Alex Dombrowski

William Kellogg wrote:Ladybugs are good natural predators. Be sure they have a small water source at the base of the affected plant. You can buy a pack of ladybugs at some garden stores and keep it in the refrigerator where they will hibernate so you can introduce a few at a time.

Ladybugs are definitely one of the best natural options if you're dealing with aphids or other soft-bodied pests. I've had good results releasing them in the evening after watering the plants, since they're less likely to fly away right away. Keeping a shallow water source nearby and avoiding broad-spectrum insecticides also helps them stick around and do their job.

I wouldn't freeze them. Peach pits usually need a period of cold, moist stratification, not deep freezing. If it were me, I'd clean the pits, let them dry for a day or two, then keep them in slightly damp peat moss or paper towels in a sealed bag in the refrigerator for a couple of months. After that, plant them in a pot and be patient- some sprout quickly, others take a while.

Fresh pits can sometimes germinate if planted outdoors in the fall and left to go through winter naturally, but in South Texas you may not get enough consistent chill for that to work reliably.

If you're looking for a straightforward overview of peach seed germination and a few other propagation tips, it's worth having a read here. I found it useful as a starting point before experimenting myself.
One thing to keep in mind is that seedlings usually won't produce fruit identical to the peach they came from. That's part of the fun, though- you never know exactly what you'll end up with.

Pearl Sutton wrote:

Judith Browning wrote:I wonder about using some of the non woven things used in clothing construction like pelon or some other interfacing fabric sold by the yard (or something similar to the vacuum cleaner bags mentioned in Anne's quote above) that might filter but not make such a humidity pocket behind the mask like a cotton fabric does?

If you make it so it doesn't sit right on the face it would help. Ever worn a proper gas mask with filters? The face part is a rubber thing that makes an airspace above the nose and mouth, the filters come in off the side. Some of them have a one way valve exhale ports. That might all be ideas to look at. I'm a recycle type, I'd probably use something like a margarine tub out of the trash that I heat shape, then add filters to the sides, and output with one way flaps and separate filters. hmm. Now you have me thinking...

Thinking on it more, if the input and output filters are separate items, you can change/wash/throw away only the ones you need to. If the mask is on a person with CV, change the output filter more, their inputs will last longer. The caregiver though would change their inputs more, their output will last longer.

This is a paint spray mask, visual of what I'm thinking of... Only homemade, and with the output filtered too...

The idea actually makes sense-you’re basically describing a separated inhalation/exhalation system with replaceable filters, similar to professional respirators.

But there’s one key issue: in real systems like that, everything depends on a proper seal and carefully engineered airflow resistance. In DIY versions, the common problems usually aren’t the concept itself, but things like:

the mask not sealing tightly enough to the face (even small leaks drastically reduce effectiveness),
one-way valves not functioning reliably or allowing backflow,
materials (like plastic containers) deforming and losing shape or airtightness with heat, moisture, and breathing pressure.

Your idea of separating intake and exhaust filters is actually used in professional-grade equipment, especially in medical and industrial respirators. However, those systems are tested and certified, because without proper validation the real-world protection level can drop significantly.

If you wanted to develop this further, the safer and more practical approach would be to start from a certified respirator facepiece and then explore modular or replaceable filter configurations around that, rather than building the entire structure from scratch.

Overall, it’s an interesting line of thinking but this is one of those areas where “almost works” can effectively mean “doesn’t protect.”

Ficus lyrata (fiddle-leaf fig) is gorgeous, but it can definitely be a bit dramatic compared to easier tropicals. Bright indirect light is the big key - when happy they grow fast and become stunning statement plants, but they can sulk if lighting or watering changes too much. Still, they’re absolutely worth trying if you like big architectural plants.

Also great for grow Ficus lyrata care guide:
https://botanapp.com/plant/ficus-lyrata

Mung bean sprouts are brilliant because they’re cheap, easy and surprisingly productive. I still remember doing the mustard and cress thing on cotton wool at school too - funny how those simple projects stick with you. Fresh homegrown sprouts taste so much better than store-bought ones, especially in stir fries and sandwiches. If you grow the mung beans in the garden as well, you can even let some mature fully and harvest your own seed for the next batch. The Asian grocery find sounds like a win — proper belacan and fresh sprouts are a great combo for nasi goreng.

Hi Judith, thanks for the reply and the spore print update - I went back and had a look, that definitely helps a lot and makes the wine cap ID even more convincing.

I totally get your approach, books and local mycology folks are usually way more reliable than any app or quick online tool. Google Lens can be hit or miss, especially with older or weathered specimens, so I wouldn’t rely on it alone either. Permies is actually a great mix because you get both experience and discussion instead of just an automated guess.

Wow, that’s awesome - both the idea and the execution. Using cedar limbs and even mini shake shingles is such a cool touch, sounds like a ton of detail went into it and it looks super amazing.

Those actually do look a lot like wine caps to me - especially the color, the cracking on the caps, the dark gills, and the fact they’re growing in wood-rich beds. The ring on the stem you mentioned earlier also fits. That said, they’re pretty mature and beat up, which makes ID less certain. There are a few lookalikes, so I still wouldn’t call it 100% without seeing younger specimens or doing a spore print. If they come back, try to catch them earlier - wine caps usually have a more rounded cap when young and a clearer ring. A dark purplish-brown spore print would also support that ID. If it is wine cap, you’re in luck - they spread really well in wood chips. Just add fresh chips and keep it moist, and they’ll likely establish themselves in that path over time.

In any case, I recommend always using two tools if you're unsure about something like that:
1. google lens
2. instant plant identification

Yeah, I save seeds most years. Storage-wise you’re on the right track so keeping them cool, dry, and dark matters more than the container itself. I usually throw in a silica packet just to keep moisture down. As for age, it really depends on the crop. Things like tomatoes, peppers, and brassicas can stay viable quite a long time (5–10 years sometimes), but onions, parsnips, and corn drop off fast. Squash and cucumbers usually hold up pretty well for several years if stored right. With 8–10 year old seeds, you’ll probably see lower germination, but some should still pop. You can always do a quick germination test indoors (paper towel method) before planting to get an idea. Honestly, I do the same thing usually as you plant them anyway and see what happens