Alder Burns

You can improve things by adding more outlets to the tank, so as to bring multiple hoses (as fat as possible) down to the garden.  In the garden itself, it will help to even out the distribution by having no dead-ends in your drip hoses, but rather have them loop back to the supply, even if by means of a simple "Y" connector.  Otherwise on long runs the emitters closest to the supply will get more and those at the far end less.

I've been foraging mushrooms for 30 years now, and before then, studied them with multiple field guide type books. I did not meet any more experienced pickers till I had already started to eat some of my finds.  My one line about them is that I studied mushrooms for ten years before I dared to put one in my mouth.  Since then the adventure has deepened.  Mushrooms are excellent teachers of ecology with all their subtle niches of habitat, associations with trees, and pickiness as to weather....when I've been lucky enough to have ongoing access to forest land I've been able to pretty much predict when and where there would be flushes of the common edibles like chanterelles, black trumpets, or milk caps.  The modern world is a big challenge for the new forager....there is SO much misinformation and inadequate information out there....I've seen "apps" and websites that can kill!!  I do like mushroomexpert.com and the little app "shroomify", but if I'm looking to ID and unfamiliar species to me I will use at least three resources to confirm it, one of which MUST be a printed book published before 2000.

Unless you or your partner are quite familiar with the land in question, I would plan to do as little as possible the first year except observe it and learn what's already there in depth.  This is especially true if much of it is old and undisturbed forest.  There may be rare plants and fungi there which may be valuable or even endangered.  Many of these are ephemeral...that is they only appear above ground for a short season of the year and are otherwise invisible.  It is easy to degrade or destroy them inadvertently in the process of clearing gardens, driveways, and building sites.  Depending on your situation, you might be able to live off-site nearby for this period, or dwell in such a way as to minimize your footprint, and on the most cleared or degraded part of the property (big tent? trailer? tiny house? cabin? etc.)  This also gives you the opportunity to make more detailed plans on site, decide on the micro-scale where the best places for things are, which areas to absolutely leave alone, where erosion or other issues need attention, and so on.  Pro tip....some time in a long hard rain, put on your weatherproofs and go on walkabout....you will see where water moves across the landscape...where it enters and leaves, where it accumulates, etc.  As a beginning point, this is quicker, more intuitive, and way easier than all the mapping and contouring emphasized in all the literature; and when you do get to that part, you will know more about how to go about it, where to start, etc.

I've discovered on multiple off-grid homesteads that with any serious gardening going on, the need of water for irrigation is at least ten times more than all other household uses combined; unless perhaps you are in a quite rainy climate. (This was assuming no flush toilets in use, only showers, laundry, and kitchen) So as far as total water conservation is concerned, yes, greywater is valuable, but perhaps not as valuable as many think it to be.  It's definitely not worth a lot of elaborate re-plumbing and re-working.  What I've done most places is what Art Ludwig calls a drain to mulch basin....run a wide hose....1 1/4 inch black irrigation plastic works well, direct from each drain outside at a downward slope the whole way to a dedicated pit filled with wood chips or other coarse mulch, and then plant moisture loving plants, usually perennials through shrubs to trees, all around and in it.  In temperate climates things like elderberry, blackberry, comfrey, etc.  In dry climates just about any kind of useful tree or shrub can benefit.  If the single source is very large, say in a large family or community situation, then you might need a branched drain or something like that, some way to spread the water out.  You don't want any standing, because mosquitoes, and you don't want it to clog.....I've often found that setting up some kind of sump pit at the end of the drain hose....a kind of buried bottomless pot or some such so the water comes out into empty space and drops into the mulch, rather than directly into it.  Earthworms and rodents and all will churn up that mulch and mix it with soil eventually....and this is moreso in dry climates since those things are attracted to the moisture.  In California I actually had to dig it out and put it in garden beds every year or two and place fresh mulch for this reason, whereas in wetter climate the basins seem to maintain for years.

I would check out the website ic.org  It's the premier site for intentional communities worldwide, and it's searchable by keyword and location.  Your place is out there!

When I lived ten years in relatively dry California, one of my first counterintuitive lessons was not to use mulch as a rule.  It's a fire hazard (this is a big deal in these areas!), and for some reason it ended up being a habitat for large numbers of pests like slugs, snails, earwigs, millipedes etc....way more than I've seen in other climates.  And coarse mulch never broke down....I could read print on cardboard pieces after two or three years.  Allan Savory talks about this in the holistic management stuff....in brittle climates (basically dry climates where annual evaporation exceeds precipitation) organic matter has two main routes to decomposition: 1. in the guts of ruminant animals, and 2. in a fire.  Otherwise it just sits around.  Eventually I learned to put my organic matter IN, rather than ON, the soil as a matter of course....and this went well with converting the most intensive parts of the garden to permanent raised beds with hard edging and mesh underneath because of the gophers.  One or more beds would be dug out every year and filled up with layers of organic matter, animal bedding, and soil. I would use some fine mulch in the wetter seasons, partly to avoid soil splash onto low growing veggies, but most of the summer gardesn were bare soil and drip irrigation.

Back in my commune days I canned many a load of stuff in my pressure canner over a campfire!  If you're sitting around with friends and some wine, poking at a campfire all evening anyway, might as well make it productive!  It isn't really that hard....you need to set it on an elevated grill and then dither with small wood and moving embers around to regulate the heat just so!  As others have posted, a simple propane burner or a camp stove works even easier, and you can set it up temporarily indoors if need be.
    But as a long-time (40 plus years now!) canner, canning is best for certain things and not for others.  It's a great way to put up large amounts of meat, certain fruits, broth and soups, long cooked things like tomato sauce, stuff like that.  For most green veggies it depletes the vitamins and turns them mushy...corn and green beans are the only exceptions.

I've got a bunch of birdhouse gourds hanging as we speak...vine mostly dead now but gourds still green and slowly drying.  The vine did double duty on a rough trellice of sticks against the south wall of the house for shade, now late in the season largely replaced by moonflowers.  I'll soon be reading up on how to work with them and make them suitable for martins and treating them to last.  Bottle gourds of all sorts are a very ancient and very cool plant....I believe the latest research places their origin in Africa, but they found their way all over the world to whatever climate they could grow in, well before Columbus and his ilk and their "voyages of discovery".

A good way to do these is to try to find somewhere that they self-collect so you don't have to pick them up one at a time....sweeping them up off a pavement, perhaps.  I got a bunch last spring that ended up where the downspout of a gutter dumped out.  

Among all the other good ideas here the only one I would add right off is discovering cardboard as insulation.  Maybe not the best, but it's free, easily replaced, and easy to cut and work with.  In particular, cutting pieces to fit over unnecessary, west and north facing windows in the winter.  I made panels of 3-5 thicknesses, duct taped together on the edges, just the right size to press into the window wells from the outside, with a couple of pieces of wood jammed into place to help hold them.  The windows are enough under the overhang to keep the cardboard from getting wet except in the worst storms, and wow the difference it made in those rooms.  I wish they were easier to place and remove and I'd be tempted to see if they help in summer heatwaves as well. In comparison this seems to help even more than taping plastic up on the inside, although this does continue to let light in.