Abe Connally wrote:I've done a lot with ferrocement, including vaults, domes, water tanks, buried homes, etc.
One thing I can tell you is that IT IS NOT WATERPROOF. That's right folks, it will leak, or at least, seap. But, depending on the water source, the leaking can actually cure itself, as minerals get deposited in the cracks/pores, and the leak eventually stops.
To make it completely water proof, you need a final coating of Thoroseal or just cement, water, and acrylic.
Very fine sand and/or fly ash helps with the waterproof issue.
Cold joins are the biggest problem with water tanks, you need to reduce them as much as possible.
solomon martin wrote:Here is a method that may be less labor intensive than a full stone or concrete foundation: build a series of masonry (stone) piers that will support your floor beams at 8 or 10ft. intervals. In between the piers, hang expanded metal lathe and coat with mortar to make a 1/2 inch thick ferrous cement "foundation" walls. You are still using cement, but only a fraction compared to a concrete stem wall. You can increase the insulation factor by applying cob or something to the interior of the ferrous cement.
John Elliott wrote:Compared to sea water, which is about 14,000 ppm, your 230 ppm doesn't look so bad. It would take a long time for sodium to build up at that rate. Which brings us to the important question -- how much evaporation do you have going on? Do you live in a desert (like Las Vegas) where this is the only water your trees will get? Where you have 4" of natural precipitation and upwards of 70" of evapotranspiration in a year? Then yes, that might be too much sodium.
But if you live in an area with more than 20" of rain a year, that's probably going to be enough natural flushing of the sodium from your well water that it won't be a problem.