Toko Aakster

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since Apr 28, 2022
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Grew up on a farm, moved to the city for work, trying to turn this suburban lot into a nice little ecosystem until I can work out how to move back onto a farm.
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Recent posts by Toko Aakster

r ranson wrote:So far, I've found Waldemar's videos to be the best for learning art history.  



Y'know, I really respect folks who prefer audio-form learning, and can sit down & just LISTEN & learn. Like, folks who can really absorb spoken lectures and audiobooks. It's a skill I was never able to develop. Even watching these videos, I found my attention wandering.

For some reason, lectures & audiobooks are SO difficult for me to pay attention to & learn from effectively, when they're not about something I'm already DEEPLY invested in.
When my brain pings on an interesting new thing that was said, it just turns off the audio input, so as I mull over a new fact I've learned, I completely miss everything that comes after.
Apparently I can't just absorb info and contemplate it LATER. Gotta contemplate how it fits into the web of my worldview NOW.
Lecture-heavy classes in college were SO difficult for me.

The only exception is if they're talking about my special interests. I can listen to lectures about animal husbandry & soil ecology for DAYS, gnawing at the bars to ask those lecturers follow-up questions.  
But for stuff that I've got a mild interest in, or am learning because I feel I must? ...Ah, it's gotta be books.
4 months ago
art
If you can track down these books, I'd also recommend them:
The Story of Art - Gombrich (1950)  <-- it's a bit surface-level, but a solid intro into Art History. Something to get you started.

Mirror of the World by Julian Bell <-- Not a traditional art history book, as it focuses more on how art across the world approaches expresses aspects of humanity, but it's still very informative.

Ways of Seeing by John Berger: https://www.ways-of-seeing.com/ch1

If you can find a pirated PDF version online, or find it at a library:  Gardner's Art Through The Ages. It's horribly huge and expensive lol, but it's great quality info.

--
"A History of European Art - Course Guidebook" by Professor William Kloss, from the Smithsonian Institution: https://ia801209.us.archive.org/7/items/AHistoryOfEuropeanArt/AHistoryOfEuropeanArt.pdf

"European Art and the wider world c. 1350-1550"  published by Manchester University Press: https://www.academia.edu/34296783/European_art_and_the_wider_world_1350_1550_2017_

It may be easier & more informative if you focus in on a smaller geographic range, and a smaller period of time.
For example, England in the 14th century, or Italy in the 16th century.

Or pick an art technique and a country, like "The history of Spanish Bobbin Lace Weaving" or "The history of Moroccan Zellij Tiles"  and explore from its origin to modern day (or until you lose interest in learning more about it.)

--

You could also go into some Art Museum website, pick a period & location that interests you, and browse through the art. When you spot one that you find interesting, read about it & research more about that style & who made it.

Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History - Iberian Peninsula, 1400-1600 A.D : https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/ht/08/eusi.html

or drop into a local history museum, and focus on their art on display. Read the signage posted, see them in person, and then go home and learn about their history online.

--

Trying to learn 1,000 years of Art History across a whole continent is like trying to swallow the ocean.
If it seems too overwhelming, take smaller sips.
4 months ago
art

Pearl Sutton wrote: Meatloaf was made up to stretch meat. Meatloaf burgers work well too. I just made us, for brunch, french toast out of home baked bread, and not many eggs.
What are your favorite recipes or ideas for stretching food when times get tough?



Well, this thread is making me remember that my dad's family grew up poor as heck, so all my childhood faves were just 'stretched out' versions of what other people would call the standard.  You've heard of 'Old Money', get ready for 'Old Poor'!
I grew up on 'meatloaf' burgers, but they were just called hamburgers. I found out other people DIDN'T add breadcrumbs, egg, and a bunch of spices to their burger patties in highschool, and was (and still am) disappointed at how dry and flavorless most '100% meat' burgers are in comparison.  
Passing clothes to younger siblings, or taking them apart to mend into something new is just sensible. When the fabric's too worn out to be clothes, it can be cut up and used as a washing or drying rag.

