Tunde Oladepo

Every winter I relearn the same lesson: chickens are tougher than we give them credit for—but they’re also more vulnerable in ways that don’t always show up on those “chicken care charts.”

At first, I thought the answer to winter was simple: heat lamps! That’s what everyone on YouTube was doing. But after one nerve-wracking night worrying my coop would burn down, I unplugged it and started focusing on no-electricity solutions. The funny part? My hens did better without it.

Chickens don’t need tropical conditions, but they do need protection from drafts, dampness, and predators when food is scarce. Here are some of the best methods I’ve learned (sometimes the hard way):

1. Ventilation Beats Sealing
Closing up the coop to “hold in heat” seems logical, but moisture is the real enemy. Damp, still air causes frostbite way faster than cold dry air. I keep vents up high (above roost level) so the air circulates without chilling the birds directly. Even a small vent or two on opposite sides can make a huge difference.

2. Deep Litter Method = Free Heat
Instead of cleaning out bedding constantly, I let straw, shavings, and droppings build up into a composting layer. That slow breakdown creates gentle warmth, kind of like an insulated mattress for the hens. I stir it occasionally to keep it fresh, and then in spring, I’ve got great material for the garden.

3. Roosts Are More Important Than You Think
Chickens fluff up their feathers like little feathered sleeping bags. But if they’re too close to the ground, that cold air drafts right over them. I set my roosts higher than knee height, away from vents, and wide enough for the hens to cover their toes with their feathers (prevents frostbite). Round dowels are actually less ideal than flat, wide roost bars.

4. Draft Shields & Wind Blocks
Wind can steal heat faster than anything. I stack straw bales or use old wood boards on the windward side of the coop to block gusts. Even just repositioning the coop so the entrance faces away from prevailing winds makes life easier for the flock.

5. Bedding Choices Matter

Straw: Great insulator but can mold if it gets damp.

Pine shavings: Smell nice, compost well, and stay drier.

Sand: Drains well but holds cold in deep winter.

I usually mix straw and shavings in winter for the best of both worlds. Whatever you use, keep it dry. Wet bedding is a recipe for frostbite and illness.

6. Snacks Before Bedtime
This one surprised me—feeding a small amount of cracked corn or scratch grains before roosting helps. It takes energy to digest, and that energy keeps the birds warmer overnight. Think of it like giving them a bedtime “heater from the inside out.”

7. Water—The Forgotten Challenge
Honestly, frozen water is one of the biggest winter headaches. Since I avoid electric heaters, here are a few tricks:

Use black rubber bowls—they thaw faster in the sun.

Place water inside the coop (but away from bedding) to keep it from freezing so quickly.

Swap buckets morning and evening—having two makes it simple.

Dehydrated chickens are more prone to illness, so water management matters as much as warmth.

8. Light vs. Darkness
I don’t use artificial light to force egg laying. The hens slow down in winter naturally, and I’ve found it’s healthier for them to rest. Some keepers do add light, but I prefer to work with the natural rhythm.

9. Predator Pressure Increases in Winter
Hawks, foxes, raccoons—everyone’s hungrier in cold months. I reinforce doors, check latches, and even add extra wire around the base to stop diggers. A predator-proof coop is just as important in January as in July.

10. Know Your Flock
Different breeds handle cold differently. My Buff Orpingtons and Wyandottes fluff up like little snowballs and seem unbothered. My Mediterranean breeds (like Leghorns) struggle more. Heavier, feather-footed breeds tend to cope better in freezing weather. If you’re in a cold climate, choosing the right breeds makes life much easier.

What Hasn’t Worked for Me

Heat lamps (fire risk + dependency).

Plastic-wrapping the coop (traps moisture).

Over-insulating (creates damp conditions).

Thin metal coops (they sweat with condensation).

Extra Little Hacks

Hang old feed bags or tarps as windbreaks.

Provide a dry dust bath area inside the coop or run—it keeps feathers healthy even in snow.

Check combs and wattles often—Vaseline can help prevent frostbite on big comb breeds.

Give them something to do! Bored chickens pick on each other more in winter. Toss in hay bales or cabbage heads to peck at.

Final Thoughts

The biggest surprise for me was realizing that comfort in winter is less about adding heat and more about removing dampness, drafts, and stress.

