Joao Winckler wrote:Volunteer tomatoes are one of those things that either happens or it doesn't, and when it does you wonder why you ever bothered starting seeds indoors. I get a handful every year from cherry types that dropped over winter. They always come up later than my started ones but once the soil is warm they grow fast and seem tougher somehow, probably because they germinated on their own terms rather than being coddled under lights. The only downside is not knowing exactly what you'll get if you grew multiple varieties nearby the year before.
Niko Lourotos wrote:
John Weiland wrote:Our garden is fenced against deer, but rabbits occasionally get in .... and that's the effect they would show on our beans. As others have noted, if these are on a low deck, try moveing them to a higher point like a deck railing or table. If the new location is away from deer and rabbits and *still* occurring, I would suspect squirrels or similar.
Really?? Squirrels? There are many of then around. I thought the ate nuts etc.
Hm... if it is squirrels, what do I do???
Michael Qulek wrote:I think what you could do is to fill in the pots an inch or two deeper, and allow the curvy sections to produce roots. Eventually, with roots forming above the curves, the curving will become irrelevent.
Niko in Vancouver wrote:
Nicolas Derome wrote:
My bed (started in 2022, moved to a different town in 2023) is still going. I got a flush in late May/early June, as usual. It was a little light, maybe because I didn't add enough fresh organic matter, or maybe because after a wet start, late April onwards has been a little on the dry end of the spectrum. I added a few inches of maple woodchips in mid May though, so we'll see if that boosts the harvests in autumn, or if it will just focus on continuing to colonize and the dividends will come next year instead. My beds are in part shade, they don't seem to mind that too much, although I suppose it can mean the top inch or two of organic material is more prone to drying out and not being colonized as much.
I also have a big root mat for them to colonize. Right next to the winecap bed is a 30x8ft area that used to be reeds of some sort, which I chopped back, covered in landscaping fabric and then mulch a couple years ago. That seems to have killed back the reeds, which I couldn't dig out because it was just a completely unbroken mass of roots. Now that those roots are breaking down, we'll see what colonizes them. I also had 3 morels fruit in that area. I spread some winecap spawn into the maple woodchips I put around some newly planted fruit trees as well, which they seem to be colonizing pretty well already after just a few weeks.
Generally, I have found that they do not need quite as many wood chips as we assume they do! Mine have spread all over the shady parts of the garden, outside the wood chip "piles", basically to ground with leaf litter and scattered debris. And they flush right through that. I guess that this the neat thing about winecaps - they are "ground shrooms" as much as "wood mushrooms".
Here in Vancouver the summers can actually be very dry. The colonies lie very much dormant for 3-4 months, but always come back on the next rainy season. In general, they seem quite hardy, resilient and low maintenance!
Joao Winckler wrote:The up-potting advice for small pawpaws is worth following honestly, especially for a 1L pot. The taproot on pawpaws is fragile and they really hate being disturbed twice in quick succession. I'd get it growing strongly in a larger pot first, then plant out in autumn or early next spring when it can establish without the heat stress on top.
Niko in Vancouver wrote:So I ended up on this thread looking to determine whether I can feed pine cones (not chips, just dried up cones from the ground) to my wine caps.
I think the general consensus is "probably"?
But I also found other interesting queries to which perhaps I can contribute my own observations & experience!
SLUGS: Yes, definitely a problem. But simple beer traps worked great to totally eliminate the problem. I got some cute green "pagoda" ones from Amazon too, so they look appropriately gnomish among the mushrooms :)
BEDS: I just form dedicated mushroom beds in the darkest corners of the ornamental garden, where nothing flowering and pretty really grows, simply by laying down logs (branches from trimming older trees, really) in a rectangle and filling it with leaves and debris. In most cases, the wine caps also seem to have spread beyond their beds, within a year or two.
SUBSTRATES: Pistachio shells worked really well. Walnut shells did not seem to bother them either. I have no straw, but I do end up with a lot of dried up scarlett runner bean husks every fall. The rest is leaves, twigs and sticks from pruning (after they've dried up) and, if I am lucky, mixed woodchips from landscapers working nearby (which I always end up "aging" /drying for a few months first, not sure why, it seems appropriate). It all goes in.
VIABILITY: With the above approach, the beds seem permanent to me. They come back year after year, two flushes, in May and October, since my original purchase (during Covid lockdowns). I just dump stuff on top, ad hoc. If it is too dry in the Spring, I may wet them a bit. That's all.
(*) I do get the distinct feeling that they do not like city water (chlorine?) but they, of course, love rain - even rain water from the rain barrel.
LATEST: I have an old bamboo planter, concrete, about 2'x8'. I killed the bamboo years ago (it was shooting runners over the planter, in to everywhere, even got into the house!) but now the planter is solid bamboo roots and cut stumps sticking up every square inch. I can't plant anything else in it and removing the bamboo tangle seems a herculean task, so I will lay chips and mycelium on top and hope that the winecaps will simply eat everything and in 4-5 years I will have a planter full of compost - and a dozen bonus wine cap harvests to boot!!
Cheers from Vancouver!