Anna Fox

Great write-up! I've found similar results with focusing more on soil texture and moisture consistency than on fertilizers. Loose, airy soil and steady watering seem to make the biggest difference for tuber size. I've also had better luck when I limit the length of the vines that actually root,  concentrating energy on a few strong plants instead of letting every runner take hold.
For slips, I've been selecting from the fattest, healthiest roots each season, and those tend to sprout sturdier starts with thicker stems. Mulching with leaves or straw really helps stabilize the soil temperature, too. I'm curious if anyone's experimented with small potassium boosts mid-season (like diluted wood ash or kelp meal). It seems like it could help push tuber bulking without overshooting nitrogen.

It sounds like you made the right call, Pearl! Walking onions are surprisingly hardy, but those temps around 20°F can definitely damage the greens' texture. You'll probably still see some green regrowth after things warm up, though. I've found they bounce back fast once daylight increases. Dehydrating what you already gathered was a smart move, even if the tops get frostbitten, the bulbs and sets underneath will stay fine for spring growth.

That's a great suggestion from Karima. Air layering is such a gentle way to keep the momentum of a big, mature Monstera. They usually respond so well to it, too. You'll probably start to see roots forming in a few weeks if it's kept warm and humid.
It's amazing how resilient these plants are, even after a fall, they seem determined to grow back stronger!

That sounds like a great plan, Lina! Smart to start with the borders and hedge strips first so you can see how the land responds before tackling larger sections. With your Mediterranean coastal climate, creating shaded zones for the planters will make a big difference once summer heat sets in.
It's nice that the drainage already feeds into your pond, which gives you a head start on water management! Little by little, you'll turn that concrete into a really productive space.

It really does look a lot like Chlorophyllum molybdites from the photos,  and that species alone has sent plenty of people to the hospital with the exact symptoms you describe. The green gills are a strong clue, but, as others said, a few Lepiota species can look similar in the early stages.
Some toxins take time to cause internal damage before symptoms return.