kees ijpelaar

Hi there all


I had buy the book from Ianto Evans and Leslie Jackson.

However because of a hd crash in past I can not find the copy I buy anymore.

Is there a way to get a replacement? if you still have mine credentials,
it was I think on old email adres kees56@gmail.com or spiritman@gmail.com
Both do not excist anymore. it is some years ago I did buy it.

thanks

For Peter

where I can best buy stuff for the heaters? like stone and mortar/concrete. I did see the prise differences
are enormous.

thanks.

Did try again.


Both pipes the same diameter. Then it works but I do not be convinced this
is a clean burner because I did smell wood smoke, but do not see it.

Burn of the paint did not work, get not hot enough, but it was also very cold
close to freezing weather with wind, so the barrel did cool off.

Maybe isolating the bottom do help, but making a turbo version do work
a lot better for the temporary heater I need.

regards

William Bronson wrote:The pocket rocket I just built failed miserably, refusing to draft the up the right pipe no matter what I did.
I did take liberties with the design, using a 6" feed pipe and 3" chimney.
Evans and Jackson called for a 4" chimney.
I think I might skip past that right onto a 6" chimney.
Here is a photo of the delightfully ass-backerd burn:

I had the same problem, fire came out of the feeder and the shimney stays cold.

Feeder is 15 cm pipe and shimney is 11 cm, maybe these need the same.

These are ideal for the country,s who are in war, special cold areas.

I have build now one as a step between the who system next winter,

What is the best setup? I go also do a pipe from the bottom to top for secondary heated air.

4 cm acros, how far from bottom and how far into barrel for the out is best?.

ragrds

Hi Scott


Yes I want to do what you and others did advice, but I do also look at some more things special for learning also.

problem is that the heater get quite big for a barn where it resides and with pipes the water get into the home radiators.

These pipes under ground with isolation around it.

Here I have a change in  the draw to see if it can be smaller, when using a small core like 100mm I think this is to small.

The gap in this drawn is as big as the copper pipe is, maybe a little bit bigger for easy install. The stove met the copper pipes is
a model for me, because as you see the pipes can also done this way in the gap of the double bell.

The barn who has still to get build has a old-timer in it and a folding caravan, so it get extend 2 meter. it is 220 cm high
and has a L form around the existing barn. one side is a living corner., little bar and such. The greenhouse needs to be
removed and sell this if there is somebody interested.

Pic also contain a shoe form of the batch rocket, is this not a good way to get it more compact? this one I do not need a gap
for the gasses, because it has a upside burn system. I think here I can make also a nice one.

That is what I do look at, not to big, reasonable fast heat.

project is for next winter.

regards

Hi Peter


I have redrawn the system to look at it, and I did read a space of 13  to 18 cm is oke?

new test draw.

The system is for heating water and pump it to the living-room into a  old cast radiator
maybe two to handle weight, is there maybe even better ideas? I see people wrap pipes
around a normal metal stove and warm the floor, and do already for 3 years.

Safety is all, system needs to have a working pump and never get dry to prevent steam,
idea is using a pressure sensor who can shut a air supply to the heater and give a shutdown.

This works only for fast heat systems and not stone accumulation systems, these will keep
warming up for some time, using a barrel will cool down fast for example, a rocket system
who get shut off oxygen just stops fast.

pic of that stove is a old wood eater and stinker I do never use , but as example. the tube
around it is the idea for the brick bell batch rocket, I have also draw a smaller version for a
100 mm pipe, but is this not a little small?.

corrected pics for batch 150mm

regards

Peter van den Berg wrote:

kees ijpelaar wrote:I have now done some more drawing, looks like it go look good and also compact.

It may look compact, but the core is too large for the bell. Or the bell is too cramped for the core. In order to build a bell like that for the core, the heater will be very high.
Building a wider bell so the gases will flow freely down the sides would help already. It would be even better to lift the core from the floor to such an extend that it's above the exhaust opening.
For a well-proportioned bell: see https://permies.com/t/238503/Batch-Rocket-Build

What you could do is scaling the core down and leave the bell size as it is.

Hi Peter.

First the best wishes. gelukkig 2025.

I am happy with your respont as you are the inventer, I had already this kind of question about how big the space needs to be inside around the core.

As you did read already I need a heater who can heat a cast radiator('s) in the home, for this I need a heat exchanger made from copper tube,,
I need a kind of heater not to big, and safe because of danger of steam explosion, however do not happen this way, taking heat from between the walls
but it needs to be hot enough because a pump do pump continuously..

The core is your design, and is a 15 cm rizer version, when go smaller, I did read that it burn less good. but also smaller wood. there is somewhere
a sweet spot here?.

Or I can use a rocket mass heater, who I like very much, and a way to exchange heat from,  also with using a bell. then it can be much smaller but needs
to get hot enough for the water but not to hot.

Th drawn I did, and then the lower part, I do now this needs to be lifted, but for clarity I did keep that away.

thanks for your advise.

Most of the time usa have high costs for shipping, these are also available here,

rvs 310 can withstand 1150 degree is also quite high.

Vat do need to be paid always, the douane here do intercept all, and sometimes make
the shipping also lost is mine experience.

I go first try if the heater will work for me, making a rizer with isolated 1400 degree stones.

thanks for the offer.

Hmm I was confused about this, thought it was the riser, but is the channel.

Hi thomas


I have this as a example, the batch was a already drawn version I have just use, I can afcourse
change that, I think when use a floor tube it is much more heated and get better burn, but it will
burn to damge quite quick, maybe use here rvs is a better way, but oke, replace it is also
very easy, just pick and place.