michael rowald

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since Jun 21, 2019
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Recent posts by michael rowald

Yeah I here you there. I guess "really" it doesn't matter the name haha I could just label them 1-4 and say dang that #2 peach is the bomb lol. But I believe i know where all the graft unions are so I have an idea of which branches are for what graft. I just wasn't sure if it was an easy thing to identify different varieties of peaches. One of the baby peaches has a red-like smooth skin and I was wondering  if that wasn't the redskin type. The others are more of the fuzzy skin type which will be harder to identify. Lol but I guess it probably isn't that easy.
9 months ago
I bought a fruit cocktail tree few years back and it has 5 varieties of fruit grafted to one tree. I kind of want to know which one is which. How can I go about identifying each?

One is done because they put a "Bruce plum" onto a peach tree so that one I know which it is. But it also has "Ruston red, dixland,belle of GA, and redskin" peach varieties. Which are the ones I'd like to identify for pruning reasons. Don't wanna loose a variety because of a wrong cut. Also I would like to take some more cuttings to create more trees. I have already got 2 Bruce plums tissue cultured then potted and now planted in the ground for a year so would like to try some of the other peach varieties off this grafted tree.

Right now I have baby fruit and they do look different so I think this might be the best time to start figuring this out... any advise is welcome and pictures are a big help as well so let me know if I need to post some...

Thanks,
Mike
9 months ago
Check out the dwarf cavendish banana progress!!! Flower done flopped out and over and showing bananas!!! 🍌 🍌 🍌  lots of them actually. If we get 12+ on each of the "petals" of the flower were looking at about 150ish banana on this one plant. I'm super excited and can't wait to taste them. Two of the pedal had 12ish bananas in between so that's where I'm getting that number from haha. But one of the pedals might have more then 12 actually cuz there is a second row showing now so might be 24 per pedal crevice. Lol
11 months ago

Winn Sawyer wrote:

michael rowald wrote:
everything else was seeds from fruit so shouldn't have disease pass threw seeds. Wouldn't think anyway...



Unfortunately that's not true for avocados. The avocado sunblotch viroid (ASBVd) can spread via infected pollen, resulting in fruit that has infected seeds in it even if the mother tree is not infected. Most diseases do not spread by seed, you are correct, but that's a major exception for avocados at least. Even worse, seedlings that are grown from such seeds typically do not show ASBVd symptoms, but anything grafted onto them becomes infected and often shows symptoms, and the viroid can also pass to nearby trees if their roots come in contact.

As to your other concern about the viability of avocado cuttings, I've successfully grafted scions that were cut months earlier, as long as they've been stored in sufficient humidity without excessive warmth or freezing temperatures, budwood can remain viable for a lot longer than you might think!

wow I would not have thought a disease could pass like that. That kind of sucks. What are the symtoms of this disease?

Hmm the grafting stuff does sounds interesting for sure and I'm going to have to plan an experiment sometime. I've seen alot of you tube videos on it and looks simple if you know what your doing. I've done plenty of tissue culture cuttings with different things, plenty of crazy training techniques with certain plants/trees but never have I done any Frankenstein experiments with plants haha so it sounds like the next step to my greenthumbery!!!
11 months ago

Winn Sawyer wrote:That freeze last week was the coldest it has been in the 7 years I've lived here, but we do typically get one bad freeze every year or two, usually in the upper teens for a night or two. Apart from that, most of the winter our low is just above or slightly below freezing, rarely below the mid-20s.

I usually only have a single electric heater that is plugged into a "thermo cube" so that it turns on when the greenhouse gets to about 36°F, and usually it only runs once every few weeks for a few 30-minute bursts on a cold night. The one heater can maintain a ∆ of about 14°F vs outside. On those rare occasions where it's necessary for a greater ∆ than that, two heaters seem to do the trick for my location. The greenhouse is glazed with twin wall 8mm polycarbonate panels, which have a pretty good R value.

As far as multi-graft trees, I think they produce just as well as trees with a single variety, and should last just as long, the only issue is the pruning is a bit more complicated because you have to prune for "balance" more than anything. By which I mean you need to keep the more vigorous varieties from overtaking the others, and hack them back more than you might want. I've noticed that with Duke on my trees. But I'm pretty new to grafting, these trees were my first grafts about 3 years ago. Though I've done hundreds of grafts since then, none are fruiting size yet. Mostly they have been small trees I've distributed to project members, or things I've planted in my yard that haven't fruited yet.

My reason for the multi-graft avocados is to maximize the genetic diversity of the seeds produced in the greenhouse, since the primary purpose of the greenhouse is to provide seeds for the avocado breeding effort I'm organizing. If my primary purpose were just to have avocados to eat, I'd just do one variety per tree for easier maintenance.

When you say mail-order avocado scionwood is risky, do you mean because of diseases? It is true that there are various quarantine zones, and things like sunblotch viroid or Verticillium wilt can be easily spread by cuttings. I have had a few scares with both of them when getting cuttings on Etsy or other forums. But I think you'd be pretty safe ordering scionwood from somewhere with a good reputation like tropical acres (that is the order form, here's the list that actually describes all the varieties). Most of my varieties were from the UC avocado grove, but they don't do mail order, you have to be able to pick it up from their Riverside campus in person.

