Monica Hatfield

You are most welcome for the info, and yes they can be poured in place too, with additional challenges if you want your form back.  We put in wet area posts in the winter when it will support the installation crew and machinery and they don't set and cure right when the temperature is too low, so premade is best then.  Cardboard tubes sound like a try. 
Baling wire aka single strand unbarbed would work for attaching mesh type wire to the posts with the grooves.... or maybe those plastic zip ties but how do they hold up to uv rays? I've seen baling wire stand up for decades in wet conditions even.

Also don't forget an attached sunroom/greenhouse as an option.  It could be attached directly to your cabins south side. 
Earthbags do not need so much of a recipe of so much percent clay, and can be filled with what is available.  And while lighting is important snow load is also a major factor.  Check out angles for maximum sun from your site.  Mark shadows now knowing winter shadows will be longer because of low horizon winter sun.
A pit or partially underground greenhouse up against the cabin may or may not be possible depending on your site.  If you go underground at least insulate the outside against the freeze zone and don't forget about drainage.

They are great for low lying spots that are constantly or seasonably wet. 

An easy(ish) way to make them on the spot is to take a plastic or black rubber type pipe the correct or preferred size and length.  I prefer the black rubber type(see below).  Cut it lenghtwise with a saw.  This creates a an expansion joint for removing the concrete post after curing.  Use some clamps (large hose clamps work well) to tighten the joint. 
I have a hole in the ground for the pipe to rest in for filling, just deep enough for it to stay standing. Add rebar for strength if desired or if it will be a corner post but don't let your rebar protrude through the bottom of the cement because it will rust up from the bottom.  Pour in your cement mix and let harden.  To release simply unclamp the hose clamps and slip form off the top (I reccomend letting them cure at least one week before using).

If you are in no rush for posts you can make one a day, only use (buy) one form, and mix small amounts of cement as needed.

Also they are heavy and care is needed if using a post pounder.  A piece of an old tire cut into a strip serves to protect the top of the post from the pounding plate and provide the length for you to hold it in position and keep your hands well away.  I prefer using my garden claw to dig just the right size hole (6 inches), it goes really fast.  I also cheat and use a shop vacuum with the garden claw off the tractor inverter since I have the tractor there anyway to carry the heavy posts.  That shop vac sucks the dirt right out of the holes from the claw. I can dig a nice round 3 foot deep by 6 inch hole in about 5 minutes this way.

Needless to say you can't hammer fencing staples into these but, you can insert the staples, insulators or other fasteners into the groove that you cut in the pipe and clamp them in place and pour your cement in around them.  Or if you use the black rubber type of pipe for your form you can add rings of something like a willow branch (peeled) or a strip of rubber tire or hose works awesome, to the inside of the form, screwed in from the outside.  This will create a small groove(s) in the fence post that you can use for wrappng your wire around.

I wouldn't want to fence many acres with these but they have their uses.

In the city with the neighbors on all sides.... inside.  Out on the land whereever I can find a weed to pee on.  

For those who cannot squat flat footed without falling over, or find a place by the side of the road, or who spray not in a nice little stream  -  get a slim plastic bottle of some sort and cut off the bottom, smooth with sandpaper.  Fits nicely between thighs and automatically directs liquids so aiming is easy.    You can rest your butt on the edge of the car seat or floor shielded by the door and slip it in the right spot. (My husband has seen my bare butt before), as above aiming is easy.  Wiping is easy with the edge of the bottle being smooth and a vigorous shake after using gets rids of all the droplets (from the bottle). Alternatively you can squat as much as you can and lean back on a tree a little for balance.
Also practical for those easily embarrassed are skirts and loose pajama type pants with the larger gusset in the crotch. (like the kind they use for martial arts)  They are very comfortable and can be modified for a pass the gusset and undies to the side.
Also for the side of the road issue here is a trick, pull your car off as usual but point the front as if you were ready to pull back on.  This creates a blocking angle from the back and when you open the door it blocks from the front.  As for the little bits of TP a small chip dip container works well for the vehicle.
I still have some small boys so I take a package of wipes everywhere, and they can be washed and reused (great diaper liners).  Also I used cloth diapers and the method isn't hard to modify the principal to make your own washable pads (custom fit too) as I also sew.

