Chris Kott wrote:I don't think there's anything specifically not green about being buried in a box, as long as that box itself is sustainably made.
I would personally want the casket inoculated with relevant fungal spore, and I have been toying for a while about burial garments containing seed of different kinds.
I think that the concrete vault thing is a real downer.
One approach that I haven't seen mentioned anywhere is encouraged natural decomposition by insects. I must admit that this is the option that appeals least to me on an aesthetic level, basically a bioreactor of decompositional macrobiota into which a body is placed. I don't know why it gives me the existential willies, as it's just an accelerated version of what happens when a body is buried within the biologically active layers of soil, but I figured I would bring it up.
Hell, a really permie approach would be to do the bioreactor approach, or the shallow natural burial approach, and have chickens penned in a toroidal paddock with the decomposing body in the doughnut hole under a layer of healthy soil. Bugs eat body, chickens eat bugs, humans eat eggs and eventually chickens too. Or, for those to whom reincarnation appeals, what about the idea of having a rooster and a bunch of broody hens in the doughnut paddock, with all of the eggs laid being fertilised by the rooster and raised for eggs or meat?
If I were truly concerned about the pathogenicity of dead bodies, I would personally favour the bioreactor or shallow living soil grave over concrete entombment. I mean, it probably gets the job done, but cycling biomass through the digestive tracts of multiple unrelated species in a soil environment without room in the soil biome for pathogens to take hold sounds like a more certain path than sequestering everything away where it's of no use to anyone.
I am glad people are talking about this subject in a permacultural context. I think modern burial processes, that basically turn bodies into subterranean soap cakes, are one of the great wastes of the day. I don't think for a minute that reverence for the remains of the deceased should be lessened, but I think that I prefer the idea of living monuments in the form of trees and living plants, and the cycling of nutrient and mineral resources into the soil and the environment.
-CK
Eric Hanson wrote:Wow! You really do have some serious challenges in trying to put in a garden. It seems like you are short of almost everything you need, but money, water and physical strength seem to be the most serious. Do I have that about right?
But it seems to me that you do have at least some water. Also, you have some straw. Can you get more straw if you need to? My personal suggestion (take or leave as you see fit) is to start small and grow a few veggies that are your favorite and have moderate water needs. Actually tomatoes are not a bad start. They don’t need as much water as they appear and just love the heat and sun. Could you plant some and then mulch heavily with straw to really cut down on evaporation? Though I don’t have anywhere near your evaporation rate, I do have hot summers and having a good layer of mulch made the difference between healthy, living soil and hard sun-baked clay.
I now make a good layer of mulch a standard part of my garden now and it makes an enormous difference. Water is still necessary, but now a little bit of water goes a very long way.
This is just an idea and maybe it could be helpful.
Eric
Abe Coley wrote:Four shipping pallets stood up on end in a square configuration and tied in the corners will create shade, disrupt the wind, and keep the deer off. I have used these to successfully plant out small fruit trees with no irrigation in an area that receives ~12 inches rain per year with super hot dry summers. Versus seedlings that didn't have a "pallet protector", the ones planted in the pallets are now 3 feet tall whereas the others are only 1 foot. A little bit of shade and wind blocking makes a huge difference.
Michelle Heath wrote:$1000! Yikes, that's $1 a gallon, which is what we'd pay in the store here for a gallon of drinking water. I'm guessing the high cost is because of being in the desert. I'm sure making several trips to fill the 50 gallon containers wouldn't be feasible either.
Do you have electricity? Hydroponics may be your best bet though there would be some start-up costs for the system. Unfortunately that's something that I have absolutely no knowledge of but I'm sure someone here does.
Michelle Heath wrote:
Itybt Fox wrote:
oh, so i could build a high tunnel, with straw bales, covered in clay for maybe 4 feet tall? and then add a greenhouse top, with hoops? and then plant inside? The only challenge the wind has it to dry the plantings out. but the sun does that too of course. Keeping plastic covering i would have to invest in uv protected panels or plastic, i couldn afford to replace the sheeting in a couple months when it got hard and started falling apart.
thank you.
I've been looking into UV sheeting for a 10 x 12 greenhouse and think I can reasonably cover it for $150. Given your climate, I'm not sure if the sheeting would last as many years but hopefully someone will have some insight on that.
Again, not familiar with your climate, but would the possibility of growing in a pit greenhouse and utilizing a shade cover when it's extremely hot make it possible to grow vegetables? Of course water and mulch will be necessities. Do you still have the cracked 250 gallon cistern? I know there are products for repairing plastics that are food safe, so that may be an option. Would you be able to pay someone to bring enough water to fill the larger cistern on your property?
Ellendra Nauriel wrote:I'm wondering if a fog net or fog harp would work on your land? It would need protected from the wind, but it would harvest moisture out of the air without the need for electricity.
Clayton High wrote:The first thing I would look for is how to grow a wind block. You need drought tolerant, fast growing trees. Osage orange comes to mind, I'm sure there's other. That wind break will prevent the wind from drying out your soil so much.
Mulch is going to be the other big factor, also protecting the soil and preventing it from drying out.
Vegetables are going to be... tricky. Most drought tolerant plants are perennial, and most vegetables are annual
I would look into sunchokes, they're quite hardy and drought tolerant once they get going. They would also grow tall and serve as a wind block. To get them started, mulch is your friend, and maybe some additional water if you can spare it. Not everyone likes eating sunchokes though, maybe try one before you plant too many.
Alternatively, you could plant a perennial food crop. I'm guessing you don't want to wait around for trees to mature, so maybe a bush or a vine? Perhaps you could grow lots of grapes and trade them to the neighbors for some veggies. Hazelnuts would be another good option, you could buy seedlings that would likely produce nuts in a year or two (but they would likely need water to get established)