Here's some tips;

1.  Add Noodles or Rice to every dish. Even if you only have a tiny portion of meat and a little bit of veggies, if it's mixed into rice or noodles with a sauce it'll kick ass.
1a. Make more noodles/rice than you need, and store the extra for tomorrow, to use a different sauce/seasoning. It's a different dish entirely, now!
2. For cheap, easy veggies: Frozen peas, Dried Beans, and Canned Tomatoes are your friend. They last forever, so you can stock up when you have a bit of money (or make your own from the garden).
3. Learn how to LONG-FERMENT veggies. A lot of online recipes are for short fermentation, and require putting in the fridge & eating within 2 weeks. Properly long-fermented and unopened containers of saurkraut, kimchi, pickles, etc. will last about a year, they'll just get soft as they get older - great for turning into flavorful soups and sauces packed with nutrients.
4. If you have a tiny bit of yogurt left (or can afford buying a single-serving cup), and a gallon of milk that hasn't gone bad, you can make MORE yogurt by mixing the two together in a pot, covering that pot, and putting it in the oven overnight (No heat! Ambient house temp only) - As long as the yogurt wasn't pasteurized, you'll get SO MUCH plain yogurt!
5. Buying oil, flour, rice, and noodles in BULK is worth the cost savings and extra effort storing it when you get home. Noodles/flour/Rice store just fine in old pickle and spaghetti sauce jars, or just wrapped up in layers of saran wrap if that's all you got. If it's watertight it's good to go.
6. Sourdough starter is worth keeping around for small batches of bread. It's got no preservatives so it should be eaten in 1-2 days, but with the sourdough starter you can always make another loaf. (or pretzels, or biscuits, or pizza crust, or focaccia, or bao, etc.)
7. When you're feeling down about money, go out of your way to use different seasoning combos than normal & make your food LOOK GOOD. Like, plate it prettily, put a garnish on it, a little drizzle of garlic oil (boil garlic into oil, strain the chunks out to eat, ta daaa garlic oil), and present it with a flourish. Even if you're just having a variant of hamburger helper for the fourth time this week, it's a morale boost to feel like you're eating something new & special.
8. STOCKPILE sauce & dips RECIPES and SPICES. Many excellent sauce recipes are simple, and can be made with super-cheap ingredients. Yogurt-lemon juice-basil/dill is excellent


My childhood favorite was just called 'Noodle Stuff'. Served hearty helpings to a family of four, with leftovers for tomorrow.
- 2 boxes cheap Mac 'n Cheese (with cheese powder packets)
- 1 bag frozen peas
- 1 yellow onion (chopped roughly)
- 1 can concentrated cream of mushroom soup
- 1 soup-can full of water
- 1 tbs miced garlic (or 2 tsp garlic powder)
- Whatever meat you can spare. Dad used half a pound of ground beef or ground sausage as default, or a whole pound if he was feeling confident about money haha.
- Salt and black pepper to taste. (we liked it peppery)

Cook the Meat in a very big pot, on medium heat.
When the meat's about halfway done, add the onion in to cook in the meat juices.
Boil the Noodles.  
Dump EVERYTHING into the big pot, except the salt and pepper.
Mix thoroughly while on medium heat, until the frozen peas turn BRIGHT GREEN (cooked through, but not overdone)
Take off the heat, and add salt & pepper to taste.

It's quite cheap to make an enormous amount of filling, tasty food.
You can also adjust the recipe to add mixed vegetables if you want, or use a different type of creamy soup. It's versatile.

-
Protip for all you homesteaders:
In the USA, Feral Pigeons are NOT a protected species. You can bait-trap as many as you want and take them home. Many businesses will allow you to trap their birds for free, thinking them a nuisance pest. I don't recommend eating feral pigeons directly, because long-term malnutrition and poor living conditions is an easy way to spread disease.
HOWEVER:
You can build a roosting & nesting structure (dovecote) and keep the pigeons trapped in there for about 2-3 months. (they will need to be fed and watered during this time).
That 2 months will make MOST of them set this nesting structure as their HOME.
You now have a dovecote full of adult pigeons which you can allow to free-roam to forage, and they'll come back to the dovecote at night to roost. Each adult dove will pair up with a mate for life, and if you've been feeding them good food during their first 2 months, keep their water fresh, and occasionally give your flock a handful of cheap birdseed once they're set loose, they'll actually tell other pigeons what a sweet home they have, and invite more pigeons to come roost with them in your dovecote.  

