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kadence blevins

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since Dec 01, 2012
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SE Ohio
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Recent posts by kadence blevins

See my older thread on guinea pigs for meat. I'd say if you are considering it firstly, get two cheap locally and feed them a while, see if you can butcher them yourself. It might sound silly but not everyone can care for an animal then kill it and eat it. Secondly, this will tell you if you like the meat and want to bother with it. They don't have a lot of meat on them.
That said, if you are in an urban situation and larger animals isn't feasible then I could see the guinea pigs being a good fit. If you like the meat. Don't sink money and time into a whole group and a year of breeding to find out. Trust me on that part haha.
If you have an area or raised beds you can grow forage to cut and feed as a supplement that would be ideal. You'd have to have a fair sized area and a small breeding group. You aren't going to compete with meat rabbits for meat production. They were lots of fun.
feel free to post on the other thread. I'll try to check back if you had any specific questions. I posted quite a lot in my thread.
1 week ago

Catherine Carney wrote:Thanks Kadence! I'm an hour northeast of Columbus. I'm hoping that my life will slow down a bit and I'll be able to find a guild and attend meetings.

Of course, I also have to land a day job, shear my sheep, spin up my backlog of fleeces, keep the raccoons from eating my show birds, etc. There's so much I want to do, but not enough hours to do it.

Gal after my own heart! haha sounds about like my life. I'll link the ones I know of..
3 weeks ago
Sew the cushion so that one end can be unbuttoned/zipped etc and if it's become flat you just pull it out and fluff it up, restuff it. If you're using loose fiber you can set up with a sheet on the floor and spread out the wool a bit, then take two thin canes and smack and fluff the wool. You could use two thin dowel rods. Then restuff and close the cushion.

If using wool batting you can card the wool and restuff it. If you buy from zeilingers ( they have where you can send in for recarding.
3 weeks ago

Catherine Carney wrote:There's nobody in my community to teach either, but I've found a couple of really useful books: The Joy of Handweaving and The Weaving Primer that have gotten me started. I'm sure there are more out there, and probably youtube tutorials and such (love the internet for stuff like this).

Not to mention people on sites like this!

What part of the state are you in? I'm in a spinners and weavers guild, really we have a lot of people and every craft someone has dabbled in or is a pro. I know of some other guilds in other parts of the state. Feel free to purple moosage me.
3 weeks ago
Just wanted to put it out there that there are many people on etsy or with their own websites who have sock knitting machines (ye old hand crank) that will make socks to the size and height you want. Some dye their own yarn and offer it in their yarns. Some only crank socks and if you buy sock yarn you can mail it to them and they'll crank the socks.
3 weeks ago
Circle R Lamb

Skeins of yarn, cones of yarn, raw wool, roving, pillows, dryer balls, batting for blankets and bed covers. Items at the bottom. Wooligan, open shawl style vest. Scarf, shawl, socks, insoles. Sheep/lamb skins.
3 weeks ago
Working more plans for my hogs and land clearing for silvopasture. Most of the trees here are black walnut. I'm wondering how sunchokes will fare being planted in the thinned out black walnut silvopasture.
1 month ago
you could probably get cotton rags to line the window. they'd soak up any moisture and you can swap out easily.

I understand going with wool batting and fabric for mold potential, but going with cotton fabric would be cheaper.

