Allen Bear

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since May 23, 2012
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Recent posts by Allen Bear

4 years! My extrainsulation works fine, fridge saves money and CO2. I am happy. You should try it
10 years ago
Now the fridge ist running 3 years since i did insulate it ! And still no worries, just working decently!

http://coolfridge.blogspot.de/


Greetings. Allen
11 years ago

Angelika Maier wrote:Would it work even with a fairly modern fridge?

I think it would. You have to find out where the condenser and the evaporators are. I dont know much about that. You might have a look here: Make your fridge green
11 years ago
Hi Angelika, i did insulate the back of the fridge. But of course its tricky, cause at the back my fridge has the condenser where it wants to get rid off the heat. So i insulated the fridge underneath the condenser. To make sure that enough air is floating around the condenser i reinstalled it a bit further away from the fridge by using longer screws.

Cj Verde. Dont worry about the oven not far from the fridge. The sidewalls dont get even slightly warm when the oven is in use. The reason for that is that the sidewall is triple-walled an a fan blows the heat to the frontside and away.

David, how is your upright freezer doing? Did you measure the energy consumption??

Greetings to all! Allen

11 years ago
2 years are gone and my self-insulated fridge is running without issues. The extra layer of insulation still reduces power consumption down to 50% which makes that old fridge label A+! For details have a look here:

Insulate your fridge

Feel free to comment.

Allen
12 years ago
Just an update: After two years my self-insulated fridge is running nicely at very low power consumption. Now the fridge is 20 years old but it can compete with a modern A+ fridge. Details you find at my blog: http://coolfridge.blogspot.de/

Did anybody try something similar in between?

Have a nice day. Allen.
12 years ago
Thanks for your answers Steve. The efficiency rate at the store is measured without opening the doors at all i guess. At least the european union is measuring it like that. That means if a freezer is better than another it is because it is better insulated and has more efficient compressor and so on. Door-openings dont count.
Do i get that right that you calculated to pay 12dollars annually for the power consumption of your fridge? Given the price of .105 dollar per kWh it would mean 114kWh per year which is slightly less than my fridge if one is presuming the same room temperature. These numbers dont tell us that chest fridge is better 75% bmore efficient than an upright fridge.

Definately air flows outside of an upright fridge when the door is opened. But like in flats: if you open all windows fully and wind is blowing through your flat and than you close all windows after 3 minutes the rooms will be fast warm again cause walls and furniture do keep most of the heat and air does only have little heat. I read once that in a flat air has less than 30% of the warmth but i cant find these numbers again.

As soon i get back my power meter from a friend i will do the experiment i did suggest further up on this page. With that experiment we can understand better how much door opening does do to an upright fridge. Since you got a chest fridge, maybe you do exactly the same experiment with it, so you see what impact it has on your chest fridge. You need a power meter though . Its worth buying one anyway, cause it helps you to understand which device takes how much energy in your household, which in turn helps you reducing your energy bill. We went down to 500kWh per year for the whole flat by some easy measurements in our flat (mark that heating and warm water comes from a gas driven heating for the whole house and is not counted in these 500kWh/year).
12 years ago
To have some joy I suggest an experiment for anybody here to prove or disprove the theory: Opening the door in upright fridges or freezers results in a relevant loss of efficiency.
The experiment will be done like that: room temperature where the fridge or freezer is standing should be permanently meausured to be sure that it is stable. 1. The power consumption of the fridge/freezer will be measured WITHOUT opening of the doors at all over at least 24 hours. This can be done maybe when nobody is home for a day or weekend. 2. The power consumption will be measured WITH opening the doors whenever you use your fridge over at least 24 hours. The number of openings should be counted with a line-list to make sure it is not unrealistically high. Each opening should be short as it is recommended (and not 1 hour long openings lol Idealistic would be to measure how long the door openings are but maybe that is a bit complicated.

It will be calculated how much the fridge / freezer did consume over 24 hours in both cases to see how much difference there might be.

Anybody who will do this experiment might post its results here to make us more knowledgable!

Thank you!

Allen
12 years ago
I know the discussion about the chest type and upright type fridge or freezer. In my opinion the effect is largely overestimated, i never saw measured datas. You are talking about 75% less efficiency? Where did you take these numbers from? If you check the different models there is not much difference between that types, see here as an example Liebherr: http://www.liebherr.com/HG/de-DE/region-DE/products_hg.wfw/id-565538-0_37229-0 and http://www.liebherr.com/HG/de-DE/region-DE/products_hg.wfw/id-565536-0_28901-0. Of course the measurements of the producer dont involve door-openings. Opening the door maybe 10 times a day cant make much difference, especially if the freezer has closed drawers as you can see it at the pic of Liebherr-homepage cause here the air stays trapped in the drawer even if the door is open. In addition to that most of the cold is "stored" not in air (which is fast cooled down again) but in the walls of the fridge and in the food and drinks you have got in the fridge. The comfort of upright fridges justifies the minimal loss in efficiency in my opinion.

Now i understand how you dealt with the thermostat. Sounds good. How much the fridge does consume over 24 hours?

Allen
12 years ago
Hi Steve, that is a nice solution you have done. I am still dreaming of something similar. I was thinking of a stand-up freezer preferably from Liebherr and to install a thermostat of a normal fridge inside. That way i would have a super efficient fridge. I calculated that it would consume maybe 30kWh a year which means 1/3 of that what the best fridge on the market takes. You took an external thermostat? Why not internal? Did you measure the temperature inside? Did you measure the powerconsumption per day?

You are right that there are some things to mind when you do your insulation yourself. One is that you mentioned: you need to know where the condensor is cause it needs to stay clear. I go a bit more into the details here: http://coolfridge.blogspot.de/2011/12/pimp-your-fridge.html

Greetings from Allen!
12 years ago