burntunnel is 48 cm and the rizer is close to 90 cm, I have a gap on top 6 cm.  

I have 6 inch, but did thought it has then all a kind of connection
but I can optimize the burntunnel length and rizer, as long as the tunnel is the smallest part of the system.

Oke, I can shorten the tunnel so it match the rizer of 90 cm, but can als shorten it to 68 cm, the fire will then go deeper
into the rizer and heating much faster, this way I can optimize it as is done in the book, there she also play with the
burntunnel length and rizer length to optimize burning.

regards

Cristobal Cristo wrote:I second Fox - location matters. If I build a test rocket (or other type) firebox, dry stacked, with no chimney, no insulation, it burns beautifully in dry weather and with dry wood.
When firing in winter humid environment with dry wood, but moistened with dew or fog it may smoke initially or in your case for a longer period.

Thanks for clarification, Yes it is here quite moisterious, like mist.

But today there was sun, however it is not quite dry weather. I did not tought about that. But do tomorrow correct the burntunnel because this is
very important and I have a way to big one because i did forget to incude the round or squares in calculations.

I have a shimney now, see the movie in previous post.

HI James andBenjamin.

Thanks very much for your help

In Netherlands it is 10 degrees, we have a very mild winter.

I have pick a piece of tekst here from a book rocket mass heaters II

C is the cross-sectional area of the horizontal
Burn Tunnel, normally made of brick, in which
most of the burning happens. A single common
brick on edge is about 4 inches high and 2¼" thick
and firebrick is about 4½" x 2½", so arrange bricks
flat or on edge to make up the required height.
C should be the tightest part of the “intestinal”
system. The size of the cross-sectional areas of
all parts of the stove’s internal ducts should never
decrease below that of C. In other words, the crosssectional areas of F, G, H, J, and k should all be
greater than that of C.


Wel I do now now why it does not work well, the cros sectional space in tunnel is 225 cm3  and the rizer
is 176 cm3.

Reason, the riser is round, the tunnel and output is square.

I need to put a layer in, like 5 cm (I have only 5.5) and then the tunnel drops lower then the rizer.

I bet that this is the problem.

here a movie of the burn, it does get better in time but that is mucho to long. there are more.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ziO7bOsGo-A

Oke thanks.


I go try later a new test, using a slot into uit like the batch rocket does, maybe that cause enough turbulence for better burn.

as when using it now it does suck a lot of air in, and this air is cold because I test outdoors.

The rocket heater does not well, I have look in the rizer and see flames but it does nog come out afterburning.

It smells and smokes, so I smell also, that is not rockety.

Reason is I think the fire bricks used, these are the non insolated versions and i have only isolate the rizer.

Maybe a batchrocket in such a oilbarrel is better, or make a split into the rizer entree as is with the batchrocket
is a interesting tryout, heat can go higher that way and there is not such a dramatically draw.

Can someone advice me, I need to know if this is the stuff I need for insolated core.

I have bought a bag with brown balls in it, bigger and smaller, it is for plants.

I do not now if there are also other ones, these balls in the bag are very low
weight.

I have the brown ones, what is clay, So perlite is the white stuff

Hi all


Did test again after isolate the vloor of the core, it  do make a difference what means I have a to cold
place for the fire to go fully.

I need to make a core with clay, and the potting stuff, for plants so it is isolated.

I had the idea to isolate the core, because I have used 3 cm thick stones a layer of ceramic whool is
maybe a solution?  So I can let the stove in one piece.

see here. This man did use thick stones and have isolated it, with rockwool and ceramic.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fiHpE0h9GiQ

https://youtu.be/s4GMV1T4l9E

Did not work well, smoke, and odor, I even myself smell at it, and that is not oke.


The max temp I did reach on top of barrel was 123 degree celcius. this means the afterburning do
not work because if it does, it get a hell lot hotter, it did better when I did make the tunnel 3 cm smaller in
the top and  bottom and left the sides 15 cm, I did see this somewhere in past and also then a pit for the ashes.

You now I can not smoke out nabures and just that was what I did with it, the barrel is also outdoor
and outside it is 10 degree celcius or so.

I think the fire in the tunnen is way to low in temperature, all other stuff is oke, chimney etc. The
rizer is isolated with a ceramic blanket like more people do.

here the burning.

https://youtu.be/ziO7bOsGo-A

Scott Weinberg wrote:5 months ago, you said and it appeared you had it working well? Now you say or think it is not?

I had not test it without a shimney and it did burn but also smoke, but now it is complete and it does much better
nut can improved.

go make a P challel and try to make a part on it that cause air turbulence like a metal bend  golf or so.