For anyone who wants a more detailed, step-by-step guide (covering insulation, bedding, ventilation, and predator-proofing), I put everything together here:
Winterizing
Chicken Coop Guide

Now I’d love to hear from you!
How do you keep your flock cozy without electricity? Do you use deep litter, certain coop designs, or some clever permaculture trick I haven’t tried yet? I’d love to learn from what’s worked for others.

I’ll never forget the first time I watched one of my hens dust bathing. She flopped into a pile of loose dirt, flapped her wings like crazy, wiggled every inch of her body into the soil, and then just lay there, eyes half-closed, looking utterly blissful. At first, I panicked—was she hurt? Was she sick? But nope. She was having the time of her life. 😂

That’s when I realized dust baths aren’t just hilarious to watch—they’re one of the most important ways chickens care for themselves.

Why Dust Baths Matter

Dust baths are like a chicken’s natural health routine. They help:

Control parasites: Rolling in dry dirt or sand suffocates mites and lice. A natural, chemical-free solution.

Regulate body temperature: On hot days, dirt helps them cool off.

Reduce stress: Dust bathing is social. Hens often line up, take turns, and cluck happily while doing it.

Maintain feather health: Dust absorbs extra oils, keeping feathers shiny, fluffy, and waterproof.

So yes, it’s both “chicken spa day” and pest control rolled into one.

How I Set Up a Dust Bath

Over time, I’ve experimented with different setups. Here’s what works best in my flock:

Choose a container or spot – Old tires, kiddie pools, wooden crates, or even a shallow pit in a sunny part of the yard.

Mix the base – Loose dirt plus some sand to keep it crumbly. Hens love a soft texture to dig and roll in.

Optional but helpful add-ins

Wood ash (sparingly) to fight parasites

Food-grade DE (light dusting only)

Herbs like lavender, rosemary, or mint for smell and bug deterrence

Keep it dry! Chickens avoid soggy dirt. Refresh the mix every few weeks to keep it loose and inviting.

Signs Your Dust Bath Is a Hit

Hens line up and flop in together

Lots of wing-flapping, rolling, and clucking

Feathers look cleaner and shinier

Fewer parasite issues over time

Mistakes I’ve Learned to Avoid

Putting the bath in a damp spot

Using too much powdery DE (can irritate lungs)

Forgetting to refresh the dirt

No shade in summer—hens avoid it if it’s too hot

Extra Tips

Set up more than one bath if you have a larger flock. Chickens love social bathing, but space is important.

In winter, cover the bath or place it in a dry part of the coop to keep it usable.

Keep it near the coop for convenience—you get front-row seats to the entertainment! 😄

Final Thoughts

Dust baths are one of the easiest, most natural ways to keep a flock healthy and happy. They’re cheap, low-maintenance, and the hens do all the work themselves. Plus, watching them enjoy it is one of the simplest joys of raising chickens.

For a full step-by-step guide, including the exact ratios I use and extra tips for keeping dust baths effective year-round, check out my blog here:
[url=https://chickenstarter.com/how-to-set-up-a-dust-bath-for-chickens/]How
to Set Up a Dust Bath for Chickens[/url]

💬 I’d love to hear from the community: How do your chickens dust bathe? Do you create a special spot, or do they dig their own? Any tips or funny stories to share?

The first time I heard one of my hens sneeze, I’ll admit—I panicked. My brain immediately jumped to scary words like “respiratory infection” and “contagious disease.” But after a little watching (and worrying), I realized she’d just gotten a bit of dust in her nostrils from scratching around.  

That experience taught me something important: not every chicken sneeze is a reason to panic. Still, sometimes it can point to a bigger issue. So how do you know when to shrug it off and when to step in?  

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Normal Chicken Sneezing: When It’s Nothing Serious  

Chickens live in dust, straw, feathers, and dirt. A little sneeze here and there is totally normal, especially when:  

- They’re scratching in deep litter.  
- You’ve just added fresh bedding.  
- They’re dust bathing.  
- They’re eating crumbly feed.  

Think of it like us sneezing when we walk into a dusty attic—it doesn’t mean we’re sick, just clearing our noses.  

Key sign it’s harmless: The chicken sneezes occasionally but otherwise acts perfectly normal—eating, drinking, scratching, laying eggs, and being herself.  

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When to Keep a Closer Eye  

Sometimes sneezing is a warning sign that something’s irritating your birds. These are situations where I slow down and watch carefully:  

- Coop ventilation issues – Ammonia fumes build up fast in poorly ventilated coops. If you smell “barnyard stink,” your hens’ lungs are already irritated.  
- Seasonal changes – Sudden cold, damp, or windy weather can cause light respiratory stress.  
- Dust overload – Too much dusty bedding or feed can make sneezing worse.  

