tipafo Hatfield

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since Jan 26, 2011
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Recent posts by tipafo Hatfield

I'll second Burra's post, a "loveable loo" really isn't too hard to build.

It's basically just  box with a hinged lid, a standard toilet seat attached to the lid, and a 5 gallon bucket inside the box.  You may be able to have the wood cut to size at the store, and just assemble it at home.

You can also buy a snap-on toilet seat from an emergency supply store.  These are a bit smallish, but do work.

You might be able to find someone to build one for you, too.

Good luck!
13 years ago
Thanks for that link, Paul, and this thread.

I've wanted a way to monetarily "reward" content for quite a while.  I hate advertising, even the truly witty stuff is ultimately annoying for being what it is.

I see a lot of content that I like, and would like to give a bit to help out.  I like the idea that my one nickel could be added to several hundred more nickels, and that might just make somebody's day.  Cool.

If I produced content, I think this would be an equally cool way to get "rewarded" for going to the trouble of producing content.

Great idea.
Kitchen scraps are great in a humanure compost pile, just as in any other compost heap.  You can even add the usual "no-no's" of composting:  meat/animal parts and dairy.

Here's the source for all things humanure: http://www.humanurehandbook.com/manual.html

Btw, from the podcasts and forum posts, I doubt that Paul uses the humanure composting system.  He seems to favor tree bogs.
14 years ago
Does your poo catcher allow you to convert your bodily waste into rich natural compost and have a nifty jingle?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3V5f5tFtJMM&feature=feedu

Didn't think so.

Let's all poop in a bucket!
14 years ago
Just to follow up on one point from an earlier post.  I recently attended a rainwater harvesting workshop in Colorado Springs, put on by the local permaculture/transition town people.

Apparently, in Colorado, it is legal to harvest rainwater in barrels, etc., and also to improve water infiltration on one's property.  The big concern are mosquitoes and foul standing water, so the big rule is to release any stored water after three (3) days.

I'm not sure how often "they" check for rainwater harvesting setups, assuming they do.  I suppose a complaint of smelly water and/or hordes of skeeters would demand imperial involvement.  A nice safe setup shouldn't cause problems.
14 years ago
Thanks, Len, for this great summary:

Len wrote:
The first question is are you sure you need electricity? If so, what do you need it for? When? Off grid power use cannot be compared to grid powered houses. Off grid power? Lights, water, refrigeration? You have stated that batteries are not sustainable, so I presume you are not using power for unsustainable things... entertainment, communication, cooking, heating....  

The next thing... where are you? Or, what are your resources? Do you have lots of sun? wind? a stream? heat? No matter your wishes, you have to work with what you have. If there is no stream, no hydro. If it always rains... no sun. So what do you have?

Once you have your resources figured out.... you know when you have batteryless power. Time to schedule power chores ... Take a freezer for example... -10 C is safe for food... but cooler will not hurt... so if using solar, for example, when the sun is shining run the freezer as cool as you can so it can be turned off when the sun does not shine. Pump water to a tank above the use while the sun shines so when it does not you still have water pressure. Wash clothes when the freezer is as cold as it gets and the tank is full. Make and use a root cellar... learn other ways to preserve food.

However, Great as daylight is.... there are times when you need lights whenthe sun is not shining the wind is not blowing and the water is not flowing.... you still need some kind of storage. You can minimise how much storage, but probably not eliminate it. The reality is that we (mankind) survived without power just fine for a long time... much longer than with. Just about every electrical device could be termed "unsustainable".

You need to define (as the Amish do) what you will allow and what you won't.



Great! Thanks again.
14 years ago
When there is no other way, I guess.

Here in Colorado, with hardpan only a few inches down, and more than a few inches deep, with little soil on top, and no existing windbreaks, I'm coming to realize the best method is to simply throw down a pile of manure, weeds and/or clippings, on a wetted spot, water well, and top it off with heaps of straw; wet the straw, too, or it'll blow away.

It's basically composting in place, and would be more so if I added kitchen scraps into the mix.  When recently reworking my composting system, I noticed the formerly dry hard ground is now "spongy" for an inch or three and holds water easily.

If you'll be planting next year, doing this now and watering the pile (and replenishing it) when needed will give you workable soil by then, with less work than being handled by a tiller.  Imo.    Lots of critters will live in and under that pile, working it over and under and tilling the ground for you. Also, you'll have a somewhat raised bed right where you want it.

I've learned that trying to run a roto-tiller through this natural concrete is foolish and tiresome.  And hot.  Better to run a wheelbarrow or haul some buckets over a few days or weekends or months for a few minutes at a time.  If wind is a problem, use some old wire fencing to keep most stuff in place.

I also do a bit of loosening with a spade fork from time to time, especially before a rare rain.  Not too much, though, and not until the ground starts getting soft, because I'm not really that into it.
14 years ago
Interesting stuff there.  Thanks.

I'm not sure yet of my soil conditions on site, except for generalities of the area.  I'm confident there will be enough dirt, clay, sand, chaff, etc. on 40 acres of High Plains to build at least one small cabin.  An assumption, to be sure, but adobe building is long known and used in this area.

And, if the dirt won't work, I'll just build the thing as a panelized system using standard dimensional lumber.  One way or another, I plan to live there.

I was leaning toward a metal roof, for the relative simplicity of buying the materials and fasteners locally, and it being lightweight.  No fancy roof hips or valleys or other fluff.

I don't intend to build more than a few small structures, of less than 200 sqft, perhaps a small house (650 sqft) much later (if I must).  It's only me, so I don't and won't need much.

Thanks again, and good luck with your projects.
14 years ago
cob
Wow.  You just changed by plans for the better in several ways.  Simple stuff, too, which I like.

I gather you favor earthbags.     I like the idea, but I really don't want to spend money on the materials.  When/if this project happens, I'll have time and labor (mine) at my disposal for defined lengths.  Money, probably not so much.

If I can pour/erect a fraction of the wall system each time, and can simply wet down the old and pour the new and keep on muddin' on, then all the better.  It can wait on me.

Building the roof first had only just begun to occur to me.  I'd been curious about ramadas a few weeks ago, did some googling, and have just perused the manual you linked to earlier, noted the detached roofing system, and now you mention doing it, too.

Great!  I had been concerned about the walls carrying the roof load, the building of the roof itself, etc., but now I could essentially build a pole barn over the building site and just close in the space I want, and use adobe for the top of the box, so to say, as well.  Yes?

Did you later join the roof and house, or not? 

Sorry to hijack the thread.  It'll get split if need be, no doubt.

Thanks again!
14 years ago
cob