Tereza Okava wrote:you are talking about wind, so i think it probably would help more to know what kind of climate, soils, and region you're dealing with. Plus what you would prefer! You have a lot of space to try different things! Then maybe people can recommend what you might plant in your area without irrigation.
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'Theoretically this level of creeping Orwellian dynamics should ramp up our awareness, but what happens instead is that each alert becomes less and less effective because we're incredibly stupid.' - Jerry Holkins
Tereza Okava wrote:We've got some people here in similar dry and windy places, hopefully someone can give you some good ideas about planting in structures that can help hold water in when you add it. Maybe water catchment/storage too, for when there is rain.
Do you have any organic matter that can act as mulch and hold in the water when you water the plants? Access to moldy hay or some sort of shredded brush from neighbors, stable waste, tree leaves, etc? The more of that stuff you have, the longer your water lasts.
John F Dean wrote:I am thinking a small high tunnel... maybe 6 x 8 feet. It would allow for a couple of raised beds and wind protection. It would also reduce water loss ( I have had it "rain" inside my high tunnel). I would aim for a crop in early spring and fall. I am sure you will get lots of ideas.
D Nikolls wrote:Junk.
Like, anything that isn't toxic, that you can grab for free or better yet get paid to haul away.
Start making some shade and windbreaks.
Would earthworks be better? Ya, if you can find a way to do them for free!
Invasive plants are Earth's way of insisting we notice her medicines. Stephen Herrod Buhner
Everyone learns what works by learning what doesn't work. Stephen Herrod Buhner
You can see with only one eye open, but you'll probably run into things and stub your toe. The big picture matters.
Sarah Koster wrote:Since it's dry, I don't think mold is going to be a problem. I watched a video yesterday where people used rocks as mulch to help provide shade and reduce erosion from wind. Just dotting the ground with whatever rocks are small enough for you to move, or making rows of rocks around the tree, perpendicular to the sunlight, or perpendicular to the wind, might help a bit. If there is enough moisture in the air, the rocks will collect dew at night. You could build a little wall of rocks around a small area to use as a garden. You could maybe excavate a pit to garden in, but I think that would be too physically difficult. Asphalt is a bit toxic I think, so I would use the other stones first.
Anne Miller wrote:If this was my property, I would look at what is already growing there. That is what I have done with our current property.
What is edible that could be cultivated?
This list:
https://idahonativeplants.org/boise-area-native-plants/
I am not familiar with these plants though it has serviceberry, chokecherry, Oregon grape, squaw apple, golden currant, and several others that might be edible.
Also look for drought-resistant perennial vegetables.
At my age, Happy Hour is a nap.
John F Dean wrote:For high tunnel, think in terms of greenhouse covered in 6 mil plastic. What you describe would have some benefit in terms of protection from wind, cold, heat, etc.
Invasive plants are Earth's way of insisting we notice her medicines. Stephen Herrod Buhner
Everyone learns what works by learning what doesn't work. Stephen Herrod Buhner
Marc Dube wrote:I have limited water on my property too and haul all our usable water. I tried for a couple years to plants straight into the ground but it would dry out like dust and even watering once a week which is all I could manage did very little for the plants. My solution has been self watering containers i use IBC totes and barrels both cut in half.
With these i only have to fill them with water about once a month during the summer and I know almost all of the water is being utilized by the plants I desire.
Clayton High wrote:The first thing I would look for is how to grow a wind block. You need drought tolerant, fast growing trees. Osage orange comes to mind, I'm sure there's other. That wind break will prevent the wind from drying out your soil so much.
Mulch is going to be the other big factor, also protecting the soil and preventing it from drying out.
Vegetables are going to be... tricky. Most drought tolerant plants are perennial, and most vegetables are annual
I would look into sunchokes, they're quite hardy and drought tolerant once they get going. They would also grow tall and serve as a wind block. To get them started, mulch is your friend, and maybe some additional water if you can spare it. Not everyone likes eating sunchokes though, maybe try one before you plant too many.
Alternatively, you could plant a perennial food crop. I'm guessing you don't want to wait around for trees to mature, so maybe a bush or a vine? Perhaps you could grow lots of grapes and trade them to the neighbors for some veggies. Hazelnuts would be another good option, you could buy seedlings that would likely produce nuts in a year or two (but they would likely need water to get established)
Lorinne Anderson: Specializing in sick, injured, orphaned and problem wildlife for over 20 years.
Itybt Fox wrote:
D Nikolls wrote:Junk.
Like, anything that isn't toxic, that you can grab for free or better yet get paid to haul away.
Start making some shade and windbreaks.
Would earthworks be better? Ya, if you can find a way to do them for free!
Yes, however i am too old to move the material needed to create those dirt/lumber/whaterver/ windbreaks. Im not lift more than 5 pounds, lol too funny. I had thought to hire a dozer and have them just dig up dirt and move it into tall piles around me, creating shelter. I have not priced that out, but yes would be nice. I dont know how tall or the appropriate places to put them. I do have a dump load of river rocks from a belly truck? they gave them to me for just the cost of the gas, they wanted to get rid of them. My land is pretty much rock free, the is a little lava here and there, but not like in some areas where its solid. and they are small pieces.
