Ron Mills

Yea, I was kinda wondering about the tin foil. Hahaha
So, if I cast the J tube. That is 4" thick. What would you recommend under it? I am going over a lamanent wood floor, I had carpet padding with particle board over that.
Then brick? How much heat is going down?

wow..... i guess that's a bit over my head.
i understand that there is a formula and air flow is important, and the right amount of air flow is also important
at this time, the math isn't clicking with me. but that's ok, so the builds i was referencing, fire bricks wrapped in refractory wool. that is not the finished product,
they will be adding more to that to get the correct outer diameter?
i am getting the book, and trust you guys, your the experts, saved me from burning my house down lol
thanks guys.
i am more of a visual learner, so pics, videos, and drawings help a lot.

i think i am leaning more toward the poured refractory burn tube. liked the video you shared with me.
i am also re-figuring the base to keep heat from the floor....... well, i am removing everything i did, and starting from scratch.
so any links to good units i can look at would be appreciated.
also, this is being built in a single wide mobile home. i supported the floor with 4x4's length and up support with concrete under that.
after hearing some of the weights they were talking on the videos i am reconsidering this. i was thinking 1-1/2 tons i have a king size water bed with no support that weighs 2000 pounds
suggestions ? do you have a estimated formula for figuring weight ?
i really appreciate all your help. thanks guys

The cast heat chamber video you recommended
He built on with a 14" od barrel
And the other videos they just wrap the firebrick with refractory wool. Is that dimension not so important.
I know, I havnt read the book yet. But since I can't read that tonight, and not building mine anymore. Lol
Might as well ask. Right?
Top clearance is important for draft. Right?
Does side clearance matter?
More clearance make side of the barrel cooler?

Awesome. Thanks.
One other thing. The book I read was older.
But they specified to have a 3" air gap at the top
And 1-1/2 on the sides.
Is the 1-1/2" not necessary?
I see the ones you all have pointed me to are not making that a big deal

Ok, I lied. Lol. Another question
And thank you again for your responses

The cast burn tunnels don't have clean outs for the burn tunnel.
Does that make them more difficult to clean?
Can you put in a clean out Or not really necessary?

Thank you for all your responses
I have tore my heater apart
I have watched all the videos recommend
And will be ordering the book tomorrow
One more question for now.
Is it better to get actual book.
Could the downloaded book be viewed on iPhone ok?

other than the chimney and the steel, lol.... everything else should be fine. right??
i know those are the main parts, but i need to get this working.

if i pull this apart and cast refractory cement around it, would that work?

at this point i need to know if you think anything is salvageable?
my wife is going to kill me, lol

ok, i was on the understanding that the up pipe in the heater acted as the chimney
and the push from that went through the vent so there was no need for a up pipe
so, if i add an up pipe out side that will help?
do you think this will work for this winter?