sticky burr

ok how about wool elmer fudd hat 90% of the body's heat thru the head and such.
one or  many of the solar beer can stack heaters and thermal mass

paul wheaton wrote:

If the power company said "Hey buddy, if you have incandescent lights that you are leaving on for four or more hours at a time, then you could save money by switching to fluorescent" then that would make sense.   And it would be true. 

you forget most attention spans are not that long its the 15 second sound bites that sells 30 seconds are really pushing it. 35 seconds they have changed the channel

i have no idea and i am a pack rat sooo. if you find one grab it if you dont need it maybe a friend will

  welll first oddly electric is 100% efficient its far from 100% getting it to you you might get only 80-90% from the natural gas generator and lose 25% in transmission .. but point of use

atleast wool area carpet NOT gobi desert expanding chinese wool but ethicial educated purchase .

do like the old english in stone building did tapastries , no where near your heat source though

the stick on reflective window films on the north side  maybe the east and west

heavy drapes that will be closed at night to hold heat

as for the nuts so maybe 1-2 R addition re paint with ceramic or ceno speres added to the paint

and yes thermal mass in the room might help

i was wondering what was claimed and i got 93% for the 5000$ wood stoves cataylic has to be checked 3 times a cold season so red is the expert as stated what does the 93% represent the thermal extraction or the burn? if its the burn only and of the ~1300 degree heat we are shooting 400-600 ( i seem to recall you saying it needs to be 400 degrees for draft or something to the point) degree heat up out the flue i dont think thats at all 93% seems more like ~30-50% thats why i am more inclined to think that a rocket mass maybe around 90% if the 1300 degree flame pputs out ~130 degree water vapor etc thats 90%

so i ask what does both sides define as 90% ?

if you want to research acclimate or find a rarer non commercial variety awesome. otherwise check with seed savers or just buy seed and save.
i personally want to raise more historic plants and acclimate them to the local conditions.. the weak or non choice will be culled ie if some plants are slow to emerge or if some come down with illness pull em and compost .. if you want early maturity if some come in late pull them. then of the choice plants re plant the seed.  and repeat the process and manipulate your germoplastic pool no different than culling live stock .. of course selctive breeding and planting 10,000 head of corn is not really possible with this maybe  100-200 plants. you can be lazy and use a machette or pruners but i prefer to get rid of all the plant  oh and by all means taste test your corn etc. also by all means publish the results

this actually sounds fun .. do they quinoa varieties to play with i would love to work to get this acclimated to local conditions .... and the peasants rejoice 

well 90% effeciant at WHAT? burning the fuel which is what stoves are rated or harvesting the heat as rockets are referenced . given the volatiles are burnt off at 1000-1300 F if the stove achieves that (or 90% of that) its effeciant even if all the heat made is shot up a chimney?  on the other hand if a rocket achieves 1300 burn temp and the exit temp is ~130 not only did we burn it efficiently we harvested the energy at 90% which is the true test of efficancy.
not only burning it 90% well but burning it 100% well extracting 90% the resulting energy

should be done with savaged material as nice shiny metal containers are expensive. i thought it was going to be a cooling mech like in a propane fridge with a fresnel lens pointing at the evaporator instead of using propane or natural gas. this gets me thinking ... now to find a chest type freezer that runs on propane. if i shift the evap coil to the outside and shaded with a fresnel in place of the propane flame .. annother frankenstein monster is born

here is my noob idea can be modified as in the "preheater mass" can continuse downcould hold the finishing pan up with a brick wall with many air gaps .. ie 10 1 - 2 inch per side to let the drum cool and cause suction . i am working on the assumption forgive me if i forgot but the 'closer to finished product' has to be hotter as the boiling point rises during concentration. i used the the exess flue heat to warm a "mass" of sap from inside storage putting ice cold sap would probally cause a back rush nd might want to vent the preheater incase there is any water vapor

i was thinking the same .. either  as the reburn? chamber with a cast iron plate in the top or cob cement or brick with a air gap or right now i am thinking is regular barrel with a erm 2 inch air gap and a single or double row core red brick with air vents on bottom to allow some air flow while catching radiant heat.