At this stage, a little coop cleaning or adjusting the bedding/ventilation often clears things up.  

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Red Flags: When Sneezing Might Mean Illness  

Here’s where I move from “wait and see” to “time to act.” Sneezing combined with these symptoms could point to respiratory infection:  

- Watery or bubbly eyes  
- Nasal discharge (wet or crusty nostrils)  
- Wheezing, gurgling, or rattly breathing  
- Head shaking  
- Lethargy or sitting fluffed up  
- Drop in egg production  

Some common culprits include infectious bronchitis, mycoplasma, or coryza. These range from mild but annoying to serious flock-wide problems.  

At this point, don’t wait it out—take action. Separate the sick bird if possible, clean the coop thoroughly, and consider contacting a poultry vet if symptoms don’t improve quickly.  

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When to Call the Vet  

This is always a personal choice depending on your setup, budget, and access to poultry care. But generally, I call or at least consult a vet when:  

- More than one bird shows symptoms.  
- The sick hen is getting worse instead of better.  
- There’s wheezing or discharge that doesn’t clear up.  
- The illness is affecting egg production significantly.  

Even if you can’t get a prescription, a vet can help confirm what you’re dealing with so you know whether it’s contagious or not.  

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Prevention Beats Panic  

The best way to handle sneezing? Try to prevent it from becoming a bigger problem in the first place. Some tips that work for me:  

- Keep the coop well-ventilated (fresh air without drafts).  
- Avoid super dusty bedding and feeds.  
- Clean out wet spots quickly to stop mold and ammonia.  
- Add apple cider vinegar to water occasionally—it supports respiratory health.  
- Quarantine new birds before adding them to the flock.  

A little prevention goes a long way toward keeping sneezes just sneezes.  

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Final Thoughts  

So when do you worry, and when do you wait it out?  
- A random sneeze now and then—don’t stress.  
- Persistent sneezing with no other signs—check dust, bedding, and ventilation.  
- Sneezing with discharge, wheezing, or lethargy—time to step in, separate the bird, and maybe call a vet.  

Chickens are tougher than we sometimes give them credit for, but they’re also good at hiding illness until it’s advanced. Keep an eye out, trust your gut, and don’t be afraid to ask for help.  

👉 I put together a full guide with step-by-step checks and treatments if you’d like to dive deeper:  
How to Treat a Sneezing Chicken  

Now I’d love to hear from you—how do you handle sneezing in your flock? Do you have a “wait and see” rule, or do you jump into action right away?  

I’ve noticed something funny in my chicken-keeping journey: every chart I see about coop size gives me different numbers. One book says 2 square feet per hen, another swears by 4–6, and then there’s always someone who insists on 10. Meanwhile, my hens clearly have their *own* opinions—and they’re not shy about showing it!  

That got me thinking: maybe we’re looking at this the wrong way. Instead of following rigid charts, maybe we need to pay more attention to what actually happens inside our flocks.  

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Why Coop Size Isn’t Just Math  

A coop isn’t just a box to lock chickens in at night. It’s their safe space, their nest, and sometimes their bad-weather hideout. The wrong size can affect:  

- Behavior – Too small and you’ll see bullying, feather picking, and cranky hens.  
- Health – Overcrowding means dirtier bedding, ammonia smells, and more illness.  
- Eggs – Stressed hens lay fewer eggs, plain and simple.  

So while the charts are useful starting points, they don’t tell the whole story.  

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The Context Matters  

How much space a chicken “needs” really depends on lifestyle:  

- Locked in all day? They’ll need a lot more room indoors—closer to 8–10 sq ft each.  
- Coop + run setup? 4–5 sq ft inside often works fine.  
- Mostly free-range? The coop can be smaller since they’re only in it at night.  

That’s why two keepers can give totally different answers—and both be right.  

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What I’ve Seen in My Own Flock  

I once had six hens in a coop that technically followed the “4 sq ft per bird” rule. On paper, it was perfect. In real life? Total chaos. They squabbled at roosting time, egg production dropped, and the bedding was a mess. When I expanded the coop just a bit, the difference was night and day—they calmed down, slept without drama, and the smell issue disappeared.  

Lesson learned: my hens knew better than the chart.  

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The Permaculture Angle  

Since this is Permies, I want to highlight another side of coop sizing: right-sizing for your system.  

