Cam Haslehurst wrote:So tonight I attempted the make a center punch
In shop when I was in school all of the projects was to make a cold chissle out of a piece of rolled steel, shape and harden the cutting surface, the grade was pass or fail, when you finished our teacher would take a nail and lay it on the anvil and then use your new chisle to cut it in half, if it cut the nail without damaging the chisle edge you passed, if it made any indention in the edge you failed and started over. one fella had hardened to far up the shaft of the chisle and when the nail was cut it also broke the chistle. The reason your punch is not hardened all the way to the end is it would be like that one fellas and brake, the softer steel alows it to absorbe energy both when being hit and the equal reaction from the object being cut.
we hardened the edge by cooling it in used motor oul after heating it.
K Eilander wrote:Saw this and it seems like a useful trick.
Apparently they make welding filler rod made of high-strength tool steel!
this has been around a while, we used to take the valves out of a water pump on a water well drilling rig and build them up like this and then have them machined back down so they would seal up propperly.
they had to be hard surfaced like this because these pumps carried a lot of sandy muddy water through them and wore down if not a hard surface.
This was definantly worth letting folks know about for sure!
Anne Miller wrote:Clifford, what are your plans for those slabs?
They look very think so maybe benches? They look to think for tabletops and other things I can think of.
Or do you plan to make lots of smaller boards?
Those slabs are seriously beautiful!
Joshua States wrote:In the knife-making world, we call that a serious score. Nice heartwood walnut like that makes excellent handle material. How thick are the slabs?
Mike Haasl wrote:Hi Clifford, I don't think I hit water but I'm not sure why water was disappearing down the pipe. I tried some other spots without success so I've kinda given up on the sand point...
Mike Haasl wrote:Hello friends! I am putting in a sand point well, I think I've hit water but I can't pump it up with a pitcher pump.
Background: 1.25" driven well with a 3' sand point on the bottom. No foot valve down in the casing. I augured a hole about 10' and then assembled the point and started driving it deeper. I'm currently 17' into the ground with 1' of casing sticking out. There is water in the pipe The water level is 12' down and 6' from there to the end of the point. So that seems to be a good sign.
I took a bucket of clean house water and poured it down the pipe to see if I could fill up the pipe. It disappeared as fast as I could pour it in. I think that's a really good sign.
I bolted on a relatively new pitcher pump and poured water in the top of it and started pumping. After a while it feels like most of the handle's travel is just creating a vacuum. When I lift the handle (lowering the piston), at the very end of the travel it feels like the vacuum is done and I made a tiny bit of progress. But after pumping and pumping, eventually the vacuum feeling doesn't go away and it just seems like I'm creating a vacuum and then releasing in as I raise the handle.
I disassembled the pump and the cup leather looks good, the flapper looks good, the jiggly weight at the bottom of the piston is jiggling well and seems to be sealing well.
It seems like if I can pour 2 gallons of water into a pipe and it soaks in as fast as I can pour, I've hit water. Why can't I suck it up 12' with a pitcher pump?
Do I have a crappy pitcher pump? Am I priming it wrong? Any suggestions?
Once I am pumping water, I'll drive it down another 18" so the fitting is at a convenient height. Hopefully that will only make things better for the water supply.