I can get laval rock delivered, i have some broken road i got for free too, was going to use as the foundation for my straw bale barn. never got finished, Id build the walls up go to work and come home to find them on the ground. i gave up , i believe someone was knocking them over when i was gone. They were stacked and ready for the mud. My neighbors were not friendly and even stole my out building while i was at work one day, they left the roof for another day and took all the walls. it was a metal building from a kit? 16 x i dont rem now, quit large. nice, sorry i digress again!
I cant build a pond, there isnt enough rainfall here for one. I have some rights to irrigate 1/4 acre but it requires a well, which is 20k i dont have. The water was supposed to be only 50 feet down and 100 for cleaner, but when it came time to put it in its 300 ft down. so .. yeah.
Lorinne said They dug shallow square pits a foot or two deep, 2-3 feet square, with 12 inch wide sides, surrounding each "pit". This served multiple purposes: protected from wind, contained/collect water, depth created insulation for protection from heat and cold. They did this in a grid, so 4-8 pits in each row, with 4-8 rows.
Invasive plants are Earth's way of insisting we notice her medicines. Stephen Herrod Buhner
Everyone learns what works by learning what doesn't work. Stephen Herrod Buhner
Ellendra Nauriel wrote:I'm wondering if a fog net or fog harp would work on your land? It would need protected from the wind, but it would harvest moisture out of the air without the need for electricity.
Itybt Fox wrote:
oh, so i could build a high tunnel, with straw bales, covered in clay for maybe 4 feet tall? and then add a greenhouse top, with hoops? and then plant inside? The only challenge the wind has it to dry the plantings out. but the sun does that too of course. Keeping plastic covering i would have to invest in uv protected panels or plastic, i couldn afford to replace the sheeting in a couple months when it got hard and started falling apart.
thank you.
Forever creating a permaculture paradise!
Michelle Heath wrote:
Itybt Fox wrote:
oh, so i could build a high tunnel, with straw bales, covered in clay for maybe 4 feet tall? and then add a greenhouse top, with hoops? and then plant inside? The only challenge the wind has it to dry the plantings out. but the sun does that too of course. Keeping plastic covering i would have to invest in uv protected panels or plastic, i couldn afford to replace the sheeting in a couple months when it got hard and started falling apart.
thank you.
I've been looking into UV sheeting for a 10 x 12 greenhouse and think I can reasonably cover it for $150. Given your climate, I'm not sure if the sheeting would last as many years but hopefully someone will have some insight on that.
Again, not familiar with your climate, but would the possibility of growing in a pit greenhouse and utilizing a shade cover when it's extremely hot make it possible to grow vegetables? Of course water and mulch will be necessities. Do you still have the cracked 250 gallon cistern? I know there are products for repairing plastics that are food safe, so that may be an option. Would you be able to pay someone to bring enough water to fill the larger cistern on your property?
Forever creating a permaculture paradise!
Michelle Heath wrote:$1000! Yikes, that's $1 a gallon, which is what we'd pay in the store here for a gallon of drinking water. I'm guessing the high cost is because of being in the desert. I'm sure making several trips to fill the 50 gallon containers wouldn't be feasible either.
Do you have electricity? Hydroponics may be your best bet though there would be some start-up costs for the system. Unfortunately that's something that I have absolutely no knowledge of but I'm sure someone here does.
Some places need to be wild
My tree nursery: https://mountaintimefarm.com/
Abe Coley wrote:Four shipping pallets stood up on end in a square configuration and tied in the corners will create shade, disrupt the wind, and keep the deer off. I have used these to successfully plant out small fruit trees with no irrigation in an area that receives ~12 inches rain per year with super hot dry summers. Versus seedlings that didn't have a "pallet protector", the ones planted in the pallets are now 3 feet tall whereas the others are only 1 foot. A little bit of shade and wind blocking makes a huge difference.
Eric Hanson wrote:Wow! You really do have some serious challenges in trying to put in a garden. It seems like you are short of almost everything you need, but money, water and physical strength seem to be the most serious. Do I have that about right?
But it seems to me that you do have at least some water. Also, you have some straw. Can you get more straw if you need to? My personal suggestion (take or leave as you see fit) is to start small and grow a few veggies that are your favorite and have moderate water needs. Actually tomatoes are not a bad start. They don’t need as much water as they appear and just love the heat and sun. Could you plant some and then mulch heavily with straw to really cut down on evaporation? Though I don’t have anywhere near your evaporation rate, I do have hot summers and having a good layer of mulch made the difference between healthy, living soil and hard sun-baked clay.
I now make a good layer of mulch a standard part of my garden now and it makes an enormous difference. Water is still necessary, but now a little bit of water goes a very long way.
This is just an idea and maybe it could be helpful.
Eric
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