- Too small, and your birds suffer.  
- Too big, and you’re wasting resources—more materials to build, more space to heat in winter, and often more cleaning.  

Sometimes the best coop is one that’s flexible. I’ve seen people design coops with sliding partitions so you can shrink the space in winter (keeps the flock warmer) and expand it in summer. Others integrate the coop directly into a greenhouse or barn, making smarter use of space and resources.  

That’s very much the permaculture way: efficiency, comfort, and balance.  

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So, How Big Should It Really Be?  

Honestly? Big enough that your hens don’t look stressed, smell bad, or fight for space. Start with the charts as a guide, but then let your birds—and your system—be the final judge.  

If you’d like to dig into the nitty-gritty (numbers, examples, design tips), I put together a full guide here:  
👉 How Big Should a Chicken Coop Be?  

But I’d love to hear from the Permies community: How much space have you found works best for your flock? Do you design for the charts, or do you let your chickens call the shots?  

Hey everyone,

Let's have some real talk. As much as we love the positive side of homesteading—the fresh eggs, the garden fertility, the joy of watching chickens be chickens—we also have a responsibility to be prepared for the hard stuff. And when it comes to poultry, it doesn't get much harder than Virulent Newcastle Disease (vND).

This isn't just another case of the sniffles. It's a highly contagious virus that can move through a flock with devastating speed and mortality. Knowing the early warning signs isn't just good practice; it's the most powerful tool you have to protect your birds and potentially your neighbors' flocks too.

What Are We Looking For? The Warning Signs

Newcastle can look like a few different things, but it generally hits the respiratory, nervous, or digestive systems. The key is to look for a combination of these signs, especially if they appear suddenly.

1. Respiratory Distress (The First Clue) This is often where it starts. It can look like a common cold, but it's often more severe.

Gasping for air, coughing, sneezing
Nasal discharge (runny nose)
Audible, rattling breathing sounds
2. Nervous System Signs (The Telltale Signs) This is the most frightening and recognizable stage. If you see these, you should be on high alert.

Twisted Neck: The bird's head is twisted upside down or to the side, a condition called torticollis (also known as "stargazing").
Paralysis: Drooping wings or dragging legs.
Tremors and Spasms: Uncontrollable muscle tremors or circling.
3. Sudden Production and Digestive Issues

Complete stop in egg laying. Not just a slowdown, but a sudden, flock-wide halt.
Production of thin-shelled or misshapen eggs right before laying stops.
Greenish, watery diarrhea.
4. General "Sick Bird" Look This includes the classic signs of a very ill chicken. They may be lethargic, depressed, and huddled with ruffled feathers. While many things can cause this, seeing it combined with the signs above is a major red flag.

A bird can be lethargic for many reasons, from simple heat stress to something more common like being egg-bound. It's useful to know what else could be going on. This is a good resource for figuring that out: Why is My Chicken Lethargic? 17 Causes & How to Help

Okay, I See These Signs. What Do I Do NOW?

If you suspect Newcastle, you must act fast. This is not a "wait and see" or "treat with herbs" situation.

Step 1: ISOLATE. Immediately separate any bird showing symptoms from the rest of the flock. Handle the healthy birds first, then the sick ones, never the other way around.

Step 2: BIOSECURITY LOCKDOWN. This means no movement of birds on or off your property. Change your clothes and shoes after contact with the sick birds. Disinfect feeders, waterers, and tools. The virus can travel on your shoes, clothes, and equipment.

Step 3: CALL FOR HELP. This is not optional. There is no cure for Newcastle Disease. You need to contact a professional immediately.

Your local veterinarian.
Your state veterinarian or state poultry association.
Newcastle is a reportable disease in many places. A professional can give you a diagnosis and tell you the required next steps for your area. For general guidance on when to make that call, this is a helpful read: When to Call the Vet for a Backyard Chicken

Prevention: The Best Permie Approach

The best way to "treat" Newcastle is to never get it. This is where homestead design and good observation come in.

Quarantine is King: NEVER add new birds directly to your flock. Keep them in a separate area for at least 30 days to watch for any signs of illness.
Control Access: Limit visitors to your coop area. If people do visit, have a simple foot bath with a disinfectant they can step in. Don't share equipment with other poultry owners unless it's been thoroughly disinfected.
Wild Bird Buffer: While we love wildlife, it's best to discourage wild birds (especially pigeons and doves) from sharing food and water with your flock, as they can be carriers. Keep your coop and run clean to avoid attracting them.
Build Resilience: A healthy flock with a varied diet, clean living conditions, and low stress is better equipped to handle any health challenge.
Dealing with a disease this serious is a heavy topic, but being prepared is part of being a responsible steward of our animals.