I have some sheep friends who have had batting made for quilting. They send their wool to Zeilingers for processing. this is the sales page for quilt batting, listed by size and you can get it without the cheesecloth liner if you ask. It also shows estimate weights for the different sizes.
2 months ago
11.7.19 Ewes grazing in the hay field doing rotation with the electric netting.
2019 shearing, locks from some of the ewes fleeces.
2 months ago
Barber pole worm is the biggest parasite issue in general. It's going to be a problem most places.
Haemonchus Contortus, barber pole worm- "Females may lay over 10,000 eggs a day, which pass from the host animal in the faeces. After hatching from their eggs, H. contortus larvae molt several times, resulting in an L3 form that is infectious for the animals. The host ingests these larvae when grazing. The L4 larvae, formed after another molt, and adult worms suck blood in the abomasum of the animal, potentially giving rise to anaemia and oedema, which eventually can lead to death" Wikipedia
"In general, the life cycle for H. contortus developing from an egg to a mature and reproductive adult can take simply 21 days under ideal conditions and let me tell you, this year may not have been ideal for crops, but it certainly has been ideal for the reproductive cycle of parasites. In addition, adult H. contortus females have the ability to lay 5,000 – 10,000 eggs per day!" "parasite development is slow during spring, fall, and winter conditions, but survival is lengthy. As drying out becomes less of an issue during these periods, the L3 larvae are able to cope in these conditions and survive for a longer period of time. In areas with moderate to low temperatures, parasitic larvae are able to survive on pasture for up to a year, but in general most survive for 2-6 months"

"The stomach worms usually of secondary importance are Trichostrongylus spp. and Teladorsagia (Ostertagia). Their importance is usually as an additive effect in mixed infections with Haemonchus. However, in warmer sub-tropical areas, Trichostrongylus spp. are important pathogens in grazing ruminants. Teladorsagia  appears to be much less important in the United States than in cooler parts of the world such as Northern Europe and the British Isles.
In the southern United States, Ostertagia circumcincta is of no real significance in small ruminants because the hot and often dry summers are hostile to the survival of its pre-parasitic stages In the western U.S. particularly the cooler, wetter, coastal areas of Washington, Oregon and Northern California, Teladorsagia is the dominant nematode of sheep (and goats).
Nematodirus is not usually a primary pathogen in ruminants in North America. However, Nematodirus battus does cause significant disease in lambs in Britain because of its unusual hatching requirements. Cooperia infections are usually secondary contributors to parasitic disease.
Meningeal Worm (Paralaphostrongylus tenius)
The meningeal (deer or brain) worm is an internal parasite of white tailed deer. The life cycle of the meningeal worm requires terrestrial snails or slugs as intermediate hosts. Sheep are unnatural, dead-end hosts for the parasite. When sheep ingest snails containing infective larvae, the parasite moves into the brain and/or spinal cord causing often fatal neurological disease."

I haven't done all that research about parasites for a while but as I recall, the longest life cycle given for parasites is 35 days long so the longer you can make your rotation past 35 days, the more parasites will have died off before the sheep are back on that piece of ground. And since you want to optimize how much you can raise on your land, you can rotate other animals (cows, pigs, chickens,..) which will be dead end hosts for the sheep parasites, and vise versa. So your rotation could be cows, 30 days later sheep, followed shortly with chickens, 30 days later cows, and on like that. So your cows won't be back for 60 days and the sheep are dead end hosts. The sheep won't be back for 60 days and the cows are dead end hosts. The chickens help spread manure and are also dead end host for both parasites. And you have raised three types of animals on the same land and optimized forage production. As the quoted stuff above, the life cycle is like a general idea because temperature and moisture amount affect how long each step of the life cycle happens, plus some will die off sooner and some will survive a lot longer.

If your're lambing or dealing with lambs at all then you have to learn about coccidiosis. Here is a good intro, and Here is another.

In 2019 between barber pole worms and coccidia I lost all my lambs. This year I'm hoping to put a lot of changes into place to beat both off. For coccidia a big one is that I'm going to add Deccox to the ewes feed for the 6wks before lambing. Sheep naturally carry it and during the end of pregnancy the ewes body will be shedding more of it through the poop. So where the ewes are during this time will have more. So the Deccox will help kill it off and I'm hoping to not have the sheep back into the now winter and lambing paddocks for a good while. My estimation is the first rotation will be 75 days rest, after the first one beating down some brush the second round will be quicker, estimating 54 days rest rotation.