Alex Dombrowski

Acidification seems like a promising route, but I’d be cautious about assuming that lowering the pH alone guarantees shelf stability. The final pH, how consistently it’s reached throughout the batch, and the cleanliness of the process all matter. I’d be interested to know whether anyone has tested phosphoric acid against other food-grade acids for this purpose, and whether the finished product was actually tested for microbial stability over time. Keeping it refrigerated until the preservation method is properly validated seems like the safer approach, especially with a homemade hydrolysate.

Allelopathy is definitely worth discussing more, especially in polyculture systems where plants can influence each other in ways that aren’t always obvious. Black walnut is a classic example because it produces juglone, while plants such as rye release benzoxazinoids that can affect the germination and growth of neighbouring plants. The tricky part is distinguishing effects observed in laboratory studies from what actually happens in a diverse garden, where soil microbes, decomposition and plant density all play a role. I’d be interested to see both lists, particularly with evidence of which compounds have meaningful effects under real growing conditions rather than just theoretical potential.

It’s an interesting idea. Garlic and onions contain compounds with antimicrobial properties, but I’m not sure how much protection companion planting would actually provide against soil-borne potato diseases under garden conditions. Soil health, drainage and crop rotation are probably just as important. This guide on understanding soil https://botanapp.com/soil could also be useful when looking at the conditions in your plot. It would be interesting to try a small comparison between potatoes planted with alliums and a control row to see whether there’s any noticeable difference.

Russell Apotheker wrote:Anybody growing this root that's native to Ethiopia? I was browsing expiremental farm network and picked up some seeds that are now germinating.

https://store.experimentalfarmnetwork.org/products/addi-anchote-white-hanchotte

I hadnt heard of addi anchote before, so this is interesting. Itll be good to see how it handles a Vermont growing season, especially with the shorter summers. Have you found much information about how long it takes to develop a decent-sized root from seed? I'd be curious to hear how it does once the plants get established.

I’ve never grown yacon myself, but it’s interesting how much height it can put on in one season. Seven feet in a container is quite something. I’ve read that the tubers need a long enough growing season to develop properly, so I’d be curious to see what kind of harvest you get after starting them in March. The leaves are pretty distinctive too. I sometimes have trouble identifying plants just from their foliage, and this guide is useful for comparing leaf shapes and patterns https://plantidentificationguide.com/plant-id/leaves.

I agree, Aloe vera is one of those plants that seems much harder to grow than it actually is. The biggest thing I've learned with mine is that getting the light right makes a huge difference. Too little light and the leaves can become stretched and lose that compact shape, while too much sudden direct sun can cause problems as well.

I also think people sometimes underestimate how much difference the location makes. A bright windowsill can be perfect, but moving an aloe from a relatively shaded spot straight into strong summer sun can leave it with scorched leaves. There’s a good Aloe vera light guide https://botanapp.com/plant/aloe-vera/light that explains the different light conditions and what to look for.

The watering advice is important too. I think overwatering is probably a much bigger danger for aloe than forgetting to water it occasionally. With a gritty, well-draining mix and a pot with drainage, it's a surprisingly forgiving plant.

Thom Bri wrote:I have never had the first luck with cherries. This year rather than try chilling and all that, I am just burying handfuls of seeds in a pot of potting soil. They'll sit there all year and through the winter and we shall see. Putting them in the fridge was a big zero, maybe neglect will work.

It's funny, there are wild cherries sprouting everywhere, like weeds. Wish the sweet cherries were as congenial.

Honestly, sometimes neglect seems to work better than overthinking it!  Cherry seeds can be pretty stubborn, but burying a bunch of them and letting nature handle the cold stratification might actually give you better odds than trying to recreate winter in the fridge.

And I know what you mean about the wild cherries - they seem to sprout everywhere with absolutely no help, while the sweet ones act like they're doing you a personal favor. Hopefully you get a few volunteers in that pot next spring!

William Kellogg wrote:Ladybugs are good natural predators. Be sure they have a small water source at the base of the affected plant. You can buy a pack of ladybugs at some garden stores and keep it in the refrigerator where they will hibernate so you can introduce a few at a time.

Ladybugs are definitely one of the best natural options if you're dealing with aphids or other soft-bodied pests. I've had good results releasing them in the evening after watering the plants, since they're less likely to fly away right away. Keeping a shallow water source nearby and avoiding broad-spectrum insecticides also helps them stick around and do their job.

I wouldn't freeze them. Peach pits usually need a period of cold, moist stratification, not deep freezing. If it were me, I'd clean the pits, let them dry for a day or two, then keep them in slightly damp peat moss or paper towels in a sealed bag in the refrigerator for a couple of months. After that, plant them in a pot and be patient- some sprout quickly, others take a while.

Fresh pits can sometimes germinate if planted outdoors in the fall and left to go through winter naturally, but in South Texas you may not get enough consistent chill for that to work reliably.

If you're looking for a straightforward overview of peach seed germination and a few other propagation tips, it's worth having a read here. I found it useful as a starting point before experimenting myself.
One thing to keep in mind is that seedlings usually won't produce fruit identical to the peach they came from. That's part of the fun, though- you never know exactly what you'll end up with.

Pearl Sutton wrote:

Judith Browning wrote:I wonder about using some of the non woven things used in clothing construction like pelon or some other interfacing fabric sold by the yard (or something similar to the vacuum cleaner bags mentioned in Anne's quote above) that might filter but not make such a humidity pocket behind the mask like a cotton fabric does?

If you make it so it doesn't sit right on the face it would help. Ever worn a proper gas mask with filters? The face part is a rubber thing that makes an airspace above the nose and mouth, the filters come in off the side. Some of them have a one way valve exhale ports. That might all be ideas to look at. I'm a recycle type, I'd probably use something like a margarine tub out of the trash that I heat shape, then add filters to the sides, and output with one way flaps and separate filters. hmm. Now you have me thinking...

Thinking on it more, if the input and output filters are separate items, you can change/wash/throw away only the ones you need to. If the mask is on a person with CV, change the output filter more, their inputs will last longer. The caregiver though would change their inputs more, their output will last longer.

This is a paint spray mask, visual of what I'm thinking of... Only homemade, and with the output filtered too...

The idea actually makes sense-you’re basically describing a separated inhalation/exhalation system with replaceable filters, similar to professional respirators.

But there’s one key issue: in real systems like that, everything depends on a proper seal and carefully engineered airflow resistance. In DIY versions, the common problems usually aren’t the concept itself, but things like:

the mask not sealing tightly enough to the face (even small leaks drastically reduce effectiveness),
one-way valves not functioning reliably or allowing backflow,
materials (like plastic containers) deforming and losing shape or airtightness with heat, moisture, and breathing pressure.

Your idea of separating intake and exhaust filters is actually used in professional-grade equipment, especially in medical and industrial respirators. However, those systems are tested and certified, because without proper validation the real-world protection level can drop significantly.

If you wanted to develop this further, the safer and more practical approach would be to start from a certified respirator facepiece and then explore modular or replaceable filter configurations around that, rather than building the entire structure from scratch.

Overall, it’s an interesting line of thinking but this is one of those areas where “almost works” can effectively mean “doesn’t protect.”