Have any of you had to deal with a serious biosecurity scare? What are your go-to quarantine procedures for new animals on the homestead?

Hey fellow permies,

A question I see pop up a lot, both online and in local homesteading groups, is about turning our beloved backyard flocks into something that pays for itself... and maybe even generates a little income.

We all know the joy of raising a few hens for our family's breakfast table. But when does a flock cross the line from a "household expense" to a "profitable venture"?

I wanted to move beyond the simple "how many for a family of 4" question and dive into the numbers for a small, homestead-scale business. What does "profitable" really mean, and how many birds does it take to get there?

Redefining "Profit" on the Homestead

First, let's be clear. For a permie, profit isn't just cash in hand. The "real" profit from chickens is an integrated one:

Black Gold: Free, high-nitrogen fertilizer for the garden. The value of this alone can be huge.
Pest Patrol: Chickens are ruthless on slugs, ticks, and other pests.
Soil Builders: In a chicken tractor, they till, weed, and fertilize a garden bed for you.
Waste Converters: They turn kitchen scraps and garden surplus into high-protein eggs.
But for this discussion, let's focus on the cash. How many birds do you need to sell enough eggs to cover their costs and make a financial profit?

The Numbers: A Small Business Case Study (25 Layers)

Let's start with a flock of 25 layers, a common starting point for selling at a farm stand or to neighbors.

1. Upfront Costs (The Big Hit)

This is your initial investment. You can definitely scrounge and build for less, but here's a rough estimate:

The Birds: 25 dual-purpose or layer pullets (4-6 weeks old) at $15-$25 each could be $375 - $625. Starting with day-olds is cheaper but requires more intensive brooding.
The Housing: A sturdy, predator-proof coop/tractor for 25 birds. If you build it yourself using reclaimed materials, you might spend $300. If you buy a kit or use all new materials, it could easily be $800+.
Infrastructure: Feeders, waterers, fencing, etc. Budget at least $150.
Total Upfront Cost: ~$825 - $1,575+

2. Recurring Costs (The Feed Monster)

Feed is the single biggest expense in any poultry operation. This is where permaculture principles can make or break your profitability.

Standard Feed: A 50 lb bag of quality layer feed is about $25-$35. 25 hens will eat roughly 100-125 lbs of feed per month. That's 2-3 bags.
Monthly Feed Cost: $50 - $105
Reducing Feed Costs: This is your key to profit! Supplementing with free-ranging, growing fodder (barley, oats), raising mealworms, or making fermented feed can drastically cut this cost. If you can cut your feed bill by 50%, your profit margin explodes.
3. The Income: Egg Sales

A good layer will produce about 5-6 eggs a week in her prime.

Production: 25 hens x 5 eggs/week = 125 eggs per week (or about 10 dozen).
Pricing: This is crucial. If you sell at standard grocery store prices ($3/dozen), you'll struggle. But if you're selling fresh, pasture-raised eggs, you can often get $5 - $8 per dozen at a farmers' market or to local buyers.
Monthly Gross Income: 10 dozen/week x 4 weeks x $6/dozen = $240
The Verdict: Is a 25-Bird Flock Profitable?

Gross Monthly Income: $240
Monthly Feed Cost: ~$75 (let's use a middle ground figure)
Monthly Cash Profit: ~$165
So, yes, a 25-hen flock can be profitable on a monthly basis!

However, it would take about 5-10 months of selling eggs just to pay back your initial setup costs. The real, clear profit starts after that.

Scaling Up: The Sweet Spot

50 Birds: This is often considered the "sweet spot" for a serious side hustle. You can start buying feed in bulk (by the pallet), which lowers your cost per bag. Your income doubles, but your labor increases significantly. This is the point where it starts to feel like a part-time job.
100+ Birds: At this scale, you are running a small business. You need efficient systems for collection, cleaning, and packaging. You also need a solid, consistent market for over 40 dozen eggs a week.
Conclusion: Start with Your Goal

The number of chickens you need depends entirely on your definition of "profit."