Pigeons are SUUUUPER easy to gut & pluck (way easier than a chicken!), they're not bothered by losing their nest of eggs, and if you let them hatch out the chicks, the young ones are ready to harvest for meat JUST before they're fledged out fully. You can grab 'em right from the nest once they look like an adult pigeon, but before they leave the nest. (The meat is sweet and tender at that stage. If you harvest adult, flying pigeons, the meat will be tougher and have a gamey flavor... just different, not inedible)

As long as you can save up enough seed to feed them through the winter, in the warm months they become a nearly-free source of meat & eggs because they'll fly around to forage from surrounding areas. Unlike chickens, you don't have to worry as much about ground predators or neighbor's dogs getting them while free-roaming. It's generally hawks/owls/eagles that get them, but they produce enough young each year that a lil population of pigeons in your dovecote should be able to easily replace any numbers lost to predation.
Their poo is also INCREDIBLE for gardening.

All 'City Pigeons' are decedents from Rock Pigeons. They were thoroughly domesticated for meat and eggs, and to carry messages... and then at some point in history, humans lost interest in cultivating them, and released them into the wild. In America, Rock Pigeons are considered 'Feral' animals - not 'Wild'. They're like feral dogs or feral cats who were born wild and never interacted with people.
Their domestication is still written in their genes - they can tame down to be wonderfully friendly animals.
4 months ago

Nancy Reading wrote: What works for you? What do you think might be good features to include in a home recycling area?



We've been trying to make a habit of taking all the trash & recyclables to their outside bins every night before we lock up the house.
Compostables go in the worm bin, in the compost, or to the chickens, depending on what it is & how far I feel like walking.
Everything else gets rinsed & put on the edge of the counter to dry so one of us can sweep it into a bag or basket at the end of the night, and just toss it into the correct bin outside. If we cooked a lot and have a BUNCH of cans, or just went shopping, I might take care of it right away.

After several instances with fruit flies making a home in well-intentioned recycling bins, and 'forgetting' to take the recycling out on the correct day so it piles way up, my wife and I agreed it was actually easier to make clearing the house of trash a nightly routine.
We already go outside in the evening to secure the chickens in their henhouse, rain or shine, so we may as well use that trip to remove unwanted stuff from the house, too. Adds like 20 seconds to the trip, and there's rarely enough buildup in one day to make it a multi-trip ordeal.

Now if only I could get myself to be so diligent about doing laundry.... *sigh
4 months ago
Hello! I currently live in Texas, (just realized I never updated my profile's location lol) and invasive Fire Ants have been a problem in my yard since I got here. You've got a couple options.

What moves them to another location:
- churning the compost. If you disturb their nest significantly, the queen will move to a nearby location to start a new mound.
- Pouring so much cold water on them that it disturbs their nest significantly. Power sprayer!

What immediately kills the ants:
- Spinosad ant bait. It's a pest killer produced through cultivating a type of naturally occurring soil-borne bacteria called Saccharopolyspora spinosa. The bacteria produces goop that's toxic to many insects (including ants), but entirely harmless to vertebrates. The microbe's metabolism goop is harvested in bulk and used to coat a tasty ant treat, which you'd spread around your compost bin for the ants to bring back into the nest, feed to their queen, and kill her & any in the mound who partake.  
Unfortunately, it does also function on a wide variety of other bugs, but other soil microbes break it down quickly- so once you've applied it and you're certain the fire ant mound is dead, you can go back and repeatedly drench the area you applied with water to work it into the soil layer for microbes to take care of... or note when there's a multi-day rainstorm coming, and apply it in a ring around the compost 2-3 days before the storm.
I know Permies doesn't like poisons of any kind, and I understand if my post gets taken down with that rule in mind.

What MAY be able to kill the mound
- DRENCHING the compost bin with gallons and gallons of BOILING water. If you can boil/steam the queen to death, you kill the mound.
- Opening up the compost bin layers and SCORCHING it, layer by layer with a propane torch. Roast the queen, kill the mound. This also involves deliberately ticking off fire ants AND has a risk of accidentally starting a fire you didn't want, so.... be careful.

Older Fire Ant mounds can be up to 6 feet deep in loose soils, and even in newer ones the queen is usually in the deepest chambers, 1-3 feet underground.  Hopefully yours is shallow, and mostly in the bin itself.

What doesn't work:
- Cold Water drenching the mound. They don't give a sh!t. They evolved to endure yearly tropical floods, and just float up to the top. As soon as the nest isn't fully submerged, they're gucci. Back to business as usual.
- Diatomaceous Earth is moderately effective at killing ants which are out roaming, but the queen never leaves the heart of the colony, so you'll never get her with that.
- Vinegar or Lemon Juice:  The acid may destroy pheromone trails, and the smell may repulse exploring ants, but it won't kill a mound.