There were lots of good ideas already mentioned so I won't repeat any of them but depending on circumstances everyone still has to find what works best for them.

Canada Zone 3 cold but low humidity.  I hang them out year round.  In the winter they come in cold but not wet when they warm up heavy things like jeans sometimes a little damp. 
I am soooooo lucky!    I have a back porch, kind of like an airlock entry and right in that little room resides one end of my clothesline (the long vinyl coated kind with a pulley on each end).  It goes though a skinny little door in the wall.  Insulated and weatherstripped well and when you close that door the grooves in the side for the clothsline are so tight that you cant 'reel in the line' until you open the door.  Sure is great for the winter and grabbing it in quick when it rains out.  I have a dryer (still almost new shape at least) I put in the towels for a quick fluff.  And yes I also have one of those little closets in there with a fold down ironing board.

It probably would and in fact most apple trees that will grow in my neck the woods are grafted onto "Siberian crab" not the other way around.  I want to start some for the purpose of providing a cross pollinator for the one at the farm which had lovely blossoms this year but not one dang apple and for grafting other cuttings to so they will live more than one year here.  Most of the nurseries here in fact sell stuff that is not suitable for our climate, and soon dies, usually after a year or two at most.
I will persist in trying.  I can start seeds from every dang apple that I buy from the store but not the one that grows in my back yard. ARGH!   
Ill try somemore cuttings in the spring I guess. maybe when I rake up this falls piles ill just dump the whole lot all over the farm, some here, some there who knows.

I have tried taking them right off the tree in fall, off the ground, leaving them over winter burying the little apples at various depths, sparating the seeds like you do for tomatoes, planting a mushy apple of two in the very early spring etc.  I have tried stratifying them too.  I have tried rooting various cuttings all with no sucess.
I was hoping someone actually knew exactly how to do it.  Seems like I need a 1-2-3 for this one.
I have tried.... alot.

So does anyone know how to grow them?  I have one in my yard in the city and I want to start some for the farm.  The birds in my area seem to like them all winter long.  I have no trouble growing regular apple trees from seeds but for some reason I cant get one sprout off of these.  I beleive the variety is "siberian crab".

Normally you would not use a vapour barrier on cob, but in our case we need to use it.  A cob structure is only as good as its "hat and boots" and since we are not using cob in this instance the vapour barriers seem necessary to keep the straw insulation dry.
The humidity in the root cellar will be high and in order to keep the straw insulation dry a vapour barrier is needed from the bottom.  As the root cellar needs to have its own ventilation system, to vent the whole roof would only cause the straw to rot.  As we are putting a screened gazebo on top the second vapour barrier serves to help keep the insulation dry from the top since the screens will allow some moisture to come in from the top.
If we were making the structures separately the plans would change, and if we are on the wrong track of course feedback is always welcomed as the idea to combine the two is only a plan.  Mostly the reason for this smaller project is to test the results of the earthbags underground in our lowlying 'misty meadow'.  I would love to have a traditional root cellar but alas we have no hills.  I am calling the gazebo "the bug house" a necessary evil for my 2 and 4 year old boys to have a place to play without being eaten alive (priority one).  The whole structure will probably be turned into a play area with an underground fort once the house is built. 
We could and will be making a hill (winter sledding) from the pond construction (aka the old lakebed) but it will be incorporated into an earth sheltered greenhouse next year, as our meadow is too wet right now for any digging.

We are planning something similar, but we are planning a wood/beam floor from standing dead timber.  Walls with earthbags on rubble trench foundation with a bond beam, dirt floor.  Vapour barrier under the floor/ceiling, floor beams, straw insulation, then vapour barrier on top of the straw under the top floor.  I think if I was putting a chicken coop on top instead of a screened gazebo I would use sheet metal/roofing tin for the floor and have the floor with a slope(s) to the door for cleaning. But I don't see a problem with making your form for the cement floor right on your flooring/roof beams as long as you don't make your pour too deep.  Think I might want to add a supporting post or two underneath depending on the span though.  I would call my local building inspector and ask him though, he's a great help if I don't pester him too much!  When my mom had tile put on her floor they just poured the cement right on top of the old subfloor, then the thinset, then the tile.