Leonard Barrett

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since Jan 15, 2012
Designer and educator specializing in permaculture and regenerative design.
Portland, OR
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Recent posts by Leonard Barrett

Early Early Bird pricing has expired, but regular Early Bird pricing is good through the end of July! If you have any questions about this course, please feel free to contact courses [at] pdxpermaculture.com

Thanks and best!

6 years ago
Just a quick update, the early early bird rate expires at the end of this month, and we expect registration to be picking up soon!

Cheers,

LB
6 years ago
Full info and regirstation @ http://pdxpermaculture.com



Basic surveying and layout are essential skillsets for every farmer, homesteader, designer, and consultant. In this six-day course (Sept. 8-13), Tom Ward teaches the use of many types of analog (non-battery operated) surveying tools, along with advanced skills in keyline, pond and swale layout, mapping skills, and other core competencies for design and execution of permaculture projects.

Students will become familiar with swale, terrace, ditch and pond layout, profile cross-section drawing, keyline and trail system locating, solar assessment, ditch and wiggle water way layout, small cabin orientation and pad layout, staking, note taking, and compass and map reading. We will use telescope-like devices and other hand tools such as sight levels, pocket transits, builders levels, A-frames and various vertical measurement rods, as well as measuring tapes and wheels. The course will include flagging for trails, swales and ponds, as well as observations on the landscape with mapping of topographic, ecological, and cultural data.

The 72-Hour Permaculture Design Course is a prerequisite for getting an advanced certificate from this course. Others may have the certificate held until they have a PDC certificate. You must complete all six days of the course to get your certificate. The course is open to all who have a working knowledge of Permaculture.

Course Details

When: September 8-13, 2012

Where: Atlan Center, White Salmon, WA (More about venue below)

Course Fees

A deposit of $250.00 is due with registration. At time of registration, you can indicate when you will be ready to pay the remaining balance. Remaining balance required to secure early bird pricing will be due by the following dates:

Early Early Bird (Before 7/1): $895.00

Early Bird (Before 8/1): $995.00

Full Price (After 8/1): $1195.00
6 years ago

John Polk Wrote: From my info, Cercocarpus montanus is deciduous, not evergreen.



John, I'm fairly certain that Cercocarpus montanus would be evergreen in a climate "with 3 days below freezing last year surprising everybody." It has an enormous range (much of the US west of the Mississippi, minus the plains), and if you consult the literature, you'll notice that its deciduous/evergreen status runs the gamut, generally correlating with the climate that the source is from.

And a few references showing that variability:

http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/ornamentals/natives/cercocarpusmontanusvar.ar.htm (A source from Texas calling it "Evergreen")
http://extension.usu.edu/range/Woody/birchleafmahog.htm (From Utah, "Deciduous")
http://www.lawyernursery.com/productinfo.aspx?productSpecies=Cercocarpus%20montanus&categoryid=4 (Montana, "Semi-Evergreen")

So I don't really think we're disagreeing here, but I just wanted to speak up to say that this is a plant that behaves differently over it's broad range. A reminder that it's really important to check our regional assumptions/experiences at the door with all of these great inter-regional and even inter-continental conversations going on on this site!

Cheers,

LB
7 years ago
Cercocarpus montanus...which I believe is native in some parts of Texas. Evergreen, nitrogen fixing...drought tolerant...grows to 12'+...slowwwwly.

For pine species P. edulis (Colorado Piñon), P. sabiniana (Gray Pine), P. cembroides (Mexican Piñon)...several others...

Depending on your rainfall ("central texas" is a tough descriptor to work off of, given the size of the state and huge drop-off in precipitation as you move west), you may be able to do Elaeagnus x ebbingei or Elaeagnus pungens (Silverberry).

I'd bet someone from your bioregion would have a bunch of other ideas too!
7 years ago
Conveniently, the specific bacteria associated with lupine is named Rhizobium lupini. I googled around for cheaper source, and like you, didn't find much.

I'd second the idea of finding some native lupin in your area, although instead of interplanting, you could just remove a small amount of topsoil around the plants, and incorporate that into the soil you will be seeding into. You should get plenty of the rhizobia that way.

Good luck!
7 years ago
Craig, I don't think this has already been mentioned, but forgive me if it has. You can also top-work them, i.e. cut them back to a stump, let new suckers coppice back, and graft or bud (budding often more common with stone fruit) onto those....see the links below for more info.


http://apps.rhs.org.uk/advicesearch/Profile.aspx?pid=400

http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/components/dg0532c.html

Some potentially helpful (but possibly just more confusing) discussion: http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/fruit/msg011538543617.html
7 years ago
Doesn't apply to everyone here, but for those with a business tax ID, you can get wholesale prices at the following companies. Hida tends to specialize in smaller japanese hand tools, like kamas and hori horis, and other nice japanese woodworking tools as well...definitely worth perusing... Terrabonne has a much wider selection of gardening tools, including those that you mentioned. If you have a business tax id number, even if your business is completely unrelated to gardening, you can probably get a wholesale account.

http://www.terrebonnelimited.com/
http://www.hidatool.com/shop/shop.html
7 years ago
Knowing where you live would be helpful.

So you're probably wanting something evergreen...ya?

If it's a pretty mild temperate climate....say zone 8 or up, Feijoa could work...although if you're in the zone 8 realm, ain't gonna grow that tall very fast, if you're warmer...could be good.

Bamboo (try Phyllostachys, Pseudosasa, or Fargesia genuses) might be one of your best bets. www.bamboogarden.com is a great resource for temperate climate bamboos.

Silverberry (Elaeagnus pungens or Elaeagnus x ebbingei).

Ceanothus thrysiflorus is a good nitrogen fixer, tea plant, and nectary.

There are a ton more...write back with where you live...

Cheers!

7 years ago
This also gets down to a level of distinction and discernment that would be so much better examined through long-term documentation and monitoring, which the Pc movement is more than a little deficient in. Hopefully in a decade's time we'll have some better data, or at least stories, to support the effectiveness of these different methods.
7 years ago