Citrus cuttings are far more risky, with the HLB "greening" disease rampant in many citrus growing regions, and easily spread by grafting. I ordered my scionwood from the CCPP program in California, but that's pretty pricey. You're better off just ordering a grafted tree from a nursery unless you want something rare, it'll probably even be cheaper.


Ahh so your in a much more stable environment then me. Idk how the weather people around here can even say the word "average". We fluctuate so often like 3 days ago it was 5° during the day full sun. Today is 48° zero sunshine lol. And rainy.  But having just a heater plugged in would be nice to keep things alive. I'm forced to do it a bit harder way. But it's working. Yeah having that glazing you have is pretty decent. I know it can be pricey tho. Idk how it compares to double layer poly 6mil thick sheets with a good 4inch air gap or better in some places. And idk how to even calculate r value for my setup lol. But it definatly works better then single layer.

That's good the multi grafted tree do good and last. I was wondering about that. But thanks for the advice on the taming each to be even with eachother. I noticed my plum on the peach/plum tree is really gaining momentum I probably need to trim it back like you said even things out so I don't get a dominate leader cuz that's what the plum is doing now forsure.

But yeah it seems to me getting the tissue cultures would be better to get it directly off the tree and run straight home with it to graft on. All the "dead" time of mailing is risking an already risky procedure lol let alone the diseases that could be spread. My orange tree I have was a bare root tree ordered online everything else was seeds from fruit so shouldn't have disease pass threw seeds. Wouldn't think anyway...
11 months ago
That's pretty cold for even two electric heaters. We have a smaller 10'×30' greenhouse that we initially thought we could heat like that but found out the hard way that it wouldn't. That's when we first looked into the barrel stoves. We put a single barrel stove in there for that greenhouse while our tropicals were still in their 30gal bags then got the bigger greenhouse fixed up for them in the ground and jumped to the double barrel stove since it was like twice the size. Been working good but we live at the southern most tip of Illinois so we do get pretty cold here, not much winter precip but cold that's forsure.

Looks like you crammed yours in there just like I did haha. Pretty cool that you have multiple varieties grafted to each tree. How well does that work? I have a "fruitcocktail" apple tree and peach/plum tree, apple is fuji, yellow delicious, and gala and the peach/plum is like 4 peach varieties and a Bruce plum. I havnt yet gotten fruit off them well not edible fruit yet. The first year I put them in the ground the peach/plum set fruit then it all dropped. Nothing last year but growth, so hoping this year maybe some fruit. How well do multi grafted trees grow,produce, and last?

I've been thinking about doing some grafting with my citrus trees. I have 3 lemons and an orange planted in the ground. Was thinking about grafting some limes and grapefruit to the lemon tree that doesn't taste as good when they produce. So I have more variety. I guess I could do that with the avocados too but I'm not sure about mail order Scion wood or even bud tissue culture. Seems very risky. But if it was cheap enough maybe. I'd like to do that with my one mango I have growing too. Would probably help with pollination on it as well.
11 months ago
Nice!!! Do you have to heat where your located? How big is your greenhouse? How far apart did you plant yours?

I have two rows going the length of my greenhouse my rows are about 10-12' apart and trees are 6' apart on the rows so they can really only get 5-6' thick x 10' wide x 8-10' tall. I know they are close but it's an experiment and we have the floor heavily mulched so there should be plenty of biology in the ground here to keep them all happy and no serious competition with each other considering their limited size capabilities. I know last year our younger avocado tree was it's first year flowering and our older tree actually set fruit this time but fell off once some of them got to about marble size, had a few grape size that lasted longer but fell off too. I'm hoping this year we get some mature fruits on the older one since our younger one should have more flowers this year maybe more pollination will help. And I think if any fruit sets on the younger tree this year I'll just pick it off so it can mature another year before even waisting the time on it this year. But my older tree I'll let it go and see what happens.🤞  Im hoping my big citrus trees flower this year too, cuz those are amazing to the nose. I've only had like 5 flowers on my small potted one last spring and you could smell that like 50ft away can't imagine an entire tree full!!
1 year ago
Disregard the text in other post it got messed up with the quote thing..

Yeah I didn't realize that measure detail on the bananas but it's all good I have been making due with trimming the leaves that are too tall and I've even been managing to keep some of each leaf but some I have had to totally snip. But I do have atleast 5 full leaves on each tree and the rest are partial leaves but that's probably how it is in nature with wind storms and rain and such so I figured they would be fine. The blue Java banana I have a ratchet strap and a piece of hose around the stem to keep strap from cutting in and it's bending the stalk to avoid ceiling contact lol. Never heard of banana stem training? Lol jk. But it is working with some extra effort. Will report when it's flowering. The dwarf cavendish is the one flowering now and it's flower "tip" is at about 8 ft now and the base of the flower is at about 6.5ft so the flower is decently long I'm hoping it starts to bend over towards the south, I cut a window in the leaves so sun could pull it over that way in hopes it doesn't grow into the ceiling. The base of this banana is huge!!!