If you want to experiment with GALLONS of vinegar to try to pickle the queen, please come back and report your findings on its effectiveness.
4 months ago
Latin naming goes: Family > Subfamily/Tribe > Genus > Species > Cultivar

When it comes to pollinating for setting fruit, remember:
1) GENUS can always pollinate GENUS, and SUBFAMILY can usually pollinate SUBFAMILY
This works fine if your goal is setting fruit, not producing viable seeds.

If you want viable seeds from these fruit, and you're trying to get a next-generation via seed, then Species-Species breeding is better.
---

Most popular fruiting trees are all in the 'Rose' Family, and there's always a small chance that all of them could, in theory, pollinate each other.
I knew a guy who deliberately pollinated his blackberry canes using rose pollen as an experiment, and it worked just fine. It set fruit as normal, but the seeds gathered from those fruit didn't sprout. Incompatible hybrid.

All Prunus can pollinate each other.  (All cherry, almond, peach, plum, apricot, etc. can pollinate each other)
All Rubus can pollinate each other (All Blackberry, raspberry, dewberry, etc.) <--boysenberry and loganberry are hybrids!
All Maleae can pollinate each other (All types of apples, pears, crabapples, serviceberry, hawthorn, quince, loquoat, etc.) <-- some inter-genus hybrids in this tribe are even seed-viable!
All Citrus can pollinate each other. It's not a 'Rosaceae' family fruit, but it's worth mentioning that Citrus is freakishly good at hybridizing with other citrus. (Lime, Pomelo, Lemon, Orange, Kumquat, Grapefruit, etc.)

Bloom TIME is the biggest issue for natural (not human-assisted) cross-pollination.
If you have two cultivars of pear but they bloom at entirely different times in spring, you could add an ornamental crabapple that blooms all spring and use that to pollinate both pear cultivars.  

If you planted a BUNCH of the same early-blooming cherry cultivar and they won't cross-pollinate properly because the clones can't self-pollinate, adding an ornamental Flowering Almond that also blooms in early spring will pollinate them.

--

One of these days I really ought to make a graph of different Rose Family plants, which ones bloom at what times, and which have a proven track record of good pollination with the other.
All the lists I see are focused on JUST peach cultivars pollinating other peach cultivars, or apple cultivars pollinating other apple cultivars.

Lemme know if you're interested.
4 months ago

Nancy Reading wrote:I live in a windy area and shelter is everything. Both houses and people do better with shelter from the wind.



ABSOLUTELY prioritize shelter, and keep track of what direction the wind is coming from.

1. Earthworks and careful building planning when you can. Solid dirt & rock diverts better than anything else.

2. Sturdy slower-to-medium-growing evergreens are the best windbreak in my opinion.  It'll take longer to get established so it's not a quick-fix, but they'll continue to provide a windbreak even if they die and become a dead husk. Fast-growing trees tend to be brittle, and aren't the best choice against truly STRONG winds.  I prefer evergreens like pine and spruce because as they get larger, their TOP is their smallest & bendiest part. Their radius-for-causing-severe-damage is a lot smaller than a deciduous tree.

3. If you're going with hardwoods to shield your house, MAKE SURE they're far enough away that they can't get blown over in 10 years and crush your house. Deciduous trees get TOP heavy, and can wreck your shit by dropping huge limbs from a great height to get flung by the wind.  

4. Stack your windbreaks, if you can. Have some hardwoods further out, to take the first smash & slow down the wind.  Another barrier of scattered evergreens to continue to slow it down as it approaches your home/garden. Tall hedges. Fences.

5. For gardens; tuck your more fragile herbaceous plants closer behind a windbreak, so the seasonal wind storms don't snap them in half or strip all their leaves off. If you can put all your most-fragile stuff in the dead-air spot right behind your house where the worst winds won't hit, that's ideal.

6. If all you've got is a fenceline to work with, go for 'reduce damage' rather than 'prevent'. I've had solid wood fence posts snap at the base, because the super-strong fall winds caught them broadside. 80+MPH gusts have some OOMPH behind them.  However, the much more delicate-looking lattice fence with cloth mesh over it was just fine. The porosity of the mesh allowed some wind through, so it wasn't taking the full brunt - but still reduced the force of wind on the garden behind it.

