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Biodynamics on a ranch

 
Posts: 109
Location: Central Texas
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Does anyone have any experience with the biodynamic preparations applied on large scale?

The Josephine Porter Institute sells a Field spray that contains all the preparations. The problem is it's $24 and good for one acre. I'm looking to do something with several hundred acres. Does anyone have any info for this scale of biodynamics?
 
Posts: 77
Location: Eastern Shore of Virginia, USA, Zone 7b, KeB Bojac Sandy Loam
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Maybe you can look up Australian biodynamic farms? They are often massive by our standards.

Maybe Alex Podolinsky's efforts would help you? He managed thousands of acres biodynamically: http://www.ifoam.org/growing_organic/definitions/pioneers/alex_podolinsky.php

or:

http://www.demeter.org.au/what.html

Biodynamic farms can be very small.

Obviously, the cheapest way would be to make your own BD500. I do not make my own, but I do not have a ranch. If you already have cattle and manure, it would be better to do it yourself.

The Pfeiffer Field Spray is basically microbe food - it just feeds the bottom of the food chain. Bacteria have the highest protein by weight of any organism in the soil: provide them food, and they show up... then earthworms, and your soil begins healing itself.

I expect if you simply composted your weeds, manure, etc. and used the finished compost as a diluted "compost tea" this would suffice. An orthodox biodynamic farmer might disagree with me, but you have to make do with what you have. And a shared principle in biodynamics and permaculture is: creating fertility from what you already have.

Check out E. Pfeiffer's "Soil Fertility, Restoration & Preservation" (free .pdf here: http://www.soilandhealth.org/01aglibrary/01aglibwelcome.html)

I know a number of these farmer-thinkers would use extremely dilute homeopathic forms of these preps with apparently good results. Think again in terms of microbe food: you don't need much to jumpstart the process.

The BD500 spray, from what I can tell can benefit from spraying both when the Moon is "descending" (during what Maria Thun calls the "transplant time") AND in the very late afternoon. The logic is: you want it to soak into the soil, not evaporate; the moon, when "descending" is supposedly pulling water down into the soil.

I hope that helps. This is what I've extracted from much reading.
 
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