The avocado trees have both been topped earlier on for lower "scaffold" branches. But this year I think I'm gonna let them grow and see what happens fruit wise. Last year I trimmed them back like November. I was scared of them growing into the ceiling then I had to just let it be cuz they grew so fast I had no control haha. But they seemed to stunt themselves this summer because they realized the plastic was restricting upward growth. I also use a shade cloth on the greenhouse in the summer months due to heat issues, had some burning of leaves the first summer. But yeah by me not trimming the trees before this winter I think the extra "warmed" biomass inside here helps hold the heat better as well. Vs having all that open dead space in the greenhouse ceiling area for heat to just vaporize threw the ceiling lol.

Also my avocados havnt started flowering yet this year, I got a photo pop up from last year when it flowered and it was like 2 weeks ago. So maybe our tree is figuring it out or something, cuz I see zero flowers right now.
1 year ago


Just something to keep in mind, the reported maximum height for bananas is always measured from the ground to the end of the P-stem, NOT to the top of the emerging leaves, which can often require a clearance of 4 feet (or more) above the top of the P-stem. But since yours is starting to flower, you should be good now, as the flower hangs down when it emerges.

I would recommend chopping back the avocado trees heavily, to encourage bushier growth down low, rather than letting them self-prune from contact with the cold surface of the sheeting. The other thing is they need lots of water once they set fruit, if you want to decrease fruit drop, but also it's very normal for avocados to drop a lot of fruit at that pea size. Really good fruit set for avocado would be about 1 in 500 flowers holding their fruit to maturity, but it's also "normal" to be as low as 1 in 100,000 being held to maturity. So you need to maximize the number of flowers by encouraging more bushy/wide growth, and to prune them enough that they don't get close to the ceiling, where the colder temperatures might cause more fruit to abort compared to fruit that are further from the plastic sheeting. yeah I didn't realize that measure detail on the bananas but it's all good I have been making due with trimming the leaves that are too tall and I've even been managing to keep some of each leaf but some I have had to totally snip. But I do have atleast 5 full leaves on each tree and the rest are partial leaves but that's probably how it is in nature with wind storms and rain and such so I figured they would be fine. The blue Java banana I have a ratchet strap and a piece of hose around the stem to keep strap from cutting in and it's bending the stalk to avoid ceiling contact lol. Never heard of banana stem training? Lol jk. But it is working with some extra effort. Will report when it's flowering. The dwarf cavendish is the one flowering now and it's flower "tip" is at about 8 ft now and the base of the flower is at about 6.5ft so the flower is decently long I'm hoping it starts to bend over towards the south, I cut a window in the leaves so sun could pull it over that way in hopes it doesn't grow into the ceiling. The base of this banana is huge!!!

The avocado trees have both been topped earlier on for lower "scaffold" branches. But this year I think I'm gonna let them grow and see what happens fruit wise. Last year I trimmed them back like November. I was scared of them growing into the ceiling then I had to just let it be cuz they grew so fast I had no control haha. But they seemed to stunt themselves this summer because they realized the plastic was restricting upward growth. I also use a shade cloth on the greenhouse in the summer months due to heat issues, had some burning of leaves the first summer. But yeah by me not trimming the trees before this winter I think the extra "warmed" biomass inside here helps hold the heat better as well. Vs having all that open dead space in the greenhouse ceiling area for heat to just vaporize threw the ceiling lol.

Also my avocados havnt started flowering yet this year, I got a photo pop up from last year when it flowered and it was like 2 weeks ago. So maybe our tree is figuring it out or something, cuz I see zero flowers right now.
1 year ago

May Lotito wrote:It's quite impressive the greenhouse can stay almost 50 F warmer than the outside.
Is your mango a dwarf or regular variety? In my hometown, mango tree are tall evergreen street trees. What other tropical fruit trees are suitable for growing in the greenhouse? Pomegranate? Dragon fruit? Guava?

Well woodstoves have been keeping us humans warm for a very long time, there is a reason they are still around. They work good!!

The mango I have growing is a seed from a fruit I ate in 2018. So I honestly have no clue what variety it is. But it's not super tall it's growing more bushy. But some of the other trees that are tall and in the ceiling are kinda bonsai "pruning/training" themselve. I'm not sure how to describe it really. But the bananas we have growing have been more of an issue cuz the leaves are stiff and actually push into the plastic film so I just cut the leaf stem 6 inches below the plastic film cuz I found out they push out more after they are cut. But our avocado, citrus, and jackfruit trees are doing the bonsai thing in the ceiling. The citrus actually stop growing thorns up by the ceiling for some reason other then not poking holes in my plastic for me haha. It's weird but I'm fine with it haha.

But there are plenty of things you can grow in a greenhouse. I just wish I had a huge greenhouse so I could literally grow it all 🤣
1 year ago