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Artemesia Bloom

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since Aug 14, 2012
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Recent posts by Artemesia Bloom

Ryan

Really good questions. It was interesting to see all the different ways people are experimenting with permaculture principles.

Over the years I have drifted toward more use of animals. I try to let them do the work.
Sort of artificial migrant harvestors. I am "chopping and dropping" less and letting them do the work.
I have learned to segregate my fruit trees and bushes into sections that work well for specific animals.
Goats and sheep in the areas where thick trunks prevail.
Chickens where bush fruits prevail.
Hogs in the annual garden.
The only drawback is that animals tie you down more, unless you bring them in from your neighbors.

I definately intermix for synergy; plants that attract beneficials, nitrogen setting legumes, fruit trees and vines, nuts, etc.
But I have learned it is easier if I segregate by animal appropriate groups.
Better to have patches close to each other so the insects can cross easily.
Nature does things in patches too.
Perhaps ideally, I will find a way to rotate the patches as nature does.

I am not a big fan of replanting covers. I plant perrenials and let them evolve.
Some will self replant.
The animals do the harvesting.
Dandelion, Stinging Nettle, Plantain, Chicory, Sow Thistle, Burdock are planted for root penetration and animal nutrition.

Honey Locust, Willow, Poplar, Mulberry, Mimosa, and Lespedeza I try to grow as bushes for forage feeding and deep root penetration.

I am breaking permaculture rules by growing hybrids and grafting.
These will never be self-sustaining.
I make up for it by growing only the most disease resistant varieties.
Definately less input to control disease.
13 years ago
Even if you have an acre, looks like you may have to finagle your way to use it.
Grow crops the kids and hubby crave. They will eventually want more of that fresh stuff.
Then just tell them you must grow the other stuff also to have a full rotation to prevent disease.
Slowly, step by step, inch by inch, slowly she turns.

Animals:
Rabbit
Guinea Pig

Fruit (disease resistant for zone 6):
kids will love apples and cherries
Muscadine Grape - Noble
Veeblanc grape
America grape
Mars grape
Schuyler grape
Norton grape

Nut:
Hazelburt
13 years ago
Barrow Alaska is USDA zone 2. All of the fruits I recommended are zone 3. The only way you can make them work is with cheap greenhouses and trellacing. I would recommend frull size root stocks to withstand the extreme cold. The greenhouses would not need to be heated. But your right, it is really pushing it and may not be worthwhile. Anyone else in your area doing anything similar? Finding a nursery in your area that sells trees and vines that are known to work is your best option. Berries may be the only thing that will grow in such an extreme environment.
13 years ago
Many of the things you are doing sound good: animals with high FCR that can be fed mostly grass and legumes.
But in Arizona I doubt a greenhouse is worth the effort.
And fish farming may be tough in the desert.
I would stick with low water food sources.
Perennials that are fairly drought tolerant may be your best bet:
Asparagus, nut trees, fruit, legume trees, etc.
Your biggest advantage is that you can grow 3-4 plantings per year of vegetables and grains.
You do not need a greenhouse to take advantage of that.
Just grow the right type at the right time.
13 years ago
Now that you have explained a little more how harsh your environment is I would like to refine my recommendations.

I would recommend Russian or Siberian types (Brassica napus) of kale along with the other types.
Actually, Siberian is not a true kale, but actually a rape, and astoundingly cold hardy.

Marquette grapes are the most cold hardy grape of the bunch.
The others you may want to plant at an angle so you can lay them down and bury them every winter.
Beta is highly recommended since it is unbelievably high in resveratrol.

For cherry, the Evans / Bali / Eubank has a good chance of being productive.
They others may be less consistent.
A better idea is the American Wild Plum (Prunus americana) which is super cold hardy.

You might want to plant both Hazelnut and Hazelbert.
Hazelnut is more cold hardy.
Gives you a better chance of nuts in bad years.

Sea berry (Hippophae rhamnoides) and Rose hips (Rosa canina L.) are definate winners in super cold climates.

Since it is so hard to grow legumes, try the perennial Siberian Pea Shrub (Caragana arborescens).

Elderberry is also super cold hardy.

I do not normally recommend this because it is often more trouble than it is worth,
but row covers may be worthwhile to extend the season for you.

13 years ago
Paulo

I used to live in South Dakota, and your right. It was never that bad.
Fortunately I live a little further south now.

Back then I concentrated on cold tolerant varieties even more:
Peas - Mr. Big, Freezonian, Ice Breaker

F1 Early Butternut - I planted indoors and then moved to heated cold frame for 2 months.
Used 7 or 10 gallon pots. They are full of roots by transplant.
Top does not grow much at first since most energy spent on growing roots.

Turnip:
Seven Top (Brassica septiceps) - for greens only,
root is small and cold hardy.
F1 Topper, F1 All Top

I strongly recommend flax also. Ultra early crop.

The key is to plant all these cold tolerant varieties as soon as your local agency says to.
I have even gone out and hacked through ice to plant flax, turnip, and peas on time.
These plants are tougher than one might think.

I used to be limited to these grapes:
Beta
Marquette
Trollhaugen
Louise Swenson
Bluebell
You might also try something new: Skujinsh from Moscow

Apples:
Liberty
Freedom

Cherry:
Evans / Bali / Eubank
Surefire

Hazelbert from - I do not remember which variety I got back then:
St. Lawrence Nurseries
or
Badgersett Nursery
or
One Green World
13 years ago
Hazelnut is a very disease resistant nut tree / bush. But the nuts are a little small. You might want to try a Hazelbert hybrid. It is a cross between hazelnut and filbert. The filbert has bigger nuts but it is more disease susceptible. I think you get too much rain in Portland for almond. It demands a very dry environment. In eastern Oregan it would do ok, but I doubt Portland.
13 years ago
Your right, there does not appear to be much in the US. Most of it is in Europe and Asia with only a little in the US.
13 years ago
I would not have found out about it if you had not stated the exact scientific names
(something I can Google). Thank heavons for forums like this to help spread the word.

My frustration is that there is still so much we do not know and one can
only make educated guesses as to how to encourage these microbes once
inoculation has occurred. I do not want to reinoculate every year.

For example, Streptomyces lydicus has been used to control harmful fungus over 15 years.
But I have never been able to find any research on how to encourage it once the
soil has been inoculated.
Since Streptomyces lydicus was first isolated from flax roots, the best
I can come up with is to grow flax in rotation just before I grow a broadleaf
which is susceptible to fungus.

Once I found out that sorghum and leek encourage the broadest range of
mycorrhizal fungus, I have regularly worked them into my rotation;
especially just before crops that require lots of phosphorus.

I work chitin sources into my soil regularly (Aquatic shells and scales).
Chitin will encourage Streptomyces actinomycetes which will suppress
harmful fungus.

An even bigger concern is that many of these inoculants are being
genetically modified. It is very difficult to find out which ones are
and how they were done.
13 years ago
That makes sense. Most of the early research I could find was on grasses or trees. But the more recent research is on all vegetables: squash, roots, beans, etc. They generate nitrogen and supress harmful organisms. This should be a part of everyone's tool kit.
13 years ago