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grow and fruiting chamber

Posts: 59
Location: N.W. Arizona
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Oysters on teepee paper worked good but as Franken' noted the fruit was small and not a lot.  But it got me going.  I just pasturized three large paper feed bags at 160 deg. F and inocculated them from the same grain spawn and put them in the grow bags that came with the teepee kit.  I put the bags in a grow chamber made of a storage tub with water, hydrogro and an aquarium heater set for 70 deg. F.
To prevent breathing the oyster spoor I am making a grow closet to house the inoculation and fruiting tubs.  I removed a clothes dryer that we did not use and am closing in that space to serve.  It will have a filtered air inlet, and an outside air exhaust, using a funace filter and the old dryer vent and perhaps a fan if required.  I will use a cool mist humidifier and a shotgun fruiting chamber.  It is very dry here in the Mohave desert.  The closet walls and overhead will have 1.5 in. styrofoam insulation and visquine to channel condensation to tubs on the floor.  The top, warmer shelf, will hold up to two 64 qt. grow tubs and the bottom will hold two 64 qt fruiting chambers with the coolmist.  A flourecent lamp in each fruit chamber on a timer will give fruiting light.
Any thoughts, recommendations or comments?
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It sounds like you've pretty much got it thought out.

Don't bother with the aquarium heater unless there is a danger of extended periods of sub-freezing temperatures. Oyster Mushrooms will grow well at temperatures as low as 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Warmer temperatures of 70 degrees F or above will promote the growth of mold and other contaminants.  Mushrooms grow more slowly at cooler temperatures but this leads to a better taste and texture. I have found 60 degrees F to be optimum for most oysters (this varies by strain and species) but I have had acceptable results from 50 to 80 degrees F.

What you will want to do is keep your eyes open and make little tweaks based on what you observe. Getting the air circulation correct is always quite tricky and I've found small fans to be quite helpful in that regard. Moving a small fan just a couple of inches in one direction or the other can often make a great deal of of difference.

You might want to use a cheap $5.00 cigar-store hygrometer (recalibrated for 99% RH) to monitor your Relative Humidity. Mine rusted out over the course of a year but I haven't bothered to replace it - now I judge humidity based on condensation, the "feel" of the air and on the appearance of the mycelium/mushrooms - eventually you can learn to tell when it is looking thirsty or when it is looking too saturated with moisture.
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