My books, movies, videos, podcasts, events ... the big collection of paul wheaton stuff!
My books, movies, videos, podcasts, events ... the big collection of paul wheaton stuff!
Rabid Chipmunk wrote:
I used to be on electric baseboards in my old house - with a well and septic tank. When we sold, the real estate agent told us that people perceived electric heat as being extremely expensive. Now I pay $20 each for gas, electricity, and town water. You know $40 per month can buy lots of electricity!
One good thing about electric heat is that you can waste all the electricity that you want in your living space during heating season, and it's free since the wasted electricity is typically dissipated as heat - which offsets the baseboards. For example, save up your baking, ironing, dehydrating, etc. for cold days - and it's free as long as you would otherwise be heating with baseboards.
Al Loria wrote:
Raise humidity level within the home in winter. Big help when we did that.
"the qualities of these bacteria, like the heat of the sun, electricity, or the qualities of metals, are part of the storehouse of knowledge of all men. They are manifestations of the laws of nature, free to all men and reserved exclusively to none." SCOTUS, Funk Bros. Seed Co. v. Kale Inoculant Co.
Rabid Chipmunk wrote:
One good thing about electric heat is that you can waste all the electricity that you want in your living space during heating season, and it's free since the wasted electricity is typically dissipated as heat - which offsets the baseboards. For example, save up your baking, ironing, dehydrating, etc. for cold days - and it's free as long as you would otherwise be heating with baseboards.
My books, movies, videos, podcasts, events ... the big collection of paul wheaton stuff!
My books, movies, videos, podcasts, events ... the big collection of paul wheaton stuff!
paul wheaton wrote:
As the cooler days approach, I went and prepared for this years experiments in heat.
I have set the thermostats to 50.
paul wheaton wrote:
I have purchased:
a 300 watt radiant heater
charles johnson "carbonout" wrote:
paul how about a link to that 300w heater
i
have a heated matress pad love it http://cozywinters.com/shop/pf-shplmp.html
My books, movies, videos, podcasts, events ... the big collection of paul wheaton stuff!
sparger wrote:
Y'all are kind of going crazy in here.
1. Incandescents are not as efficient as baseboard heaters, generally.
As you've observed, it's more than just about *how much* heat, it's also about *where* you heat.
Incandescent bulbs heat the ceiling - the least useful place for heat. (most useful is the floor... mmm, radiant floor heating...)
My books, movies, videos, podcasts, events ... the big collection of paul wheaton stuff!
Incandescent bulbs heat the ceiling - the least useful place for heat.
sparger wrote:
2. Gas heat is way more efficient than electric heat.
brice Moss wrote:
you can redirect your dryer vent t inside (an old nylon makes a good lint filter) and add moisture and heat while drying clothes guilt free
Len wrote:
50F which is 10C. I have had it recommended not to go below 16C or 60F... something about causing cracks from contraction I think. Please let us know how it goes
don miller; MountainDon wrote:
It really won't make any difference to the structure. Our mountain cabin is typical stick construction (2x10 wood joist floor, 2x6 walls) with both 5/8 sheetrock interior walls and some T&G wood walls. When we leave it vacant in the winter between weekend use there is no heat at all. The interior temperature drops to below freezing at times. Even with heat cycling from below freezing to 75 degrees for a couple of winters now there are no cracks in any walls or anywhere else. We can hear creaks and groans as the building warms, but those are from hidden sources it would seem. Also keep in mind that the entire exterior shell goes from summer highs to winter lows as well as the daily warm-cool cycle that occurs from winter sun heating the exterior siding in the day and the cool off that happens overnight.
The real question is how low is a person willing to allow the temperature to drop for their own personal comfort vs saving dollars spent for energy.
don miller; MountainDon wrote:
My comment was directed at "causing cracks from contraction".
Landlords tend yo be conservative in their rules, at least I am. The minimum interior air temperature to prevent freezing is going to vary a lot though between buildings. Whether or not plumbing is located in exterior walls and how well the walls are insulated are a factor, as well as how cold it drops outside. Sixty as a minimum seems rather high to me.
Len wrote:
I was thinking of flooring like tiles or some of the laminates...
Muzhik wrote:
Couldn't you rig up a pile of compost to do that for you?
My books, movies, videos, podcasts, events ... the big collection of paul wheaton stuff!
My books, movies, videos, podcasts, events ... the big collection of paul wheaton stuff!
My books, movies, videos, podcasts, events ... the big collection of paul wheaton stuff!
My books, movies, videos, podcasts, events ... the big collection of paul wheaton stuff!
My books, movies, videos, podcasts, events ... the big collection of paul wheaton stuff!
paul wheaton wrote:
58 degrees. Just the dog bed heater and the two reptile heaters: fail. The tops of my legs started to feel cold. I turned on the 100 watt bulb.
My books, movies, videos, podcasts, events ... the big collection of paul wheaton stuff!
Won't you please? Please won't you be my neighbor? - Fred Rogers. Tiny ad:
heat your home with yard waste and cardboard
https://freeheat.info
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