---
If you've got the tech savvy to turn wind into power, and can afford the big power banks (batteries to store it), windmills and wind turbines can capture quite a bit from windy areas & storms.
4 months ago

Christopher Weeks wrote:Is there any connection between this substance and the green-sand aluminum casting I did in high school metal shop? (Quick googling didn't turn anything up, but I don't know enough about either context to hazard much of a guess of my own.)



Hey there! I've got some experience with casting/molding - They are similar materials, but the words DO mean different things, in the different contexts.
--

Green Sand the Soil Amendment is SPECIFICALLY green-tinted glauconite (a mineral with the texture of sand) and any clay, with other trace minerals. It's called 'Green' because the color is literally green.

Green Sand the Sand-Casting material is any type of finely-sifted sand, mixed with bentonite clay, and just enough water added that it sticks together and can catch fine details. It's called 'Green' because it's got moisture, like plant greens have moisture, or green wood has moisture.  It is not actually colored green.

--
Basically: The Soil Amendment is very particular about having green sand in it, while the Sand-Casting material is very particular about having a good sand-clay-water ratio.
4 months ago
I think a lot of folks are getting hung up on the fabric donut thing.
That's really helpful for carrying BIG HEAVY things, as it distributes the weight a bit and makes it more comfortable. But really.... most objects don't need it.

My grandma trained me for 'proper posture' since I was quite young (elementary school onward). She wanted me to be a 'graceful young lady' and had me carry books on my head without touching them. Chin up, shoulders back, head lined up with center of balance, stride smooth and even between footsteps... And to be fair, it looks graceful as hell when I do it in a skirt.

Since I was a kid, I got into competitions with my brother to see how many books I could carry at once up there, how heavy, how tall a stack... and now as an adult I'll fling a 50lb bag of goat feed onto my head, because it's way easier than trying to haul it on my shoulder or hip. As long as I get the center of the bag roughly lined up, it molds to my head and just... sits there, easy as anything. Getting it into my trunk is a matter of leaning forward and letting it fall.

If you want too start learning how to do this, here's my advice based on experience:

SOFT platforms mold to your head easier, and are easier to carry.... but it's also much easier to keep soft stuff on your head with terrible posture and weird angles - and doing that greatly increases the risk of injury at higher weights. It's better in the long-term to learn your posture & head-balancing muscle memory FIRST with a hard platform, and then move to weighted stuff.

Hardcover books are easiest to start with, and they're actually even EASIER if you get one with a little bit of heft, not a super-thin lightweight children's book that'll easily slide off your hair from the wind.
Best starter book is something like a hardcover romance or fantasy novel, with at least a thumb's width of pages. (don't use valuable 'pristine' books for this; if/when they fall, it can dent their edges and crumple pages)

Posture and Stride is important! Once you have it balancing while you stand, try walking around with it. At first you want to try moving very smoothly and slowly around, shifting your weight so that your head doesn't tip the book off. When you start going faster, you can get a feel for how you need to subtly tilt the angle of your body forward when moving forward, so that your momentum keeps the load on your head instead of toppling off backward.

Once you can walk around the house with the book safely on your head, and can go from standing to kneeling to sitting and back up to standing without it falling... start adding more books. The taller the stack, the more difficult it will be.

If you don't have hardcovers, you can also find like, a small rectangle of plywood or rigid foam to balance, and stack stuff on there.

Once you're confident carrying stuff on the rigid platform, move to soft platforms (Woven baskets! Cloth bags of laundry!)  and begin increasing weight and bulk over time.
Try a 10lb bag of beans, then a 20lb bag of rice, a 40lb bag of chicken feed, or whatever. Bags of small pellets/grains are the easiest weight training tool, since they mold to your head and become rigid enough once placed, so they don't slide around.
Before moving up to the next weight, spend a week or two habitually carrying one weight around on your head while at home. Do chores with a bag on your head, haha~

You DO need to spend time building up muscle in your neck and shoulders, and getting your body trained into how to MOVE with weight on your head, before trying to fling a 50lb bag up there. Don't rush to a higher weight. That's how you fuck up your neck real good.

Anyway, have fun!
5 months ago
Do you want to swim in the pool as well, or convert it entirely to food production?
Basically; Do you want a full AQUAPONICS system, or do you want a SWIMMING POOL which has food plants using it as a water source.
Those are two very different infrastructure setups.
6 months ago