To feed your family: 4-6 hens is usually plenty. For a starting point on calculating this, I found a good basic guide. You can read it here: How Many Chickens Do You Need for a Family of 4?
To cover the flock's own costs: 10-15 hens might do it if you have a good market for a few dozen eggs a week.
To generate a reliable side income: 25-50 hens seems to be the magic number for many homesteaders.
What are your experiences? For those of you who sell eggs, how many birds do you keep, and what have you found to be the biggest challenge to profitability?

When I started my first batch of broilers, I was excited but also overwhelmed by the number of feed brands on the market. I remember standing in front of the feed store, staring at bags labeled Topfeeds, Vital Feeds, Hybrid, Animal Care, and Chikun, wondering which one would help my birds grow fastest and healthiest in just six weeks.

Over the years, I’ve tried almost every major brand, made mistakes, and learned valuable lessons. Here’s my story, along with tips and insights to help you choose the best feed for your broilers.

The Early Days: Learning the Hard Way

My first batch of 50 broilers was a mix of excitement and anxiety. I chose a cheaper, lesser-known feed brand to save money. At first, the chicks seemed fine, but by the third week, I noticed uneven growth. Some birds were thriving, while others lagged behind. I realized that not all feeds are created equal—quality matters.

Tip: Don’t be tempted by the lowest price. Cheap feed can cost you more in the long run through poor growth and higher mortality.

Experimenting with Popular Brands

Topfeeds: Consistency is Key
After my rocky start, I switched to Topfeeds on a friend’s recommendation. The difference was clear within two weeks. The birds were more active, their feathers looked healthier, and their weight gain was more uniform. I also noticed less feed wastage, probably because the birds found the feed more palatable.

Insight: Consistency in feed quality leads to consistency in bird growth. Topfeeds became my go-to for a while, especially when I wanted predictable results.

Vital Feeds: For Strong Immunity
Curious to see if I could do even better, I tried Vital Feeds for my next batch. I was impressed by how robust the birds became. They seemed less prone to common diseases, and their droppings were firmer, which made cleaning easier.

Tip: If you’re raising broilers during the rainy season or in a high-risk area for disease, a feed like Vital Feeds that supports immunity can be a game-changer.

Hybrid Feeds: Budget-Friendly, But Monitor Closely
There was a time when my budget was tight, so I opted for Hybrid Feeds. The price was right, and the birds grew decently, but I had to pay closer attention. I supplemented with vitamins and made sure the feed was always fresh.

Advice: If you use a more affordable brand, be proactive. Monitor your birds’ growth weekly and be ready to supplement if needed.

Animal Care Feeds: Premium Performance
When I wanted to push for the best possible results, I invested in Animal Care Feeds. The birds grew fast, with excellent feed conversion. I noticed less feed wastage and firmer droppings, which meant better digestion and less mess.

Insight: Sometimes, paying a bit more for premium feed pays off in faster growth and less overall waste.

Chikun Feeds: Early Market Weight
One of my most surprising experiences was with Chikun Feeds. My broilers reached market weight a few days earlier than usual, which meant I could sell them sooner and start a new batch. The birds also had strong legs and good feathering.

Tip: If you’re aiming for quick turnover, Chikun Feeds might be worth a try.

Lessons Learned: How to Choose the Right Feed

[*] Ask Around: Talk to local farmers. Sometimes, a brand performs better in one region than another due to ingredient sourcing.
[*] Try Small Batches: Test a new feed with a small group before switching your entire flock.
[*] Monitor Closely: Weigh your birds weekly and keep records. If you notice slow growth, don’t hesitate to switch brands.
[*] Check for Freshness: Always inspect feed for mold or off smells. Even the best brand can have a bad batch.
[*] Stage-Specific Feeding: Use starter, grower, and finisher feeds at the right times for optimal results.

How Much Feed Will You Need?

No matter which brand you choose, knowing how much feed to buy is crucial. On average, each broiler will eat about 4-5 kg of feed from day-old to market weight (6 weeks). For 50 broilers, that’s about 200-250 kg of feed.

For a detailed breakdown by week, or to calculate feed for larger flocks, don't miss my comprehensive guide:
Click Here for the Full Broiler Feed Calculation Guide – Plan Your Next Batch with Confidence!

What About You?

[*] Which feed brand has worked best for your broilers?
[*] Have you noticed differences in growth, health, or feed wastage between brands?
[*] Do you have any tips for getting the most out of your chosen feed?

I’d love to hear your stories and advice! Let’s help each other raise healthier, more profitable broilers.

If you have questions or want to share your experience, drop a comment below. And remember to check out the feed calculation guide for even more tips on planning your next successful batch!