I use a modified Victoria Mill. Using a diamond wheel on a 4 1/2 grinder to grind the burrs flat. and then few thousands concave, leavng a one quarter inch wide perfectly flat area at the perimeter. Use Prussian Bluing, a flat reference plate and Dremel toll with 1" Wheel for this. Grind the grooves with the Dremel to make a sharp edge on the side of the groove where the grain is cut. There should be NO GROOVNG in this area.
Control grain flow from the hopper as follows. Make a five inch diameter disk from 1/4 inch
plywood. Cut a 3/4 in. hole at the center. From hardwood doweling, make a taper- 7/16 at the end increasing to 9/16 one half inch from the end. Suspend it with a threaded rod and crosspiece on top of the hopper. With the small end of the dowel at the top of the plywood, no grain should flow. If the small end is lowered to the bottom of the plywood, flow will be more than the grinder can process. Grain should flow only when the mill runs. I cut 1/2 inch deep slots at the top of the hopper. If the crosspiece sits in the slots grain can flow. When on top, it will not flow.
I use a 750 RPM drywall mud drill. You MUST use the side Handle for control. I insert a wooden mop handle and firmly support it. I believe the best way to fit the mill to the chuck is to grind a diameter that cleans up and fits the drill.
For this, Clamp the mill mouth side down to a bench. Grind a diameter about one inch long.
The drill can easily be overloaded. A clamp on ammeter costs less than a drill.
Note where the main shaft meets the 1/2 ball. I smoothed a piece of a file and placed that side next to the ball.
This machine makes nice flour at a good rate, Bran is fine and cost is about $150. The burrs should be adjusted tight. The hard iron will not wear.